Boxford goes crunch! Now refuses to turn.

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

If those are the bearing coves I think that they dropped the washers later and just left the grooves but the covers only just clear the spindle.

That is a typical repair on bust teeth. They can last so that may not be too much of problem but may well bust up more teeth if they break. The chobbled tooth looks like a case of partial engagement of the back gear. Again might be ok. It may be worth talking to John Ward of lathe parts about the problems. Boxford have kindly covered the prices of the bits with a parts diagram on my browser but increasingly more parts are marked obsolete. They do offer the washers at 58p a piece and lots of other bits.

**LINK**

He will also do you a T slotted cross slide if you want one. Other lathes too.

I think this is your headstock

**LINK**

John

–

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Posted by Ian Rees 1 on 01/01/2016 13:08:10:
Ah, looks like someone maybe used the backgear to lock the spindle. I must admit, I did it myself before I read on here that it's a big no no! I'm still flummoxed as to how you're supposed to lock the spindle on these lathes.

Something across the chuck in between the jaws and pressure if the back gear is used to lock things but best left out or as I often do a good sharp whack with a mallet on the chuck key – if I can't budge it by hand, back gear out. Other than something between the chuck jaws both and maybe a sharp whack are bad practice. I believe some models do come with a spindle lock.

I usually manage with a sharp pull on the chuck key but am really good at snapping off the ones with the welded on ends. Fortunately I have a proper one.

John

–

Edited By Ajohnw on 01/01/2016 18:07:27

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Posted by Ajohnw on 01/01/2016 18:00:15:

Boxford have kindly covered the prices of the bits with a parts diagram on my browser but increasingly more parts are marked obsolete.

I think this is your headstock

**LINK**

If you drag your mouse from top left to bottom right and copy the highlighted contents (Control+C etc), you can copy the table of parts and prices without the diagram. You can then paste it into Word, a blank email etc (too much to paste into this post in full)

 

3656-94	BACK GEAR HANDLE	£29.07
3656-104	LARGE BACK GEAR	£10.19
3656-104/105	LARGE BACK GEAR AND SLEEVE ASSEMBLED	£118.72
3656-105	BACK GEAR SLEEVE	obsolete
3656-164	BACK GEAR SHAFT	£6.52
3656-165	FIXED GEAR PIN	obsolete
3656-166	SPACING WASHER	£5.48
3656-185	FELT WASHER (FRONT)	£0.58
3656-186	FELT WASHER (REAR)	£0.58
3656-196	HEADSTOCK DRIVE PIN	£2.63
3656-198	PIN (MAIN SPINDLE KEY)	£0.55
3656-201	GEAR SHIFTER SPRING	£3.15
3656-206	SPINDLE PULLEY PIN	obsolete
3656-207	BACK GEAR RETAINING PLATE	obsolete
3656-208	BACK GEAR RETAINING SCREW	obsolete
3656-230	MAIN SPINDLE KEY	obsolete
3656-242	PIN (BACK GEAR SHAFT)	£0.94
3656-243	PIN (BACK GEAR SLEEVE)	£25.18
3656-250	SPINDLE PULLEY 2 PIN BACK GEAR FIXING OLD TYPE	obsolete

Edited By Muzzer on 01/01/2016 18:15:10

[Ian Rees 1Participant @ianrees1]

I found the parts list and prices on the boxford site and I pinged them an email last night, luckily the parts I need are cheap but the site is quite badly designed.I found you could see the bottom two or three prices under the parts diagram.

I’ve looked into the T slotted cross slide but mine already has T slots in it, two behind the toolpost and one in front of it. I’m wondering if they’ll come in handy at some point, I’ve got a very old engine that could use a rebore and new sleeve in the cylinder but I’ll need to brush up on my skills first as it’s irreplaceable. Very tempted by a boring table for the boxford that I spotted on ebay, as well as many other things like steadies and dividing heads. It’s all too tempting!

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

The cross slide T slots are much more rigid than the ones on the boring table Ian. That is really intended for lathes that lack the ones on the slide. It locates in place of the compound slide using the same location method.

My lathe came with both. Maybe if some one buys the Boxford dividing head that makes sense. It didn't come with that.

The only thing I have used the cross slide T slots for so far is to hold a Myford style slotting attachments. Things like that are pretty easy to adapt. The castings just need boosting up with a plate – usually aluminium.

Seriously if you do want to do anything about the gears John Ward is likely to be the person to talk to. People are often surprised by his prices and he really does know his boxfords. With Boxford from my limited experiences of talking to them part numbers are fine but asking without them proved to be a waste of time. Might just be the person I spoke to.

I think a fixed steady is essential. The boxford travelling steady is really designed to use with a lantern type tool post but it is possible to manage with qctp and others. Without some thought there can be a lot of space between the steady supports and the tip of the tool. This is the worst problem on the lathe as far as I am concerned.

For any mechanical bits you need a mention on the group can be worth while but more people usually look on normal week days. Some one may have the spares you need – if any.

John

–

[Ian Rees 1Participant @ianrees1]

I got a rather badly kept vertical slide with the lathe, it cleaned up pretty well but on closer inspection it seems to be a genuine Myford one which will need some sort of adapter plate making up if I ever want to use it. I can see the ability to cut keyways in shafts being useful to me. Eventually, if business goes well I’ll be after a milling machine but for now, I’ll have to make do with the lathe.

[Ian Rees 1Participant @ianrees1]

The cross slide on mine.

Some of the tooling that came with it, after a little cleaning session.

The bottom of the vertical slide, the dowels match up perfectly with the top slide mounts but I can't see any way of bolting it down as the bolt holes foul the hole on the cross slide.

