Colchester Chipmaster what to check for

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

Um, well it's yours Andrew, so you might as well see what can be done with it. You're up for a challenge – at the beginning you said you were prepared to dump the variator and motor.

Next step is to clean it up as Clive said and do a detailed inspection. Apart from obvious damage, missing parts, and serious wear it's not easy to evaluate a lathe just by looking at a pile of bits. I'm sure if you publish photos and ask questions as you go, you'll get a better idea from the forum of how sour your lemon is, or not. Don't give up too quickly because appearances can be deceptive. There are lathes that look like wrecks that work well, and tarted up beauties that are junk. (At least you haven't been conned outright with one of those!)

Much easier to understand the lathe's shortcomings as it's put back together. You can take it step-by-step. Once the headstock is on, it's alignment and bearings can be checked using the bed as a reference. Ditto the tail-stock. Then, spinning the chuck by hand will let you confirm the gearing, lead-screw etc all turn as they should.

Others will know far better than me because I've never done it, but I'd advise taking a steady approach taking lots of notes and photographs as you go. The trick will be spotting a hopeless case before spending too much time and money on it. For example, I wouldn't buy anything until all the parts are together and you're confident it's worth fixing.

I don't know about the Chipmaster, but some lathes need careful re-alignment after they've been taken apart : reassembly may not be quite as simple as tightening a few bolts. In cases like that the forum is a gem, ask a particular question and someone will know the answer. Unfortunately I doubt anybody has the time needed to put together a lathe reassembly guide for you before you start work. If such a thing existed it would be a best-selling book!

Please keep us informed. However it turns out your experience will be valuable and interesting.

ebay is a good way to find second-hand lathes for sale, but it's risky to buy one without inspecting it first. Ideally, you want to see and hear it cutting metal, and be able to measure results. Even if you can inspect it, a beginner may not know what to look for and even experts occasionally get burnt. It's all part of life's rich tapestry…

Dave

[Eric ArthrellParticipant @ericarthrell78468]

Posted by not done it yet on 13/08/2018 15:58:12:

On something as expensive as that, I would be paying cash on collection and inspecting it before taking a chance. It would then be my judgement to blame, if I got it wrong.

I would have walked or negotiated, dependent on my feelings at the time. As it is clearly not as advertised, I think I might well have thanked him for wasting my time and walked away. I hope you have actually got sufficient value in the end, but somehow I think it will cost you more money than an honest alternative. I wouldn’t be surprised if the head was not off his ‘working’ lathe.

Sorry to be gloomy, but those are my thoughts on the matter.

Edited By not done it yet on 13/08/2018 15:59:09

You could send the seller a message saying you are not well pleased, stating the faults you found contrary to the listing, and ask for a part refund.

The seller may agree to this to avoid neg or neutral feed back. Worth a try

To avoid negative feed back

[Andrew CulverhouseParticipant @andrewculverhouse]

I’ve sent him a message and asked what else he has done other than change the oil. Clive, your actually right. Based on what he has told me.
1 The lathe came to him in a state the one peice (rear splash guard) he hasn’t painted stank of oil and solvent, and the paint had broken down into leathery strips and rusted under some of it.
2 it’s been stripped of all its parts removable, he has even taken the d1-3 chuck key which he says he will replace.
The ways (friction surfaces on the bed – I believe ways is the right word). Are slightly pitted but there is no rust and they are covered is a light oil (closer to wd40 than 3 in 1).
3 it did have a coolant system which has been completely removed.
4 for some reason the motor is exceptionally rusty and has water in the top of it
5 yesterday when I put the headstock in the garage it is leaking oil from the bearing that the d1-3 mount is.

I can’t publicly say what I am up to but I do want some of my money back.

More to follow when I have time.

Oh and I am going to change my username using my real name makes this very easy to find as there are only 3 people in the whole of England with my name.

Andrew

[Nick Taylor 2Participant @nicktaylor2]

Mmm oil leak from the front bearing either means the bearings are so bad that they have destroyed the seal, or more likely that someone has tried to remove the spindle and stopped half way through.

Make sure the front bearing housing bolts are tight before assuming it needs new parts.

The paintwork on my machine is terrible at the chuck end due to coolant, my machine spent its entire life in the fusion prototype shop at the Atomic Energy Authority, and they loved to use aggressive coolant! Repainting is on my list of things to do.

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