Hardinge HLV-H lathe

[Richard HusseyParticipant @richardhussey80793]

My lathe has a metric gearbox, plus the option of change gears if I want to cut imperial threads. As received there were no gears assembled in the "rear gear box". Do I need a set of gears in the rear gear box for all threading operations? As it is the leadscrew does'nt rotate when I try and cut a metric thread.

Also I'm near retirement and would like to restore and keep this lathe. Has anyone managed to fit a three phase invertor so it t can be run off a single phase supply?

[Richard HusseyParticipant @richardhussey80793]

Threading help plus maintenance/restoration help requested

[Graham MeekParticipant @grahammeek88282]

Hello Richard,

I was fortunate to work a brand new HLV lathe. for 7 years, but that was 40 years ago now, so my memory is not so good. There is a round knob near the rear of the headstock which will select the threading box. The quadrant on the outside of the box is only used for Imperial and special threads, like DP or Mod or additional Metric not covered by the box.

One point to make when setting up for threading is to set your speed first. Increasing the speed alters the trip point on the screwcutting clutch. It is all to do with moments of inertia.

From what I recall there is a sizeable two speed motor on this lathe. In use it is possible to go from high range directly to low range, this might cause some invertors a problem. I know of one person who used a rotary phase converter.

Is your machine fitted with a handle to alter the variable speed, or does it have a separate motor like the one I worked on. If so I suspect this motor will need to be accounted for with the sizing of any invertor. Plus there is the variable DC power feed to the carriage for normal self acting feeds, this too will be a load on the invertor. No doubt the more knowledgeable electrical Forum members can help there.

Regards

Gray,

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Couple of people that I know who have them say they should only be run on a Rotary converter as the high quality motor does not run smoothly on an inverter and that can affect finish.

[Pete RimmerParticipant @peterimmer30576]

I have a HLV which is approaching total restoration.

By rear gearbox do you mean the end section which is accessible by opening the end cover? If so, you need to put the gear selector in the end slot and fit the appropriate gears on the banjo then adjust the banjo so that tge gears mesh to complete the train. If you do that, the screw should turn..

On my lathe there is a rod that pokes out whenever you're using the built-in gear cluster which prevents you from swinging the banjo into engagement, so that you cannot run two ratios at the same time and crash the gearbox.

[Richard HusseyParticipant @richardhussey80793]

Thanks to all who have replied to my post for help. I was convinced even for metric threads there should be a pair of gears in the rear gearbox. When I read Pete Rimmers reply and looked, yes obviously there could not be gears there when using the built in gearbox. With that out of my mind it had to be something else. Yes have worked it out now. all good. Pete, dont know where you are in the UK but would be good to see the restoration on your HLV when all safe.

Jason B and Graham Having spoken to a very helpful Pete Moss at Transwave this morning a rotary converter is the way to go. Plug and Play. Thanks Guys.

[Pete RimmerParticipant @peterimmer30576]

I'm in North Kent. You'd be welcome to come and have a look around it some day Richard.

Posted by JasonB on 14/05/2020 12:55:35:

Couple of people that I know who have them say they should only be run on a Rotary converter as the high quality motor does not run smoothly on an inverter and that can affect finish.

I removed the motor from mine and fitted a new Siemens 3-phase motor and VFD. The original dual-speed one could have been powered on one speed with a VFD because it had separate windings for the two speeds, but I have the same now with a brand new motor and VFD for high/low RPM rather than a 63yr old motor with wiring complications. I've often see it quoted that the original was super-smooth and supremely balanced, but that was when it was new, and the vari-speed pulleys not worn, the belts not hardened with time. Most good quality new motors will turn the spindle just as smoothly, or at least not any less smoothly that you could tell.

[Barry Stone 1Participant @barrystone1]

Hi Richard Hussey, I am Barry, a former Hardinge Mach. Tools apprenticed fitter.

I'm interested in your m/c serial number before I make any further comments. This is stamped in various places, dependant on the precise model. For an HLV (up to early 1960's, this can be found around the spindle lock plunger at the rear of the headstock, on an HLV-H (from 1963 to 1977) or KL-1 (from 1978 onwards) it is on the back of the bed casting at the tailstock end of the m/c.

I have a parts catalogue for the HLV-H (very similar to KL-1) and somewhere I believe, even an operator's manual!

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