Yes, if you have straight up flanges they scrape the rails on corners. I use a brazed carbide form tool with the correct root radius and the cutting face at the flange angle. HSS would be OK if you take it steady. You should really have done it all at one setting, makes it easier to get them all the same size and concentric, but it sounds as though it's too lae for that.

To the confused:- The original Myford ML7 top slide would only rotate to about 45° from parallel to the bed, 60° with a bit of rearrangement.

To Jimmy:- Make a pair lengths of T-nut bar longer than the cross slide is wide, or make/get some flat stock that will fit into the lower part of the cross slide T slots. Arrange this so it is overhanging both sides of the cross slide. Now take another couple of pieces of flat stock that have tapped holes in them and hold them below the first pair, beside and parallel to the cross slide. Rotate the top slide and use screws to clamp it to the pieces beside the cross slide.

The bits don't have to be fixed together, since the clamping screws will hold everything in place once they're done up.

Guess how I learned this trick?

Edited By Mark Rand on 25/03/2018 16:32:03