New Mill – Starter Tooling

[Martin ConnellyParticipant @martinconnelly55370]

If you milled the 8mm slot past full depth first then it would be possible to make a small single edge cutting tool with a piece of HSS (even an old milling cutter that can be repurposed when at the end of its normal life). Rough out something like Ø14mm x 6mm deep knowing you have an easily sharpenable tool that does not need to be pretty or an exact size then clean up to size with the tee slot cutter.

Martin C

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Well all is not lost despite my iffy start, I put a small block of 6082 up and cut a 8 mm full depth (+2mm) slot. Then turned the speed up to 750 rpm and tried the T cutter, it seemed to cut ok and obviously a lot easier to feed in then the slots I cut on the table plate. If I did take the edge off the tool it cant be too blunt as it cut ok second time around.

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

I,ve done the second mod to the mill, in a way quite a major mod as the mill now has reverse yet it is so simple to do.

The small board in behind the mains switch has a small 3 pin connector sitting empty. The male end of a R/C servo lead fits it perfectly, this is connected to a single pole two way on/on switch and thats it job done, forward and reverse.

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Another mod to the mill, fitted a spindle speed DRO. Easy to do, just a bit of metal work to mount the sensor, I thought of making a mount for the small round sensor magnet but it is really strong and shows no sign of movement even at full speed. I wasnt going to bother with a speed DRO and despite the high cost I decided to fit one, total cost £6.70 

Edited By Ron Laden on 05/01/2019 10:32:02

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Forgot to say that the 3 mods I have done so far, the gas strut, the reverse running and the spindle DRO are all taken from the Howard Winwood review on the SX2P.

Well worth a read for anyone with the SX2P or for anyone considering one, you can find it on ARC,s website. There is a link to it under "more" along side the mills specification. He also covers fitting DRO,s for the mills 3 axis.

Ron

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

One of the reasons I fitted the switch and enabled the reverse was to give me machine tapping so I gave it a try and it seemed to work fine. It was a bit awkward reaching around the camera but I tried a couple of M6 threads in some 6082. Since fitting the gas strut the head is nicely balanced and it took very little pressure to keep the head feed in front of the tap (if you see what I mean). The good thing is, the mill stops almost instantly from low revs so its quite controllable for tapping.

The alu test piece is quite thick at 38mm but they were through holes and it will probably be a bit trickier with blind holes. I will have to think of a method to prevent bottoming out the tap but I guess something as simple as a piece of tape on the tap as an indicator allowing me to stop plus a bit before the bottom of the hole would work.

Ron

 

Edited By Ron Laden on 11/01/2019 14:32:59

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

I have changed the gas strut on the mill from a 220mm stroke to a 300mm which has recovered the full head travel from top of column to its lowest position. It meant making an extension bracket to mount the top of the strut and I used a piece of 20 x 10mm steel bar. It worked out quite well as I used the M10 hole in the side of the head which was left over from removing the original spring/lever assy. I also removed the head handle M6 end float adjusting grub and replaced it with a hex head and locknut as the second mount, so no drilling and tapping just used existing holes.

I may never use the lowest position but its good to know its there for anything shallow fixed to the table and the 50mm lost at the bottom with the 220 strut is available again.

A bit awkward to photograph but the M10 hex is at the bottom of the pic with the M6 close to the cable conduit.

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Excellent mods Ron, especially like the power tapping.

Emgee

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Emgee

The mods are simple to do, low cost and make a real difference so I think well worth doing.

Ron

 

Edited By Ron Laden on 03/03/2019 16:40:06

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

I have a small job coming up for a friend which needs a number of 1.0mm x 5.0mm deep slots in a block of aluminium and I immediately thought of a slitting saw. I have no experience of them but as well as this job it could be a useful addition to the tooling.

Looking in the ARC catalogue I see they do a range of sizes of arbors and saw blades, I was thinking maybe the 16mm arbor which has an o/d of 27mm and 63mm diameter blades which would give a cut depth of 18mm. The next size up is the 22mm arbor which I guesstimate would have an o/d of 33-34mm it uses 80mm dia blades giving a cut of around 23mm.

Having never used one and not knowing what jobs or depth of cuts will crop up I am wondering as a starting point which size to go with, any thoughts would be appreciated..?

Ron

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

22mm would also suit metric gear cutters if you need them for your Traction Engine.

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Posted by JasonB on 04/03/2019 16:37:19:

22mm would also suit metric gear cutters if you need them for your Traction Engine.

Thats good to know Jason, thanks.

Ron

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Just out of interest I have had the mill for 5 months now (seems longer) and following advice from you guys I have not got any tooling just for the sake of having it. Every piece of tooling I have I purchased or made for a job, I put it all together this morning and it is amazing how it builds up in a relatively short time. I think it is good advice for all beginners, also it spreads the cost and you can just buy tooling as required and you dont run the risk of having tooling that is seldom or never used. There is still items I am going to need but havnt needed them just yet.

Thanks again for all the advice you guys gave me, its quite a steep learning curve when you are starting out as a beginner.

Edited By Ron Laden on 12/03/2019 08:42:26

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

It looks like you have a good collection of tooling suitable for most jobs. The cost of tooling can be more than the cost of the machine and as you have done, it is best to buy as you need them for a specific job. I also spend a lot of time making jigs to hold the job, so I can utilise the cutters which I already have in my kit. Tooling is expensive and I don't have bottomless pockets.

Good luck with your projects, Paul.

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Nice looking pile of kit there Ron. I think if you have used all that lot you are getting beyond raw beginner stage!

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

It has taken me 8 months since getting the mill but I have just ordered a set of 3 DRO,s from ARC. I have some jobs coming up on the class 22 which will be easier with DRO,s so thought I had better pull my finger out and get them fitted.

