New warco 250 v lathe

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New warco 250 v lathe

This topic has 29 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 17 April 2015 at 19:53 by JasonB.

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10 August 2014 at 11:44 #160349
Mike guitar
Participant
@mikeguitar
Hi, I've recently bought a Warco 250v-f lathe it's the. New model with a delta controlled ac induction motor, I'm reasonably pleased with the machine, unfortunately the carriage lock doesn't work and the manual doesn't show the engineering details, I've emailed warco and they are getting back to me, I've been informed there's a cam beneath the bed which is tightened down by an Allen screw from the top slide, I suspect I'm going to have to remove the whole assembly to fix the problem just wondered if anyone experienced this problem with the previous dc motor version of the lathe?
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10 August 2014 at 11:44 #12328
Mike guitar
Participant
@mikeguitar
Carriage lock
12 August 2014 at 17:56 #160530
Vic
Participant
@vic
Just a thought, but as you're probably aware in many cases the machines we buy are virtually identical across the range of vendors that supply them. The very best vendor in my opinion for documentation including data and drawings is Grizzly tools in the USA. If you can find your model Lathe in their lineup then download the manual and spare parts list, they will have far more written information than Warco are likely to provide. I should add that I have a Warco machine I'm happy with, the manuals just not very good!
13 August 2014 at 06:59 #160559
mechman48
Participant
@mechman48
Hi Mike

I have the same model only with the earlier motor fitted (bought 2012) & it has the same problem with the saddle lock although with mine I can give the allen key a good pull & it will lock the saddle sufficiently for what I do. It will need the clamping block modifying at a later date, a very slight step machined in it should do the trick but would need some dismantling at the tailstock end so for now I'll leave well alone.. 'If it aint broke don't fix it'…

George
13 August 2014 at 07:24 #160560
john kennedy 1
Participant
@johnkennedy1
Mike, have a look at the mods this chap has done to his 250. http://www.cign.org/sadclamp.html

I've done a few of them,including the saddle clamp. Works a lot better..John
13 August 2014 at 08:28 #160565
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
John,

That's an interesting page …

I decided to have a quick look around his site, but found that I couldn't navigate the menu bar using the iPad.

… for anyone experiencing similar difficulty, here is the site map [which does work]

MichaelG.
13 August 2014 at 09:46 #160567
mick pynn
Participant
@mickpynn92485
**LINK**

Hi Mike,Ive also bought this lathe two months ago and found this link very useful ,I hope the link works..!!!
13 August 2014 at 19:36 #160611
Mike guitar
Participant
@mikeguitar
Posted by Vic on 12/08/2014 17:56:35:

Just a thought, but as you're probably aware in many cases the machines we buy are virtually identical across the range of vendors that supply them. The very best vendor in my opinion for documentation including data and drawings is Grizzly tools in the USA. If you can find your model Lathe in their lineup then download the manual and spare parts list, they will have far more written information than Warco are likely to provide. I should add that I have a Warco machine I'm happy with, the manuals just not very good!

Thanks Vic, sorry for the delay getting back, I've been busy checking the saddle!!!!!ive had a link sent to me from another member I,m checking the grizzly site and as so many before have stated the manuals are far more detailed in every respect, I'm also happy with the lathe still fiddling with change gears etc but having taken a few weeks to engine crane it onto its stand and then construct some levelling plates I'm kinda running behind schedule thanks again Vic
13 August 2014 at 19:41 #160613
Mike guitar
Participant
@mikeguitar
Posted by mechman48 on 13/08/2014 06:59:13:

Hi Mike

I have the same model only with the earlier motor fitted (bought 2012) & it has the same problem with the saddle lock although with mine I can give the allen key a good pull & it will lock the saddle sufficiently for what I do. It will need the clamping block modifying at a later date, a very slight step machined in it should do the trick but would need some dismantling at the tailstock end so for now I'll leave well alone.. 'If it aint broke don't fix it'…

George

Thanks George, nice to find and chat to other peeps with the same lathe always useful, I did try and tighten my lock with no success, I'm also not to keen on removing the saddle just yet, for one thing my wife refuses to support the saddle whilst I'm loosening the leadscrew!!!! I'm investigating will post developments
13 August 2014 at 20:04 #160620
Mike guitar
Participant
@mikeguitar
Hi Posted by mick pynn on 13/08/2014 09:46:54:

**LINK**

Hi Mike,Ive also bought this lathe two months ago and found this link very useful ,I hope the link works..!!!

