Makita angle drill chuck

[jon manParticipant @jonman64714]

I got a Makita da4000lr angle drill off ebay, ad said in good working order, i should have known better.

The chuck is 2 to 13mm, it was in the open position and i couldn’t get it to close, it was a liitle rusty so i cleaned the chuck up a bit with a scotch pad and some wire wool, sprayed with wd40, soaked in break cleaner then sprayed again with wd40.

The chuck turns freely from open 13mm to holding a 10mm drill bit but the jaws will not come out of the mouth of the chuck the jaws get to 3mm from the opening, using a chuck key i can close it a little further but it’s a struggle, i’m not sure if it’s rust on the inside of the chuck.

The chuck mouth opening seems deformed/mis shaped compared to a new replacement makita da4000lr chuck photos online.

Do you think this chuck is repairable, should i file new curves into postion with the sharpie dots with a round or half round file, or is it ready for bin.

 

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

I would investigate whether the chuck is made the same as many drill chucks when viewed from the rear. With the jaws below the front surface the outside can be pressed forward using a tube bored to just allow the central part of the rear of the chuck to pass through. It can be done in a large vise if a press is not available.

There have been threads on this forum showing how, or maybe even asking on google may get some help. Ask about “dismantling a drill chuck”. If all fails, then Makita spares shouls have a new one.

[Tony Pratt 1Participant @tonypratt1]

I would return it at the sellers expense!

Tony

[cedric 1Participant @cedric]

I wouldn’t go filing the grooves for the jaws. It’s unlikely to run true if you do that. I’d try soaking the chuck for a few days in some solvent/oil mix or the like. If it doesn’t come good, buy a new chuck. They are not expensive if you don’t feel the need to buy genuine Makita parts.

[DC31kParticipant @dc31k]

As above, the chuck will dismantle in exactly the same way as every other keyed Jacobs chuck in the world.

Do so and assess condition of the parts. It may be that the teeth on one or more jaws are clogged with something.

In advance of a total dismantle, a few cycles in an ultrasonic cleaner could be a short cut. Or submerge in a jar of solvent and sellotape the jar to your orbital sander for five minutes. Anything that produces sustained vibration might knock loose any debris.

Cheapest source I found of a new chuck is this (note Makita part number)

https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/makita-193318-7-drill-chuck-s-13-da4000lr-size-13mm-thread-mount-spindle-type-1933187

 

[hanshawParticipant @hanshaw]

It sounds like the chuck may actually be slightly deformed rather than just rusty. Since the jaws move freely until the last few millimeters and the mouth looks misshaped, the body of the chuck could be warped (often from a drop or a jammed bit).

I’d avoid filing the mouth—chucks have tight tolerances, and removing material can cause poor grip or runout. A replacement chuck is usually the safer and easier fix. You might also consider contacting the eBay seller since it was listed as “good working order.”

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Possibility of swarf on inside, or sometimes in old abused chicks the springs between each jaw that keep them aligned and sprung outwards get pushed out of place or bent. Can you peer inside with a torch and magnifying glass?

[jon manParticipant @jonman64714]

Since posting i watched a couple of youtube videos on disassembly, had it half way apart then the outer case broke into pieces, as they say a liitle knowledge is a dangerous thing.

The mouth was misshaped compared to the replacement photo, also the jaws must have been damaged as i couldn’t push them out of the mouth only to were they would jam up, the chuck was toast, probably why seller sold it.

I agree i should have contacted the seller, thought i’d be able to sort it myself, i can be a numpty some times.

I’ll order a replacement chuck from the link above, thanks for that.

Thnanks everyone.

[Bazyle]

On Bazyle Said:

…the springs between each jaw that keep them aligned

You are confusing a keyed Jacobs chuck (that has no springs whatsoever) with a keyless, hand-tightened chuck on an ‘egg beater’ hand drill.

[jon man]

On jon man Said:

I’ll order a replacement chuck from the link above, thanks for that.

Please do your own search on the Makita part number as you might find something cheaper overall. I did not see what the postage is on the one above and that can sometimes make a difference.

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Ah yes, DC31 right again, type then engage brain.

[DMRParticipant @dmr]

Get the remains of the old chuck off the spindle first before ordering a replacement. You may find that impossible due to the apparent misuse.

Dennis

[DMR]

On DMR Said:

Get the remains of the old chuck off the spindle first before ordering a replacement.

Please, did you study the photograph in the initial post? Could you describe what you see.

The OP would have to be very good at origami to be able to place the chuck onto the perforated paper roll while it is still attached to the machine.

[Chris CrewParticipant @chriscrew66644]

Don’t be fooled by brand names. Makita is made in China, probably in the same factory as a generic chuck which will be just as good for a hand-held drill as the so-called OEM item. The cheap machine tool chucks from TEMU etc. are excellent for just a few pounds, despite being dismissed by those who have probably never had one, so I can’t see the cheap hand-drill chucks being any different. But you pays your money and you takes your choice!

[jon manParticipant @jonman64714]

The Makita chuck for the da4000lr angle drill has a slot cut into the rear that fits onto gearing, i’ve been looking online to see if there is a generic version that will fit.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

Seeing that drive slot, it is unlikely that a generic chuck will be found to fit. As long as the rest of the drill is ok, you might as well get a genuine chuck. A shame you didn’t post photos of both ends. There does not seem to be any threads and it may only be held on the spindle by the centre screw. It would be still worth pressing the outside forward over the front using a bored tube to strip it down and clean it, the jamming might be easier to see and put right.

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