Do you cheat ?

[Eric CoxParticipant @ericcox50497]

I was cutting a M2 male thread in brass which kept snapping off like a carrot. In the end a drilled and tapped the main body and screwed in a grug screw and cut to length.

Now when ever a need a short length of M2/3/4 thread I do the same. I end up with a perfect thread that screws right up to the shoulder.

Does anyone else cheat and how.

[Eric CoxParticipant @ericcox50497]

[Gordon WParticipant @gordonw]

Always do that, it's not cheating, just good design.

[M0BNDParticipant @m0bnd]

Necessity is the mother of invention!!!

I have used this trick once before but for a much longer M3 thread. A spot of green loctite and all was solid and good.

This is something you will use many times over I think?

Andy.

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

Metric Screw M2 2 x 8mm Brass, price, 4 quid each

I would cheat too…(although they are a lot cheaper elsewhere)

Edited By Ady1 on 02/06/2013 11:23:47

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

I do this all the while on titanium shafts,

They have a M12 thread on the end 30mm long, as well as them stripping regulary and being easier to replace 45mm of M12 Titanium studding [ 15mm to go in the end of the shaft ] is far cheaper than 30mm of 50mm Titanium shaft that has to be turned down and threaded < BG >

[The Merry MillerParticipant @themerrymiller]

Did almost the same on my 3/8" BSW drawbar on my mill where the thread had just about stripped.

Turn the end down to 6 mm dia for about 40 mm (just about removed all of the old thread)

Cut off 40 mm from a high tensile caphead and discard the head.

Drill right through the threaded section at 6.1 mm dia.

You drill right through to prevent the piston effect when you subsequently bond the threaded sleeve to the drawbar using Loctite 638.

Job done.

Very effective.

Len. P.

[Author]

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