WM16 motor replacement

Advert

New Replies

Report Bug

Help/FAQs

WM16 motor replacement

This topic has 13 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 9 August 2015 at 10:07 by Mark P..

Viewing 14 posts - 1 through 14 (of 14 total)

Author

Posts
29 July 2015 at 21:28 #12521
Mark P.
Participant
@markp
Advert

29 July 2015 at 21:28 #198407
Mark P.
Participant
@markp
My WM16 motor has bitten the big one and taken out the controller board. Anyone got any ideas for a replacement? I’ve not tried Warco but I expect them to be expensive. I would like a brushless motor but don’t want to spend a fortune on it.
Mark P.
29 July 2015 at 21:45 #198411
John Rudd
Participant
@johnrudd16576
The 16 has a 1 hp motor fitted to it…..or at least 750 w whether that's input power or otherwise …..

You will be hard pushed to find a drop in replacement of similar properties….

A single phase will be bigger, as will a 3 ph counterpart.

As an example,

I recently bought a 'big' lathe similar to the 290…. Has a 1.5 kW motor fitted…..

A 3 phase drop in isn't as simple…the new motor has a different footprint to the orig, so some metal butchery is involved, then it has a different shaft dia…. So a new pulley needs to be made…..l

Good luck resolving your problem

Edited By John Rudd on 29/07/2015 21:45:49
29 July 2015 at 21:56 #198414
Alex Collins
Participant
@alexcollins55045
Hi. You can repair the board yourself, I have done this twice.
You need to replace the 4 (sometimes 6) output transistors. The square black doofah's mounted on the heatsink.
There will be 2 types and cost about £1 each form people like CPC or RS Components.
Simply unsolder the old ones, replace like for like and away you go.
Worst case, it's cost you ~£5 and you still have a broken board.
You can test the board is working with a Light Bulb. It should dim without flickering.

The motor will probably have to be from Warco. I looked at re winding mine and it was cheaper to buy a new motor.

Alex.
30 July 2015 at 08:22 #198433
Mark P.
Participant
@markp
Thanks for the replies,to be honest I’ve never been totally impressed with the motor it seemed to eat brushes. I think I will investigate fitting an ac motor with belts and stepped pullies.
Mark P.
30 July 2015 at 15:03 #198478
Mark P.
Participant
@markp
Good news, well quite good the board is OK so I have ordered a new motor from Warco cheaper than I though ?90 so not to bad.
Mark P.
30 July 2015 at 22:34 #198540
oldvelo
Participant
@oldvelo
Hi

Hind sight observation here

"Thanks for the replies,to be honest I've never been totally impressed with the motor it seemed to eat brushes".

This is a sure sign that all is not well with the armature windings on the motor for some time.

Sorry this will not help with your problem I am in not being critical just adding a pointer to any else who may be experiencing a motor that "Eats" brushes.

Eric
31 July 2015 at 17:02 #198624
Mark P.
Participant
@markp
Well new motor fitted switched on, motor ran for 2 seconds, blue flash and a pop from top of motor circuit breaker tripped!
Mark P.
31 July 2015 at 18:03 #198631
John Rudd
Participant
@johnrudd16576
How did you determine that the speed controller was ok?

The blue flash suggests that the controller is defective…..more than likely the scr's are shorted….

You can test the motor on a low voltage DC supply from 2 12v batteries connected in series….

The controller can be tested by connecting a 100 watt light bulb in place of the motor…..

The whole system can be tested safely with a 100 watt light bulb in series with the main supply coming in….it will limit the current draw and hopefully protect the board and motor ……
31 July 2015 at 19:12 #198641
Mark P.
Participant
@markp
To be honest John I assumed that the controller was probably ok as there was no burnt smell in the box. The old motor did the same thing after I had cleaned the com,so I guessed the motor was goosed. I put my meter across the output wires and got 220v then the breaker tripped. The new motor has 230v on it’s label so I assume it means 230 volts.
Mark P.
31 July 2015 at 20:15 #198653
John Rudd
Participant
@johnrudd16576
Basically what happens, the thyristors ( scr ) become shorted circuited, this then puts AC straight to the motor….

because the motor is a permanent magnet DC motor, putting AC onto its windings would cause the armature to try and oscillate back n forth at 50 hz…..but effectively it becomes a short circuit to the controller and the fuse blows..

It is conceivable that the orig motor was ok…..shout up if you need any help…

Edited By John Rudd on 31/07/2015 20:16:47
31 July 2015 at 20:54 #198659
Mark P.
Participant
@markp
Thanks for the offer John not sure which way to go,wether to get a new controler board or see if I can repair it myself. As it stands I have a lump of metal that is not any good so repair may be the way to go. Or fit an inverter drive to it and sell the 2 motors I have to off set the cost of the inverter.
Regards Mark P.
31 July 2015 at 21:20 #198662
John Rudd
Participant
@johnrudd16576
FWIW, if it were me, I'd determine the extent of the damage ….controller or motor or both…..Look at ease of repair then decide…..

The scr devices need a hefty soldering iron to remove them…or you could just cut the legs above the board….

Do bear in mind, if you go the replacement route, that they are tab isolated devices….if your replacements are not the same they may need insulating from the heat sink. Else more fireworks..
9 August 2015 at 10:07 #199789
Mark P.
Participant
@markp
Well I have now replaced the controller board and all is well with the world.

I am now left with a spare DC motor and would like to use it with my Flexispeed lathe,what I would like to know will this speed controller be ok to use with it?**LINK**

As far as I know the motor is a ZYT series motor.

Regards Mark P.
Author

Posts