The thread of assorted Keighley lathe questions

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

Probably gonna have a lot of small dumb questions while using this lathe so a catch all thread seemed a good idea.

First question

Lathe has a 1550RPM single phase motor and a max spindle speed of 600RPM.

A 3 phase two pole motor would give me a max speed of 1200 or 1540 when at 70Hz.

Will the plain bearings of the lathe be able to take such a high speed?

Second question

Any recommendations for bearing oil?

Third

The signs on the head stock and faded and soon might be unreadable if more of the paint chips off. Is there a easy way to remake these signs? I feel like it would need a CNC engraver or mill but I dunno. Assuming I add the faster motor I would need to make a new sign for the new speeds anyway.

Fourth

Thinking of adding this DRO. Would it make sense to pay an extra £16/£32 to get one or both the slides measured in 0.001mm rather than 0.005mm?

[john feeneyParticipant @johnfeeney58965]

Hi,

Fourth Question.

Go for the 0.005 ( 5 microns) you won`t need any better. Not many lathes will be able to turn to1 micron ! and it`s almost impossible to measure with our sort instruments.

John Feeney

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

> The signs on the head stock and faded and soon might be unreadable if more of the paint chips off. Is there a easy way to remake these signs? I feel like it would need a CNC engraver or mill but I dunno. Assuming I add the faster motor I would need to make a new sign for the new speeds anyway.

They look like they are rolled/etched into brass, you should be able to repaint then gently sand/polish back to the metal and then lacquer.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

First – doubtful.

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Although obviously nothing like the original printed paper in plastic laminate is a quickly produces highly legible labels. Durability under workshop conditions is good, the revised UK 2 speed motor chart for my Pratt & Whitney lathe made in this manner is several years old now and still excellently legible. Laminating machines are cheap these days, Lidl (them again!) have one for £20 this week.

I've had some success renovating the brass labels having etched in or standing slightly proud lettering using ordinary car touch up aerosols. Trick is to use multiple light coats, 8 to 10, and buff off with fine wet or dry paper after every coat. Being very thin light, easily controlled buffing shifts the paint from where its not wanted yet leaves enough behind in the wanted areas to eventually get a solid colour. Considerable knack to the buffing. Whenever I've done it I finally get the hang of it about two coats before the end. If you have some, self etch primer makes for a better job.

Spindle probably safe up to 1000 rpm or so. Castrol Hyspin AWS 32 has always been good for me in plain spindle bearings and the like. Any decent branded ISO 32 or ISO25 hydraulic oil with anti-wear additive pack should do just fine.

Clive.

.

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

Will end up fiddling with an inverter and the pulley ratios till I get to 1000RPM then I think.

With the labeling, still not sure how strongly I want to try and keep the lathe looking of its time. If I try to restore then botch the current label I might take that as a sign from above to modernise and use a printer.

Will have to look into making some drip feed oilers to replace the tiny oil cups currently in place.

More questions

1. What would a reasonable maximum size be for chucks? With the 9×24" capacity and 1.5" spindle nose. A manual I got for a Mk2 lathe mentioned a backplate for 6" scroll chucks and 8" 4 jaw chucks. However the Mk2 had a 1.75" nose and ran in taper roller bearings.

I did find it curious that the manual lists separately a 4.5" back plate for a Taylor chuck. I guess they are heavier than the chucks of other makers?

Was thinking about purchasing this chuck

2. There is only 1/2" between the top slide and center height. 1/8" less than a myford. Using arceuros 000 tool post would give me 8.25mm of tool space. Was wondering at what point the thickness of the tool stops being the weakest link of the lathe. 8mm seems pretty thin being smaller than the tooling I use on my 7×12 mini lathe. I am debating taking off the entire top slide and bolting one big tool post onto the cross slide. I have some 25×25 tooling that has been sitting around and I have been debating slitting it into smaller tooling since forever but this might save me that job.

3. Anyone know some plans for a home made milling attachment? I have a vague plan of using round rod to make the slides like a Unimat but would be reassuring to follow a tried and tested plan.

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

Double post :O

Edited By Rainbows on 15/06/2017 22:55:50

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