VFD's are electronics and, as we all know, prices of such items start high and finish low. Once the initial design and development is complete, and the initial investment recovered, electronic items can be knocked out very cheaply.
There's some risk that counterfeit components might have been used, but that can happen to 'quality' makers too. (Air Force One was fitted with counterfeit aircraft parts, and many reputable manufacturers are caught in the Kobe Steel Scandal. )
An expensive VFD might have higher rated components, be better cooled, have improved software, good EMC properties, support, and a more effective enclosure. Or you might be paying for an out-dated model with a fancy brand-name.
True story. I once bought a cheap wireless router from Tesco's. It turned out to contain the innards of a much more expensive brand-name product. The only difference was that Tesco's version had all the bugs fixed. No-one ever bothered to update the brand-name equivalent; instead they brought out a new model. Next time I bought a new router from a super-market, it was poor.
It's very difficult these days to generalise about 'quality'. You need to check rather than make assumptions. Back in the good old days many things depended on the use of good materials, skills and trade secrets. If it was any good, it was expensive. These days there's much more competition, much manufacturing has been deskilled, and there are no trade secrets. You really have to look quite carefully at what you're buying. In practice, that can be difficult, and most things are 'fit for purpose' rather than 'military grade'. In the end yer pays yer money and takes your chances.
I'd buy a cheap one and risk it. If it lasts 5 years you've won! It's very unlikely that any VFD will become an heirloom, no matter how well it's made.
Dave