Thanks Michael, I think I have successfully created a gallery and have placed the pdfs in it. However for the completeness of the thread, and easier discussion, I’m inserting the pics also.



I also enquired about your drill and was told it was already snaffled up :). In my case, I already had one of these units but thought a few spare parts wouldn’t do any harm. However, I’m pleased it’s gone to someone who will put it all back together.
Naturally I studied the pictures in the advert very closely. I was particularly interested in the spindle assembly though. Mine had been fitted with a large and ugly appendage to which was attached an even uglier and rattly LFA chuck. This appendage completely covered the spindle end cover (pt 46….LH thread by the way) which prevented disassembly. I couldn’t tell whether the appendage had been glued on or screwed, or if the latter, which way. In the end I had to mill slots in it in order to access the pin-spanner holes so that I could complete the dismantling.
The intention with my machine is to make it run successfully at its ‘plated’ max. of 18000RPM. Unfortunately, like you, I don’t have the pulleys for that so will have to make them. But spindle balance, runout and control of the lubrication will also be necessary to achieve this speed reliably, so I’m re-building my ‘B’ with special attention to these features.
Herbert had fitted grease nipples to the spindle and spindle drive, and as a result previous owners had made maximum use of these. The whole assembly was stuffed full of grease! I have cleaned all of this out and are in the process of installing shielded bearings with a high speed capable grease.
The spindle in this drill is very thin and potentially flexible, so an out-of-balance chuck may whirl. I had been looking around for a good quality miniature chuck but they are pretty expensive. I then had the idea of attaching a ER11 or ER8 collet chuck instead. Whilst mulling this over I came across a miniature key-chuck on Arc’s site. It had the correct ‘J0’ fitting for my spindle (option 29 in the pictures) and was less then £4! I have therefore bought one of these for initial trials. It’s actually much better than I expected though. On first random installation I measured only 0.010mm (0.0005″) runout on a 2mm drill shank which was shockingly good. However, when installed 180 deg from that position on the spindle nose, the runout increased to 0.100m (0.004″). The latter is still not bad for a drill chuck, but how this will feel at 18000 RPM I don’t know. I may still need to go to an ER collet arrangement for smoothness and balance, but lets see.

I notice in the parts lists that the drill was available with a chucked spindle and collet spindle. Which do you have?
Herberts have made this drill particularly interesting in so far as they have used several special threads and quite a number of LH threads. So be careful when trying to unscrew things. Give me a shout if you get stuck.
I tend to measure up components in important areas to check the assembly quality and in case I need to make another. So if you are missing anything let me know as I may have the details. I did find that part 19 interfered with the bearings so had to machine it down to clear. I also re-installed plain single-row ball bearings in the spindle drive, instead of those self-aligning types which make no sense.
Another mistake I discovered was on the spindle. The seating for the lower bearing contained a radius that was far too big. As soon as I saw it I knew it was too large, even before measuring it! I made this pic for illustration purposes ….


Oversize radii cause bearings to distort and sit out of square. In a high speed application it would generate vibration too which is the last thing I want. I have therefore now sharpened up this shaft fillet to ensure the new bearing sits correctly.
One part my drill didn’t come with was part no. 39/40. I’m not even sure what this is for! Any thoughts?
Gerry