Anyone shed light on this?

[Martin FaulknerParticipant @martinfaulkner67684]

My apoogies, I did not see page 2 and the responses on the reamer. I will clean it up. I think it has been in a box for some years as the back of a shed. Most things do need a good clean but from what I can see most of it is made in the UK or USA. When I have cleaned it, I will post some updates.

[Brian HParticipant @brianh50089]

I have a 1/2" inch reamer by Toga. On the MSC site they are described as expanding reamers.

Brian

[norman royds 2Participant @normanroyds2]

Has a young boy many moons i worked for company called RCA cutting tools in bury and the company made that type reamer on special order i could not see the saw cuts as special they made from drawings so you would not know what their purpose regards norm

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

For the expanding reamer, the range of relief is quite small maybe just a few thou. Lads used to jack them out and snap off one of the lands and put it back without telling anyone and then deny all knowledge of doing it. I have them down to less than 3 mm. They are in fact, 'Belled' and need extreme care in use.

[Martin FaulknerParticipant @martinfaulkner67684]

[Martin FaulknerParticipant @martinfaulkner67684]

[Martin FaulknerParticipant @martinfaulkner67684]

It is some sort of expanding reamer. Thank you everyone. Apart from the obvious answer, I assume this may have been off a special requirment for this? Anyone with ideas? The only thing I can think of is maybe a rubber bush housing on some form or car/brshed arm?

[george AldousParticipant @georgealdous13656]

Going back to the Sintox block it is used in ballistic armour plates in body armour .

[roy entwistleParticipant @royentwistle24699]

We used expanding reamers like that on printing machines when using undersized bushes. If I remember rightly our reamers were about 10 thou under nominal size. ( I'm going back a good twenty five years )

Roy

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

That type of expanding reamer was commonly used for reaming valve guides, so had only a limited range of adjustment from slightly below to slightly above the nominal size. I think maybe they were cheaper and easier to use for the average motor mechanic than a fully adjustable reamer. Big diesel engines used quite large ones. Often they were used to just ease the bore of the valve guide after it had been pressed or shrunk into the head and closed up a tad in the process.

[Martin FaulknerParticipant @martinfaulkner67684]

Thank you all,

Armour or high voltage insulation is what I am going for, as for the persons job/history I am still not there. I have one last item which looks to be an aluminium roller with airlx stamped on it and c8 in a dimond shape. Did a Google search with no avail. Any ideas on the stamp marks?

[Sam StonesParticipant @samstones42903]

Referring to my Model Engineer article – Issue No 4557 Page 529, I found that an adjustable reamer was ideal for a final skimming of the acrylic valve bore. Kept sharp with the occasional rub with an Arkansas stone, cutting was smooth and virtually effortless.

Article extract

I was still concerned about the stress-cracking situation caused by overheating the surface of the bore. Figuring that reaming the valve body in the lathe even at slow speed was not a good idea my next step was to individually hand-ream the bore of each one. That way I could get some `feel’ (literally) for the cutting action. With the valve body held between my fingers, see Photo 8, the reamer automatically lined up with the bore. To achieve an appropriate size before final lapping and polishing, I chose to use an adjustable reamer.

[Sam Longley 1Participant @samlongley1]

Posted by Sam Longley 1 on 10/02/2018 22:04:32:

The item on the top left looks like a blank that goes in a 4 jaw cutter block for a woodwork spindle moulder or moulding machine . I had several. The knives were serrated backed. If I only put 2 knives in the cutter block there would be nothing to put in the 2 spare spaces so the clamps would fall out. therefore, one would put a piece of serrated steel in the space & clamp it tight. For a 65 wide * 100 diam block it would be ( from memory) about 25mm * 65mm * 8 mm Th the ends & edge that goes into the block would be square. The edge that goes flush with the block would be slightly rounded.

Sometimes the piece would be shaped rather like the cutter form but set back a bit. This was to stop the cutter digging into the wood too deep & causing an accident. On a moulding machine we did not bother but on a spindle moulder we would use them

Quite by chance I found one this morning. This is a small one

[Author]

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