I have completely given up trying to slit on my x2. It simply doesnt have enough torque. Instead I use the lathe in low and mount work in the tool post.

Here's my MT1 slitting saw ….the MT1 blank arbour had an extra mild steel 'collar' Loctited on to it and the new 'assembly' was then turned true and a 'cap' made to suit the saw's bore. The diameter of the arbour used affects the depth of cut you can make – so this is also a factor to consider when choosing a blade size…

Regards,

IanT

Whichever you go for the 63mm length arbor with collars is more useful than the shorter MT3 for use with 16mm centre blades.

With slitting saws you also need to consider how much depth of cut you can obtain with various blade diameters and arbor collar diameters, max DOC will be: (blade diameter minus arbor collar diameter ) / 2

With some combinations this can be a very small max DOC.

I haven't any experience using the Sieg X2 but I'm sure with the correct set-up and choice of saw thickness, spindle speed and feedrate those machines are capable of the task. When slitting it is best to use a coolant sprayed onto the saw teeth when they leave the cut to remove any chips that may be between teeth, failing coolant an air blast will achieve the same but without the lubrication.

Because slitting is done at low speeds there may be a problem with available torque, fizzy mentions this problem.

Emgee

I've used MT adaptor sleeves in the past Ignast but mostly it's been to fit MT1 mounted accessories in my (MT2) Myford tailstock (for instance when using my smallest drill chuck or female centres). So any 'extra' run out present wasn't that apparent – as the taper was not rotating. I'm sure I've also used a MT3 > MT2 sleeve on the Victoria once in order to use a cutter (that didn't fit the MT3 tool holders I normally use) but it was a roughing job and to be honest I was more interested in shifting metal than anything else. Whilst I didn't notice a problem that I can recall, I don't think it would be an ideal example to give.

My gut feeling would be that any adaptor sleeve must introduce more run-out to some degree. It would of course depend on the quality of the sleeve – but there must be some additional inaccuracies introduced. If it was going to be a permanent 'mating' then it might be worth while testing the combined sleeve and taper – to see if a particular orientation of the native MT2 taper within the MT3 sleeve counteracted any run out inherent in each to some extent. If a position was found where the overall run out was minimised, then you could mark them accordingly and always set them up like that. Just a thought – I've not tried it myself I'm afraid.

With regards slippage – if you use a drawbar too tightly, I think you will find that your problem is less likely to be the taper slipping but more your ability to actually get the taper out of the machine after use. I believe it's why many prefer an R8 taper to a MT3 one on their mill.

Regards,

IanT

If you get an MT3 1/2 in collet you can make a parallel shank arbor of choice. If you put a shoulder on it and tap for a 1/4in drawbar that passes through the collet thread (3/8 in) or metric equivalents then you won't have to worry about it moving up and down.

To answer the first question a clean new 2-3 adaptor should run true enough but the rusty one at the bottom of that box of bits at the boot sale best just for drills.

My X3 is happy at low speed with 100mm dia blades, I first cut several shallow passes to give a straight slot to stabilize the blade as it goes deeper. Easily slots the Harold Hall dividing head block. I use the MT3 16 and 22 arbor direct, well lubed with wd40 or such like. Take your time and traverse the table evenly.

Clive

From the armchair:

Isn't the issue with slitting saws the need for low spindle speeds? Some mills don't have enough torque at low spindle speeds and there is a side effect of slow running, in that there is not enough air being pulled through the motor to keep it cool. This is with reference to the smaller mills with electronic speed controls.

From the workshop:

I've also noticed with some belt driven mills, that the lowest speed ratio using a pulley size way off spec for the belt being used (ie the old Chester Eagle and similar clones). This means the belt slips.

Steve

Nice job Michael. I too had a dose of the wobbly arbors. I cheated by using a blank end MT3 arbors from Arceurotrade, very little work work is needed to make them up. The MT2 sizes are really cost effective for this purpose – £3.78

Steve

I tell you its near impossible on my x2 – slow speed = very low torque. Might be better on later models with better motor but not on mine.

Ignast,
I would advise against using any plain MT2 MT3 adaptor because you would lose the drawbar locking of the arbor carrying the slitting cutter and side thrust is such that your slitter and arbor would sooner or later walk out of the adaptor (with obvious disastrous results).
I'm not aquainted with Clive's releasing ring but this may help but only if it provides that positive hold of the whole cutter assembly into the spindle.
Depending on your detail requirements it sounds like an MT3 blank end adaptor machined to suit would be your best bet

Bob D

Hi Danny

What rpm is your spindle turning with the cutting disc ?

Emgee

Hi Danny,

From your picture it is difficult to see if the dremel cutting disc you are using is of the variety which snaps easily like a biscuit. If so, and if this is something which one is considering to use, I would like to suggest that protective goggles are used for eye protection and that some kind of guard is in place – be it the one which comes on the machine, or a detachable one of the variety which is fitted to magnetic stand.

From first hand experience, I can tell you that it is a little scary when one of these snaps during use, flies off and lodges itself in ones arm.

This comment also applies to use of slitting saws and holders, making sure that the blades are held securely.

There is hardly any clear safety guidance out there on this subject, and the risk factor for a beginner without experience is higher, when considering the use of such saws and blades.

Ketan at ARC.

Edited By Ketan Swali on 29/11/2015 17:36:42