The bed on the 7k one looks rough to me. Not so the 3k one but the ground out bits are odd.
Not encouraging any one to buy but …………..
It's pretty easy to check out lathes like these. Gear heads hardly make any noise at all in fact the motor will make a lot more noise under heavier loads. A hefty piece of fc ms is needed to check the rest out. The diameter needs to be as big as the chuck will take and grip firmly. The sizes look a bit small for the lathe to me on both of them but I'd hope they would take 1 1/2 or better still 2in with 4 or 5in sticking out. It's best to take a decent tool along too. Some dealers will provide a rubbish tool so that people will think that they can do better at home and not even bother to set it up. Apart from taking the skin off bright drawn if the bearings are in at least reasonable condition a cut of around 0.040" should give a decent smooth even bright finish with a moderate feed, not too fine. If a taper is measured afterwards or the tool recuts when it's wound back the bearings are loose/not too good or the bar has bent. If a heavier cut say twice this does give a decent finish the bearings are all most certainly to blame but some lathes are a lot better if the cross slide is set up with a bit of friction rather than being loose. If the bearings are in incredible condition and the lathe has warmed up very light cuts can be taken but vibrations might leave faint marks. The usual sign of slightly worn bearings at reasonable cut levels is rings appearing along the work as it's turned. Increasing the cut will usually get rid of these. It's cause by the cut just holding everything in place and minor variations in the hardness of the material.
I'm not sure what HP these lathes have but I'd guess it's up around DSG levels. They will take 0.250 cuts with a 1/64 per rev feed on bar around the 4 to 5in dia with ease even breaking up or compacting the swarf with a breaker on the tool fast enough to produce blue swarf. That's 1/2in off the diameter in mild steel. This wont do the bearings much good though. From what I have seen of tool room lathes the bearings are shot a long time before the gear heads get noisy or the bed is badly worn. Tool rooms don't ask much of lathes usually as most things made get hardened and ground. Some might have a little used machine about for if needed. When lathes will no longer do what they want they get rid of them and the dealers pay pea nuts for them.
Another factor on lathes of this sort of size and design is that after they have been running for say 20min the head stock will get fairly warm especially at the front. Most will improve when they have warmed up if they have a little or no wear.
Checking out a small lathe is a lot more difficult. The bar is bound to bend.
Chuck size – where I was trained each lathe had a wooden block with it that the chuck could be dropped on without damaging the bed. The blocks also more or less lined up the chuck and were only a few inches thick – the chucks were very heavy too so the blocks were much appreciated. No such luck in tool rooms. Maybe this and cost is why they are often fitted with chucks that look undersized to me.
My training makes me laugh some times. They even had me turning up go – no go plug gauges to insane tolerances for a lathe really and with the right lathe and a well ground tool it's very difficult to tell that they didn't come off a grinder. Trouble is no one does that in the real world any more but if used intelligently and the lathe is up to it it's possible to work to 0.0001in reliably – over short distances at least.
John
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