Hi and thanks Mick, yes the link works fine, brilliant lots of info there and well worth poring over, Ive been messing with the changegears and cutting a few threads etc mine is the imperial machine so again the handbook supplied with the lathe is a brain teaser.,Lots of removing gears etc I think ive got it sussed, Ive discovered the banjo mesh adjustment to be rather tender resulting in considerable change gear noise if incorrectly setanyway thanks again and hope to keep in touch to check your findings etc
13 August 2014 at 20:06 #160622
Mike guitar
Participant
@mikeguitar
Posted by john kennedy 1 on 13/08/2014 07:24:27:

Mike, have a look at the mods this chap has done to his 250. http://www.cign.org/sadclamp.html

I've done a few of them,including the saddle clamp. Works a lot better..John

Thanks John the mods look great, ill start investigating this weekend, ill post any developments on here
27 February 2015 at 14:24 #181489
Daniel Tompkins
Participant
@danieltompkins96391
Hi, I've only just joined today and as a result of purchasing a new Warco VM 250 V. My machining skills are limited, but my enthusiasm unlimited.

My lathe will arrives in a weeks time and having read the thread, I then read the Grizzly manual and quickly realised I won't be plugging it in and using it straight from the box.

Firstly, i need to build a bench – a sturdy wooden frame with 5 mm plate on top and then level it in. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated.

As to projects, I think the various modifications available will keep me occupied for some time. That is, once I've had time to re-familierise myself with a lathe, its been some time.

Thanks.
27 February 2015 at 19:13 #181534
Bazyle
Participant
@bazyle
Daniel, welcome to our world. If you look at the home page you will find a search point that works better than the one at the top of the page. use this to find lots of threads that mention building benches. It's a popular topic.
28 February 2015 at 00:52 #181564
mechman48
Participant
@mechman48
Welcome Daniel

Another couple of pointers for you to be aware of when you get your toy;

Keep the packing case for a day or two in case there is any reason to return machine,

Check that the gear end guard case tab ( bottom at rear ) is pressing the micro switch in correctly otherwise you'll be wondering why the machine won't start, it took me a while to figure that one out! it seems that this is a common problem ( bent in transit, easily missed .

Check that the Emergency stop button securing / retaining clamp is fitted & tightened up as this seems another assembly fault & the Em. stop will just flop about, mine did & when I checked inside the casing I found the retainer clamp in the bottom of the casing.. soon rectified!. make sure it has been unplugged & any capacitor has discharged before diving into the wiring box …DAMHIK !

Make sure the saddle runs all the way from headstock to tailstock freely as the first machine I received the saddle gear was binding hard against the frame casting giving a couple of quite tight spots making it difficult to move the saddle along. I sent my machine back because of this… lack of QA & assembly Inspection at factory / casting fault , Warco soon remedied that thankfully,

MIKE.. with ref to saddle lock; I took the bull by the horns & decided to modify the lock to cure the common problem.. I dropped the leadscrew block at the tailstock end after sliding the saddle to the tailstock, removed the 4 SHCS from the saddle top to gearbox & dropped the gearbox enough to move the saddle top along to give me room to take out the saddle lock, it's basically a block of cast iron to no defined measurements per se. nor is there any cam device, Just a SHCS into a tapped hole.. unless they have changed the design.. the clamping action, to work effectively needs to have the top of the casting filed / machined to allow the inner side of the block to pull up onto the front shear underside rather than the other way round where it clamped up to the underside of the saddle first… a matter of a minute amount really. I checked the gap prior to removal & iirc found at least a gap of .015" so in effect the saddle lock wasn't pulling up to grip the underside of the front shear.

