Identify some Stainless steel.

This topic has 10 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 26 July 2012 at 11:38 by colin hawes.

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25 July 2012 at 15:19 #95092
Clive Hartland
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@clivehartland94829
I have a bar of Stainless steel that has a red paint over the end, can anyone identify the grade from that colour?

It machines OK and the second question is, can I hard solder it?

Clive
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25 July 2012 at 15:19 #6260
Clive Hartland
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@clivehartland94829
Colour code.
25 July 2012 at 15:35 #95093
JasonB
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@jasonb
Can't help with the colour/grade but I've silver soldeed stainless plenty of times, just use Tenacity No5 or Cup's HT5 flux.

J
25 July 2012 at 15:41 #95094
Anonymous
I think that red indicates 416, a martensitic stainless steel with good machinability, but poor weldability as it includes sulphur and phosphorus. Silver soldering is not recommended, particularly if the joint is to be subjected to moisture.

Regards,

Andrew
25 July 2012 at 20:24 #95108
Sub Mandrel
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@submandrel
Red Gloss is Humbrol No. 19 – I thought everyone knew that?

Seriously , I read a 90's ME with interviews of several steel stockholders and they all used their own coloutr codes and had done so since the Ark. It my be different today, though.

Neil
25 July 2012 at 20:52 #95109
Boiler Bri
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@boilerbri
Took the words right out of my mouth, stubby. It still is the stockholders choice
25 July 2012 at 21:08 #95111
Sub Mandrel
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@submandrel
… and to add to Jason's comment, the only stainless I've ever silver soldered that was under load was for the ram of my 'Stan Bray' keyway slotting cutter. The joint ractured clean across in minutes, but luckily the backup taper pin is still going strong.

If you don't know what grade stainless it is, don't rely on silver soldering it.

Neil
25 July 2012 at 21:53 #95118
Clive Hartland
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@clivehartland94829
Thank you for the heads up on the grade, it looks as if I will have to order some 304 instead.

Annoying as I have made the parts already.

Clive
26 July 2012 at 09:12 #95130
The Mad Professor
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@themadprofessor
Just a little warning. If you use silver solder, use the lowest melting point you can, a zinc-free solder, or use a special stainless steel grade of solder, such as Argobraze 56 (usual disclaimer). If you silver solder an austenitic stainless steel at about 700 deg C using a zinc rich solder, it is likely to crack due to zinc embrittlement. Remember Flixborough?

Edited By The Mad Professor on 26/07/2012 09:14:23

Edited By The Mad Professor on 26/07/2012 09:15:13
26 July 2012 at 09:54 #95134
IVATTLMS
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@ivattlms
If the material is non-magnetic and machines easily probaly 304 if magnetic 416 or mild steel
26 July 2012 at 11:38 #95137
colin hawes
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@colinhawes85982
I have given stainles steel springs a speck of silver solder to enable soft soldering electrical wires. Colin
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