Which rotary table

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

I have the Emco copy mill and would like a rotery table for it. This will allow me to cut radial croves etc

Not sure what size to get and is a tilting one worth getting?

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

If you get one with a side mounting flange you can use it as a dividing head too, if not too big.
Tilting is less common and you might be better off inventing a tilting sub table that can also be used for other tilted work.

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Thanks

Any reccomdation of size ie 4" or 6"

I thinks my table is about 165mm wide

[SpringbokParticipant @springbok]

There has been a lot of discussion on tilting tables worth looking it up
Bob

[Martin WParticipant @martinw]

Hi

I have a Vertex 4in table which I find very good. It seems to be built to reasonably high standards and has virtually no backlash when the drive is engaged, the other point worth mentioning is that the table clamps lock onto the edge of the table unlike some that lock the spindle which can cause the table to shift its centre point. The Vertex table is available at a reasonable cost from most of the usual suspects.

Cheers

Martin

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Hi

Is this the one your refering to:

**LINK**

[dcostaParticipant @dcosta]

Hello Petrol1head, good afternoon.

I have one like this **LINK** and it may be used as a dividing head adding a set of dividing discs you can find here **LINK** (DP1 Dividing Plate Set for HV4 & HV6 Type Tables). I'm happy with it.

Best regards
Dias Costa

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

The looks the same as the Vertex one but cheaper.

They also do this on by the same manufacturer, whats the difference **LINK**

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

My home made rt is unconventional, it has a 80mm fitting to match my lathe so I can fit either a chuck or a 7"diameter faceplate. Big mistake was boring it out too large to make an MT2 taper in it.

Neil

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Looking at the photos the Vertes does look like a better quality piece of kit

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Just measured the width of my table and its 6" so do you think I should be looking at a 4" RT

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Petro1head, short answer, yes. Go for the slightly larger one, you will get less frustrated than you would with a 3" one. I find for most jobs my 6" Vertex is about right, then along comes a job that would be better on 8" to 10". Ian S C

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Posted by Ian S C on 05/09/2013 14:33:30:

Petro1head, short answer, yes. Go for the slightly larger one, you will get less frustrated than you would with a 3" one. I find for most jobs my 6" Vertex is about right, then along comes a job that would be better on 8" to 10". Ian S C

Sorry if I sound thick but which size are suggesting I go for?

[Martin WParticipant @martinw]

Petro1head

The table I was referring to can be seen here . and its a 100mm or nominally 4 inch table, other sizes are available depending on what you are intending to do There are other suppliers and some will include dividing plates as well but the price will of course be higher. You will probably need a clamp kit to lock the table down and the stud size of this will be dictated by the slot dimensions of the mill table, initially you could get around this with a few bits of suitable studding and blocks.

Cheers

Martin

 

Edited By Martin W on 05/09/2013 16:51:20

[Gone AwayParticipant @goneaway]

My table is 7" wide. I started with a 4" RT and quickly got frustrated with it. Unless you are machining really small stuff or unless your part has through holes that you can use for clamping, the room taken up by external clamps and the difficulty of getting them in acceptable positions will have you gnashing your teeth (if you still have those).

My 4" was also one of those which has a continuously adjustable vertical angle. Looked good on paper but it would never stay put under cutter load. It was only practical to use it horizontally. I'd strongly recommend against it unless you real need it (and then be prepared to find an alternative way of locking it in position).

I quickly dumped the 4" and bought a 6" ( zero and 90 deg) RT. I'm much happier with that:: it's much more solid and is much easier to set up clamping arrangements. It feels perhaps marginally large for the table but not excessively so and hasn't been a problem.

Bear in mind that larger tables also take up more height which may be a consideration.

In the end, no one can tell you what size to buy for your situation. All they can do is point out the considerations and relate their experiences so that you can make an informed decision.

[Another JohnSParticipant @anotherjohns]

I have two rotary tables; one 5" with a lot of slop in it, and one 4".

The 4" one is a CNC table from Sherline; while it does have a handle on it (graduated), I use it mainly on my CNC'd mill.

I think it's a great thing. No more dividing plates, easy indexing, no backlash, etc, etc.

There are "standalone" division creating devices which you could use for something like this on a manual mill.

The only issue I have with the Sherline stuff is that they use north american threads (UNC/UNF), and while I live in North America, I'm metricsized, so this rotary table is an "odd man out".

Just a thought – Another JohnS

[Martin WParticipant @martinw]

OMG

My set up is pretty small and a 100mm table is all that I realistically use . I agree wholeheartedly that having to use clamps to lock it into place can be a PITA but as yet I have not had it move, famous last words!!

As for quality the Vertex seems to be quite good so I am satisfied with that aspect. As it is often said get the biggest you can fit in or afford and you will reap the benefits of a much more rigid and stable set up.

Cheers

Martin

[petro1headParticipant @petro1head]

Ok, very much appreciate all your input

If my table is 6" will a 6" rotary table fit, here is a photo of the mill just before I bought it

**LINK**

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by petro1head on 05/09/2013 20:08:44:

Ok, very much appreciate all your input

If my table is 6" will a 6" rotary table fit, here is a photo of the mill just before I bought it

**LINK**

.

Does this help ?

MichaelG.

[Keith LongParticipant @keithlong89920]

I would think you'd need to check the dimensions and locations of any mounting points on the rotary table to determine if it will bolt direct to the mill table. The suppliers of the rotary tables should be able to supply this information readily. If they can't go to a supplier that can! In fact I think most of the likely suppliers will have this info on their websites in the adverts for the rotary tables. If the mounting holes aren't in just the right place, the alternative is to bolt the rotary table to a "sub-table" ie a plate, and secure that to your mill. In the latter case you can put holes in the sub-table whereever you need them, You could also fit keys to the sub table to engage the slots on the mill table to make setting up a lot quicker.

[Anonymous]

Another point to consider: personally I'd find a Morse taper in the centre of a rotary table a right royal PITA. A parallel centre hole is much more useful when using mandrels and locating pegs for setting work central on the table.

Regards,

Andrew

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

Thanks Andre. Makes me feel better!

Neil

[Gone AwayParticipant @goneaway]

Posted by petro1head on 05/09/2013 20:08:44:

If my table is 6" will a 6" rotary table fit …. ?

My 6" table is generally similar to the one in Michael's link. When used horizontally there is one bolting point and, in line at the other end, there is a clamping surface for a regular table-clamp. Both locations can use a single slot.

When used vertically, there are two bolting slots at 108.5mm pitch on mine; the slots are 14 x 25 mm so with the likely clamping bolt sizes that you could accomodate you would need slot spacings of between, say, 95 and 125 mm (according to my maths …. feel free to correct it).

However there are also clamping surfaces available for regular table-clamps in the vertical position and there is room to lengthen the slots if you felt inclined (and can hold it in the mill to do so)

On my table there is also provision for a slot-locating key in both horizontal and vertical orientations. You'd have to make the key to fit your own slot (well, that of your milling table actually).

Another thing you might consider is whether it will overhang the table slightly at the back and whether that will restrict y-axis movement.

[Gone AwayParticipant @goneaway]

Posted by Andrew Johnston on 05/09/2013 21:19:00:

Another point to consider: personally I'd find a Morse taper in the centre of a rotary table a right royal PITA. A parallel centre hole is much more useful when using mandrels and locating pegs for setting work central on the table.

I agree. Mine has a morse taper but I'd prefer parallel.

Blank morse arbors can be used to advantage though to make custom centering devices.

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