Hello, ive just registered. Im a complete beginner and have just purchased my first lathe. Its a 1902 drummond. It has a split bearing type headstock with the spindle running in the cast iron. It has a bit too much play to adjust out. Both the spindle and the headstock have worn. I have about 0.12mm of lift in the spindle at the chuck.
My plan, maybe ambitious for a beginner, is to make a new spindle and ream the headstock to fit. I know this may not be super accurate, but would be better that it flopping about. The headstock adjusts to get it running paralell with the bed so vertical alignment is the main concern.
Would be easier to turn down and sleeve the old spindle but this is my only lathe. Would be better to bore the headstock and fit bushes but thats alot more likely to go wrong as ive not done anything like that before.
So im left with new spindle and reaming.
I assume you should ream hole first then make spindle to fit but as I say, this is my only lathe so new spindle first. Also means if I cant make a spindle i still have a lathe that is usable.
So, my question is, what do I make the spindle from? The steel needs to be machinable by a beginner with hss tooling. Does it need hardening? If so, that also needs to be doable by a beginner (I dont think original is hardened, would it be if running in cast iron?).
Ive had a bit of a search on the internet, I think I saw suggestions for en8?

Thanks.

As a new member, ive just realises you have a help and assistance catagory. I guess I should have put this there?

Yes, was me looking for a headstock.
As for the reamed holes being parallel, I guess I was going to be relying on luck I think I have equal wear in spindle and bore, about 0.002″ on each. I was hoping I would get away with just cleaning that up with a reamer. I have no real experience of how that would go though. I sort of assumed it would be ok.Only one bearing NEEDS doing.
Getting the whole lot sorted by other people would be great but Im assuming it would cost quite alot to give someone the headstock and spindle and get it all sorted.

I was trying to come up with a way of fixing it with what I have available.

Do you think attempting this myself is likely to end in dissapointment and a ruined lathe?

Replacement headstocks are thin on the ground. They do sometimes come up though. Thing is, they made these from 1902 to 1912 but this style of headstock is onle on early 1902 models.

I can turn on it, it behaves well if I cut light, doesnt like parting though. With my inexperience , when I get to about 1cm diameter left it tries to dig in and ride over the tool and it all jams up.
I can make a few parts though, but nothing too serious untill this issue is sorted.

Been thinking more about this reaming. The play was measured with the adjustment as tight as I dared without cracking the headstock. The play is nearly all up and down as the bore doesnt compress evenly. I assume I have, in reality, probably twice as much wear. I can think of ways it could be kept parallel when reamed, but not with the tooling available to me.
I guess its time to find out what it would cost to fix (too much I guess).
Im in chesterfield. Can anyone recomend any companies in chesterfield/sheffield areas who would even take on a small (but accurate) job like this?

Had crossed my mind.
I wasnt sure how good it would be, how big a gap would be needed for it to be stable and not peel, and I guess the scores (not too bad) on the spindle would need filling or you’d never get it out again.

I spoke to a couple of ‘pro’s’. One was too busy but suggested measure the bore and if its concentric get spindle plated and ground. One couldnt do it as he didnt have the right boring machine but suggested 2 more companies. I only phoned one but he was friendly, helpfull, seemed interestes and asked for photo’s so ill see what he says. Got a feeling its going to be spendy though

A bit of searching shows you can get guides with a taper sleeve to help a reamed hole line up with a second hole.

Maybe there is life in the idea, but im concentrating on either replacement or getting someone else to do it as a proper job would be difficult with what I have available.

No, verticaly. Its not in too halfs either, just a slot under the bearing.
Silly design really, I guess thats why they changed it to a properly engineered bronze bearing within 6 months. Hoping ill find one of those headatocks for sale one day.

Ill measure it later, see if its still round when not compressed by the adjuster.

Yes, it has a tiny bore and a mt1 taper.
I have considered, if making a spindle, seeing how much bigger I could go. I could increase diamater a fair bit, get a bigger bore, bigger nose thread and taper. Only limit is meat around the bearings and how far I could bore the pulley. I have 3 or 4 faceplates, one with lots of tapped holes, looks like a dividing plate but isnt, 2 faceplate chucks, a nice 4 jaw and a lovely 3 jaw so id need to bore and re thread all those too.
Still, could be a good opertunity to upgrade it.

Its been reground in its life, has new leadscrews and nuts and has been modified to fit a proper cross slide and top slide. I also have a traveling and fixed steady so on the whole, although its old and not all that stiff, its worth getting it sorted.

In fact, ill add a pic of the cross slide to my album (I cant put it in the thread from my phone). If anyone wants to see if they know what its from, no one seems to recognise it. Looks very ‘britannia’ to me.

Edited By Graeme Whitfield on 23/02/2015 18:28:27

Ok, so i worked out how to add a pic, but not how to put text as well!

Anyhow, getting sidetracked, anyone recognise these parts? Certainly not original.

Getting even more sidetracked, i knew about model engineer magazine but (dont tell anyone) i dont have much interest in trains.

I have just clicked the link at the top about model engineer workshop magazine and it looks like the best thing ever!

Subscription only or is it carried in any shops?