Colchester Student Roundnose Gear Oil

[JOHN BRIDGE 1Participant @johnbridge1]

Does anyone have any recommendations as to what oil to use to replace the oil in the gearbox.

[JOHN BRIDGE 1Participant @johnbridge1]

[JOHN BRIDGE 1Participant @johnbridge1]

Posted by JOHN BRIDGE 1 on 12/04/2014 23:00:54:

Does anyone have any recommendations as to what oil to use to replace the oil in the gearbox.

Headstock oil.

[FMESParticipant @fmes]

From the manual John – Shell Tellus 27, MFDS attached

**LINK**

I seem to recall someone telling me it wasn't available (May have been something else) as I see 27 isn't listed and that Mobil DTE24 was used instead.

(Edited to add the link properly )

Edited By Lofty76 on 13/04/2014 08:25:52

[FMESParticipant @fmes]

John, this might be useful **LINK**

[JOHN BRIDGE 1Participant @johnbridge1]

Thanks to you both for your replies, I do have that Manual the problem is that that oil is no longer available, I just wondered if anyone had any experience of an equivalent.

[JOHN BRIDGE 1Participant @johnbridge1]

Sorry Lofty76 should have read thanks to you,

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Mobile DTE24 is ISO 32 viscosity and is sold primarily as a hydraulic oil. Pretty much any premium hydraulic oil with anti-wear additives should be fine. Modern oils are much better than what was around when the machine was made so exact specification is not so important. Anything good and close will do, especially in the home shop where the machine will be relatively lightly used.

Genrally supply issues determine the choice as most of us can't pop down the shop and buy a can off the shelf. I use Castrol Hyspin AWS 32 as my general purpose machine oil and Castrol Magna BD 68 as way / heavy duty bearing oil primarily because RS Components stock them and do reliable, fast, delivery via credit card order at acceptable prices. BD68 is also a wonderful oil-can oil for hinges etc.

Clive

[JOHN BRIDGE 1Participant @johnbridge1]

Thanks for your reply Clive, I have only had this machine for a short while and I am attempting restoration, it has not been looked after and I am wondering if it is worth the effort. I have made a few improvements already and I like the machine. It has had a 3 phase to single phase modification but the motor is only 0.75 HP and fed through a stop/start switch only ( all original electrics have been removed ). The reason for the oil question is I do not know what oil is in it and when I run the Lathe up it will not hold top gear until the oil has warmed up ( this is just with the 10 inch chuck in place with no machining taking place ). Tha Motor hunts heats up and stops and restarts itself after cooling down ). I wondered if the oil was causing too much drag ) or is the Motor not powerful enough, I will be putting a Single Phase 3 HP motor on it if I decide to complele the restoration.

[Phil WhitleyParticipant @philwhitley94135]

Hi John, I also have a student roundhead, and I am not surprised the 3/4hp motor overheats on high speed, in fact I am surprised it turns it at all, as it should be a 3HP. You would probably get away with a 2, or even 1 1/2hp but I fear 3/4hp is pushing the envelope too far! They are good machines, and I am lucky because I have three phase. Good luck with it!

Phil

[JOHN BRIDGE 1Participant @johnbridge1]

Thanks Paul yes the motor is too small and if I go ahead it will have a 3 HP in it. I am just trying to decide how much needs to be spent to finish up with a decent machine, it is a 1957 model, what oil is in your headstock, the gearbox in mine is fairly noisy, is yours, is this normal, it is just loud not grating. I like this machine.

John

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

The previous owner might have just put car oil in it which is too viscous. You could evaluate it a bit by putting a few drips alongside your car engine and car steering system oil on a flat plate then tipping it to see the relative dribble rates. You could also look at the newer gearhead lathe manuals on the Grizzly website to see if their listed oils bear any resemblace to what is actually available.

[JOHN BRIDGE 1Participant @johnbridge1]

I have some Esso nuto H32 for my Myford and it is watery in comparison with what is in the box, maybe the Nuto would be suitable for the Colchester.

[Bob JeppParticipant @bobjepp]

I believe that Tellus 37 is the nearest available nowadays.

[Phil WhitleyParticipant @philwhitley94135]

Hi John.

AFAIK mine has straight 30 hydraulic oil in it, it does drag a bit when cold, but it is fine when warm. They are noisy! as you say there should be no graunching, but they do make a high pitch whine on the higher speeds. Mine is about the same vintage as yours. Check and clean the inside of the oil level sight glass because they often look as if the oil level is ok but what you are actually looking at is a stain on the perspex!

Phil

[Phil WhitleyParticipant @philwhitley94135]

Hi John.

AFAIK mine has straight 30 hydraulic oil in it, it does drag a bit when cold, but it is fine when warm. They are noisy! as you say there should be no graunching, but they do make a high pitch whine on the higher speeds. Mine is about the same vintage as yours. Check and clean the inside of the oil level sight glass because they often look as if the oil level is ok but what you are actually looking at is a stain on the perspex!

Phil

[Phil WhitleyParticipant @philwhitley94135]

whoops double double post post!

[JOHN BRIDGE 1Participant @johnbridge1]

Hi Phi, Thanks again, good tip about sight glass I have been struggling to see it in the poor light in my Garage where it is at the moment, eyes not to good as well. Just done a surfacing cut on a piece of 4 inch ally ( 20 thou cut ) motor cut when almost done, dont know how previous owner managed with this motor, what size have you got and is it ok, I am going to have to buy a new one so may as well go for 3 hp. The safty pin on the drive to the lead screw was also sheared and the nut tightened up to afford some drive. I think I will restore this, I like it.

Regards

John

[Author]

Posts