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Maybe it's the boxford one and the "cone" on the bottom of it is missing. If you remove the compound slide you will see what I mean. If you have the Boxford chuck key one end of the handle will undo the grub screws that hold the compound down via it's "cone"

John

–

[Bob Brown 1Participant @bobbrown1]

Posted by Ajohnw on 01/01/2016 19:01:34:

The cross slide T slots are much more rigid than the ones on the boring table Ian. That is really intended for lathes that lack the ones on the slide. It locates in place of the compound slide using the same location method.

John

–

I beg to differ the table replaces the cross slide rather locating in the same place as the compound slide see **LINK**

Bob

[Ian Rees 1Participant @ianrees1]

That vertical slide has "Myford" stamped in it John, from what I've heard, the Boxford ones are rare. I've seen some pretty nifty modern ones on ebay that interest me, either that or maybe I'll rig something up myself with an angle plate and an old top slide or something.

 

Bob, have you looked at the dimensions for that boring table? 8"x8" seems a bit small for mounting on the cross slide but you could be right. I'm not really prepared to spend that much on a guess though, especially for something I might never use.

Edited By Ian Rees 1 on 01/01/2016 20:16:29

[Bob Brown 1Participant @bobbrown1]

It should sit on the saddle like this

May be the 8" is an error.

I have done milling work on my AUD with the compound slide removed and work piece spaced and clamped to the cross slide.

Bob

[Graham TitmanParticipant @grahamtitman81812]

Hi for removing the 3 jaw chuck a short piece of hexagon bar, i use 3/4 or 19mm ,a good fitting spanner and a sharp tap with a copper hammer.For the 4 jaw a piece of square about the same size but a bit more fiddly.Graham

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

If you sort your headstock problems out the usual other ones are pretty simple.

The cross and compound slide are best set so that there is a bit of resistance to movement. Easiest way to do that is to remove the leadscrews and push by hand. Slideway oil helps a lot but often there is sufficient wear to prevent the same level of stiffness over the full travel. If this is done via the handle it's too easy to over tighten. If it's a case of it being a rather stiffer when the slide is pulled out as far as it can go when the lead screws is in that's not too bad really and will probably work out in practice. I reckon that slides wear more quickly like this because people often set them so loose.

The beds wear but unlike some others this doesn't usually spoil the finish the lathe can obtain but can introduce a taper when turning. They have a lot going for them in this area as the ways are so long on the saddle but it does happen with a lot of use. I had a Viceroy that turned around a 0.005" taper over 4 or 5in due to that on say 1" dia bar. Smaller bar would be worse. If checking that sort of thing by turning the bar may well bend and give a taper.

If the bearings don't look nice and fresh and are scored etc it doesn't cost much to replace them but it's best to turn up the discs etc needed to press them in first. There are cut outs in the head to allow the outers to be drifted out – evenly of course. The front bearing cone replacement needs a bearing press in my view. To much chance of wrecking the spindle without it. Mine is so tight I reckon they use a bearing heater to get it on. The numbers for the bearings needed are on the group but can be hard to find so I collected the info here

**LINK**

I think boxford can still supply them too. I get the impression they supply standard bearings.

The rear bearing cover may need machining on some lathes when the cheaper bearing is used. This doesn't seem to cause people any problems but mine fitted without any machining. I don't see why the machining couldn't be done after the headstock has been fitted and set up etc. It is just a cover.

Give you a few things to play with Ian while waiting for bits.

John

–

[Ian Rees 1Participant @ianrees1]

Thanks John, and everyone else. I don't think there's much wrong with these bearings apart from being absolutely caked in grease. I guess I'll find out when it's time to rebuild.

Bob, now that boring table becomes more tempting! I must stop looking at tools, especially when my wallet is suffering from the post Christmas blues

[Bob Brown 1Participant @bobbrown1]

I did think about one but decided against it as I could do all I wanted without a boring table.

Bob

[Mike Cooper 1Participant @mikecooper1]

Hi Ian. I just did exactly what you are doing last month. I got brand new drive pins and the eccentric shoe direct from Boxford. My only tips are that I cracked my drive gear when inserting the new pins. I assumed as they came from Boxford that the press fit was acceptable…..but they were too tight. Just be careful with this.
Good luck. Mike

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Posted by Bob Brown 1 on 01/01/2016 20:08:38:

Posted by Ajohnw on 01/01/2016 19:01:34:

The cross slide T slots are much more rigid than the ones on the boring table Ian. That is really intended for lathes that lack the ones on the slide. It locates in place of the compound slide using the same location method.

John

–

I beg to differ the table replaces the cross slide rather locating in the same place as the compound slide see **LINK**

Bob

 

I'll beg to differ as well as I actually have the one that fits in the same place as the compound slide.

The parts they made can be used in various ways as they are interchangeable. The ebay one is usually shown on this.

And last but not least

Meant to add that some of these are not that good as the location hole in the top slide is too far out so the actual T slotted cross slide is a better option really.

John

–

Edited By Ajohnw on 01/01/2016 22:47:00

[Mark CParticipant @markc]

Bob is correct, did you take a look at the pictures he linked?

What you have is the sub-table for the milling attachment not the boring table. As Bob said, the table replaces the cross slide as a whole (and should have it's own gib). It is much bigger than the sub-table and has the same size "T" slots as the slotted cross slide. If you had one it would not have a spigot but has a dovetail instead to match the saddle.

Mark

[Ian Rees 1Participant @ianrees1]

Thanks Mike, I’ll keep an eye out for that, maybe size them up in the drill or on my brother’s unimat. The pins I took out weren’t all that tight, only needed pliers for one and mole grips and gentle persuasion with a small punch for the other.

[Author]

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