Having removed the block, taking care not to drop it into the saddle gearbox, I filed approx .030" off the top of the block on the saddle side & refitted the block.. now according to mods … **LINK** .. his lathe differs in the configuration of the saddle lock & he cut his block in two whereas my machine.. 250V-F has a different block design & SHCS spacing so I could leave my lock in one piece. Once refitted & reassembled my saddle lock now works really well, I still have to use an Allen key due the different design & screw spacing of the block but it doesn't take much to lock it up solid… on the down side I didn't take any pics, probably 'cos I wanted it back up & running to test it, neither did I take the opportunity to do a complete stripdown to flush the saddle gearbox out nor resolve the oil leak that has been there since day one…silly me! or more colloquially… stupid t***t, that's what come's of not planning properly, an on the spur of the mo' decision… never mind a redo in the summer is on the toduit list. I've also done the gear silencer mod… it does quieten things down

The only remaining downside I have is the amount of clearance behind the chuck for removal & refitting of said chuck; if you have short fat fingers…Like ME! it's a PITA to change the chuck so I fitted flanged nuts which help a lot instead of fu******* 'fiddling' about with washers… If Warco are listening.. or reading.. get a D1-4 camlock system fitted to this size of lathe, sooooo much a better system… even if they stick another £100 on the price well worth it I'm sure, or give another 10 mm clearance behind the chuck back plate.

All in all a decent machine that I'm pleased with for 'working straight out of the box', other opinions may differ but hey ho horses for courses!… one last /couple of points, get yourself a QCTP system, Dickson type or Aloris / Axa… saves faffing about with packing shims, also get or make a Tangential tool, ( ad on the left side of this forum …usual disclaimer ) if you have the moolah/shekels/lolly, you will find that this will be the tool that you do most of your cutting with, & only one face to grind up! there are pics in my albums of some of the mods done if you / anyone one wants to nose. If I can be of further help please ask / drop me a pm.

Regards

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 28/02/2015 01:01:57
28 February 2015 at 11:43 #181611
Gray62
Participant
@gray62
Just had a look at my new WM250V inverter drive lathe and the carriage lock works perfectly. It looks like they have listened and altered the design as the locking piece is separate to the carriage hold down. A quarter turn and the carriage locks solid. It does seem odd that they still use a socket head screw for this rather than a lever lock which would be much more convenient, anyway, a simple mod to incorporate that should you so desire.

Graeme

Edited By CoalBurner on 28/02/2015 11:44:30
1 March 2015 at 12:08 #181723
Daniel Tompkins
Participant
@danieltompkins96391
Many thanks for the information. I will without doubt be asking for additional advice over the next 10 years or so.
2 March 2015 at 23:46 #181915
Danny M2Z
Participant
@dannym2z
Posted by mechman48 on 28/02/2015 00:52:53:

The only remaining downside I have is the amount of clearance behind the chuck for removal & refitting of said chuck; if you have short fat fingers…Like ME! it's a PITA to change the chuck so I fitted flanged nuts which help a lot instead of fu******* 'fiddling' about with washers…

I just sent Neil a simple widget design to address the problem of inserting nuts into tight gaps as my mini-lathe is just as fiddly when swapping chucks (the faceplate is even a bigger PITA) ;-(

* Danny M *
3 March 2015 at 07:28 #181924
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
I see that the Warco 290 (and SPG) has the ring behind the flange with three "Keyhole" shape openings with a nut clearance size hole in the flange so you leave the nuts on the studs, slip the hole lot on turn the back ring and just nip up the nuts. Would be easy to put on the smaller lathes.

D1-3 would be nicer though but as I don't have sausage fingers I'll carry on with nuts and washers. If they gave you more clearance you would be moving the chuck further from the bearings which would be a downside.