[BOB BLACKSHAW 1Participant @bobblackshaw1]

I've noticed your workshop is not insulated Ron, your tools will get damp over winter.

My shed has been lined with just reflective bubble, and now three winters with a small blow heater no damp.

The insulation is easy to put up, cheap, and really effective,

Bob.

Edited By BOB BLACKSHAW on 27/07/2019 10:05:15

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

If Ron fits insulation that will half the volume of his workshop

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

Posted by BOB BLACKSHAW on 27/07/2019 10:03:59:

I've noticed your workshop is not insulated Ron, your tools will get damp over winter.

My shed has been lined with just reflective bubble, and now three winters with a small blow heater no damp.

The insulation is easy to put up, cheap, and really effective,

Bob.

Edited By BOB BLACKSHAW on 27/07/2019 10:05:15

Pictures on this thread Bob are taken in the old workshop, I am now in the 5 star shop which is fully lined with 50mm polystyrene sheets… see below. I also have a massive 42 square feet of space, oh the luxury of it all I just dont know myself. I am even thinking of adding a kettle..

Edited By Ron Laden on 27/07/2019 10:52:18

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

…. I am even thinking of adding a kettle..

 

Edited By Ron Laden on 27/07/2019 10:52:18

And a dehumidifier!

Edited By John Haine on 27/07/2019 10:58:16

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Looking at that lot, I suspect the tooling has already (almost?) exceeded what he paid for his machine, if he compares full purchase price of the tooling against his second hand(?) machine.

If, as I suspect, Ron has ordered the simple(r) dro sets he may later rue not fitting a comprehensive arrangement that copes with all sorts of engineering problems (pitch circle drillings, etc). I kinda made that mistake but the other mill has the ‘all-singing, all dancing’ option.

But he may already be eying changing to a larger mill in the near future – so trying out the cheaper option might not necessarily be a bad decision. My smaller mill isn’t that big, so not so much necessity, perhaps… but dro’s that indicate to only 0.01mm and have a last digit ‘accuracy’ of, say, 2 digits should not be as good as one reading to 0.001mm, even with a last digit error of ‘10’! (yes, iI know one digit can’t have a two digit error)

I don’t see a set of dividing plates for the rotary table. I bought my rotary table long before I used it for the first time (health issues at the time), but it has come in handy for all sorts of jobs since (and the original job it was bought for is still waiting to be completed!). It was a chance to purchase at the right price – looked like it had never been fitted by the modeller who was selling it on.

Apart from the dro mistake, my other was buying sets of tooling – cutters and QCTP (with multiple holders). Some cutters never used and a QCTP, with only the holders I required, would have saved me a few quid at the time.

Like, I will never use the parting-off holder again as it has a sloping blade (so needs re-setting at centre height whenever the cutter is extended or shortened). The rear parting tool, affixed directly to the cross slide, has made parting off so much easier as I no longer need to take as much care, to avoid parting issues, as previously.

[BOB BLACKSHAW 1Participant @bobblackshaw1]

I have a 9×20 lathe with the three phase motor, I have not read all the threads so sorry if this has been said.

The leaver for tightening the belt I never use as I have found that it stretches the belt to much and will twist over on its self.

I only use three pulleys and have adjusted the motor so a tight fit on the three wheels.

I have mucked up quite a few belts before I made the adjustment, at around £12.00 each they get expensive.

Since the adjustment I've had the same belt now for around a year.

If you fit a DRO to your mill it will have to fit on the front as the SX2p has no room at the back, the other mill before the SX2p did have room.

If you need a photo of my DRO on the mill let me know.

Bob.

Edited By BOB BLACKSHAW on 27/07/2019 13:02:52

[Ron LadenParticipant @ronladen17547]

NDYI, I have not added the tooling up but you are correct, it does amount to more than I paid for the mill. I think it easy to forget you can buy a machine at a good price but the cost doesnt stop there, far from it in fact.

Yes I have gone with the basic DRO,s but that is governed by price really £120 is as much as I wanted to spend just at the moment but I think they will be fine for the work I have coming up shortly. Re the rotary table since the picture was taken I have got myself a much better quality RT which has a dividing set, the RT in the pic is just a cheapie.

The QCTP that was with the 918 lathe comes with a dozen holders, like you I would never have bought that many but I wont complain. Also I have a rear tool post on the 918 plus I fitted one to the back of the mini lathe which transformed parting off.

BOB

Early days with the 918 lathe but I am using the belt tensioner and to be honest the pressure it applies doesnt seem that much, dont know if it has been modified or not but it seems fine. The previous owner said that he cant remember the age of the belt but it is a good number of years ago, so fingers crossed.

I am interested to hear you say that there is no room for the DRO at the back of the SX2P, I assume you are talking about the X at the back of the table..? If so that surprises me as that is where I am going to fit it, I have worked out a swarf cover and the brackets etc and dont envisage a problem but maybe I,m missing something..?

Yes I would like to see the picture of the DRO fitted to your mill and also learn more about why it wont fit at the rear.

Thanks

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 27/07/2019 13:49:46

[BOB BLACKSHAW 1Participant @bobblackshaw1]

Ron, I will takes some photos this weekend and put them on this post.

As for the rear fitting, at the time I found a problem so I will take a look at this as well.

Bob.

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Hi Ron,

So you have two rotary tables now? Or was that a case of buy cheap buy twice? I have two identical ones – useful with two mills – but the second only arose because the good quality chuck, fitted to it, was still cheaper buying both than buying only the new chuck separately. As it was, both items were as good as new. No dividing plates with the second, but that is no real problem as the number of times when I might want the dividing plates on both tables at the same time is negligible.

PM will arrive re dro.

[Author]

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