Edited By JasonB on 03/03/2015 07:29:39
14 April 2015 at 02:06 #186337
Daniel Tompkins
Participant
@danieltompkins96391
Well my Warco VM 250V arrived and lasted 2 days before it fizzled, cracked and went pop. Warco, thanks Rodger, had it collected and I received a new machine within a week or so (Easter holidays caused a delay).>>

Had a happy two days cleaning, setting up and turning. Unfortunately on day 3 I started the lathe with the potentiometer at full kilt, i.e. 960 RPM. The mains RCD in the garage tripped, so reset it and attempted to restart; the lathe turns the motor for a second or so and then trips the RCD, as does the main house RCD when a heavy duty extension lead was used. The two fuses on the lathe have remained intact.>>

On contacting Warco, I was told to disconnect the motor, connect a 12V car battery to check if it worked, which it did. If the motor worked then it would be the KBLC 240D and would need a new one. I was told that this was my fault and I should never have started the motor at full tilt and they could try to get a new board. I can confirm though that I didn’t do it on purpose just to find out what would happen.>>

I find it difficult to believe that there is no form of protection for this start up error, is this not the sort of problem that fuses are designed for. Warco told me that protection for this would add cost to the lathe, I would have been quite content to pay a little extra as a quick search on the internet shows a replacement board in the UK is £90.>>

Surely I cannot be the only one who has accidently started there machine in this manner. Yes, the lathe has a small warning near the start button, but nowhere in the Operator’s Hand Book does it even mention how to start the machine or mention starting at the lowest speed in each range.>>

Has anyone else suffered this problem and if so what did you do to rectify it.>>

Many thanks.>>
14 April 2015 at 15:55 #186394
Bowber
Participant
@bowber
I've got a Warco 280V on order at the moment so I'm doing the usual looking around the internet for tips etc.

i read some where that some one was having the same problem and after blowing a few boards and a motor replacement he found the controller info and it said about the Acceleration pot needing to be set to 2 seconds (or something like that) and all the boards from warco had been set to 0.

He'd also been told not to start the motor at high speed but these modern inverter controls have soft start built in so it should not matter?
Have a search as I can't remember where I read it and he may have been on about a DC motor and controller.

I'll have to check this when I get mine.

Steve
14 April 2015 at 17:14 #186399
John Rudd
Participant
@johnrudd16576
If it's an inverter, it will have an accel ramp rate, assuming these have not been tampered with. Generally speaking if the acceleration ramp has been set, it doesn't matter where the speed control pot has been set….the rate of change speed is governed the acceleration rate.

Same applies to the KB KBLC 240D…….and I've set many of these up…….
15 April 2015 at 17:44 #186522
mechman48
Participant
@mechman48
It seems that a lot of members are coming up with Warco related threads; new machine / what machine / 250 / 280 290 questions / comments; maybe a moderator.. Neil / Jason, could tie all the threads into the generic Warco thread that was started some time ago by Rik / myself ?

**LINK**

George
16 April 2015 at 21:44 #186688
Daniel Tompkins
Participant
@danieltompkins96391
If you saw my post regarding a blown motor controller in my Warco lathe, then check your fuses. Mine should have been 8 – 10 amps, where in fact both fuses were 15 amp. The spares that came with it in the tool box where 20 amp.
17 April 2015 at 10:00 #186711
Rik Shaw
Participant
@rikshaw
Fuses front and rear in my 250 are 10 amp fast blow glass. There were no spare fuses supplied so when they blew recently it was of to Maplins for a pack of ten at £2 odd.

Visited a fellow home engineer yesterday whose full time job is in a machine shop – CNC mostly. He bought a 290 inverter version 6 months ago. In his own words "You get a lot of lathe for your money but I wish I had bought something like a Hardinge."

His two main gripes were:

1. To easy to stall / slow especially at low revs.

2. Excessively noisy with banjo gear train in mesh. (His workshop is in garage attached to house and he worries about upsetting his neighbour

Rik

PS Mine is still with Mr Warco being fixed.
17 April 2015 at 10:29 #186716
John Stevenson 1
Participant
@johnstevenson1
Posted by Rik Shaw on 17/04/2015 10:00:45:

Visited a fellow home engineer yesterday whose full time job is in a machine shop – CNC mostly. He bought a 290 inverter version 6 months ago. In his own words "You get a lot of lathe for your money but I wish I had bought something like a Hardinge."

.

Bit like the Reliant owner wishing it was a Rolls Royce then ?
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