How do I remove a lathe spindle (ML1/2/3/4)

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

There isn't any need to pay a lot for T or Nut link belting. eg

**LINK**

But avoid that black stuff from RDG. The Fenner one is better but not so easy to find in short lengths. These don't use separate links. The link is shaped into the parts that make up the belt. Nut link is a little easier to fit than the metal T types.

Another source that will be cheaper than certain Model Engineer favourites is a local bearing supplier. They often stock belts and may stock link belt. The heat weld round and etc doesn't have much grip unless it's fitted very tightly and even then is only really suitable for rather light work. 6mm or larger might be worth trying on a small lathe but some form of V belt will be better.

John

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[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

Posted by John Rudd on 26/08/2015 15:55:23:

Think I would try a hot air gun on the pulleys before striking the shaft further……..

Cant you place a length of thread rod down the shaft bore and draw the shaft out against the bearing block?

Did you mean like that?

[bodgeParticipant @bodge]

John , you are right , i did mean THAT black stuff. i was trying not to name any particular supplier as RDG are not the the only ones who sell the black crap. Also i should have referred to the Fenner as Power twist ,if bought from a local supplier it is a bit cheaper but not by much for genuine Fenner power-twist, and yes it does look like the white one shown in your link , but if i was after getting a bit more i would still go to local supplier and get the genuine Fenner about twice the price of the white stuff, A lot of local bearing suppliers have a minimum charge of usually 20 quid

bodge.

[bodgeParticipant @bodge]

Rainbows yes like that ,and try a squirt of plus gas or similar on the spindle ,ie, down grub screw holes,in any gaps between bullgear & pulley. it will help a bit

bodge.

[Gray62Participant @gray62]

Chronos sell 'powertwist' belt £24.50 per metre A or Z section. I've used their belting for several years and no complaints. No connection other than a satisfied customer.

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

prefer Nut or T link to any of the twists. I did price up the Fenner one diretc but they only sell it in rather long lengths. That's the price problem as far as the retailer are concerned – they tend to finish up with odd lengths and for some reason wont join them up – at least that's the excuse for the price.

There is probably nothing wrong with the £11 per metre nut link stuff on ebay. That type has been around for a very long time. I decided to fit a new belt as i wanted to get the spindle out anyway – then I found out just how tight the bearing fit was.

John

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[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

I wasn't able to access the lathe due to other commitments so I only just got to doing this again.

Should a m8 stud and spanner be able to do it cause I'm struggling with it. Maybe I have an extra small spanner and don't have the leverage.

I did have oil everywhere I could squeeze it in and there is more dirt under the pulley now so I think it washed some stuff out but my blowtorch is empty so I wasn't able to heat the pulley up.

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

It looks like an aluminium pulley so be careful heating it as it might melt. A hot air gun would be a lot safer.

Most people seem to thing 1/2in / 12mm or bigger all thread is best, BSF of metric coarse and a big spanner or 2.

John

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[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

I think its the bullgear which is doing its best impression of a limpet and needs heating more so atleast thats a cast iron based plus.

[bodgeParticipant @bodge]

Hi Rainbows

The worst thing that can happen if you give it some with the spanners is the thread of the nut on the studding might let go, ie strip, I had the same kind of trouble on my Mangleford, as i said in an earlier post its the bull wheel locking screw that causes the problem, at some point in life its come a bit loose and caused a burr on the spindle. At the point you are with it now, i would reverse the puller assembly , so its pulling back into position ,go gently and see if you can feel for a spot where the tension eases on the spanners, if you feel that point stop there and remove puller assy, put a chuck on spindle nose, rotate till busted part of bull wheel at lowest point now shove a piece of wood in gap between head stock casting and broke part bull gear, now try rotating the chuck, you can use the chuck key for this, you will only be able to apply any pressure in one direction ie tightening the chuck onto spindle, if it moves, even if only a tiny bit , now try going the other way, repeat same again . What your looking is a spot where there is a little bit of movement , then its case of working away it ,then have another go with the puller,you may have to do all this several times ! But it will come off. If you can get 12mm studding through spindle it would be better…..hope this helps

Bodge.

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

I get what you mean with the jiggling it about to smooth off the burr but I'm kinda worried about that method of locking the bullgear. I eventually discovered the reason it crack was because a bit of brass had fallen between the front bearing and bullgear so the fact that wood is softer than the iron doesn't mean it won't break it anyway. The more pieces its in the less likely it will be repairable of course. Do you know of any other ways of locking pulley and gear? I noticed that engaging the backgear works but I haveexpect that might damage the gear teeth.

[bodgeParticipant @bodge]

Hi Rainbows

I know what you mean about "that method of locking the bullgear ." to the spindle, its fix able, but you still got to get to get the thing apart first ..Best not to use the back gear to lock it !! you run the risk of snapping the back gear carrier lug off the head stock, its not the strongest of designs. The idea of using a piece of wood against the broke part of the bull gear and the head stock casting directly under the bull gear transfers the pressure applied to the strongest part of the assembly, i see you have put the bearing housing pinch bolts back in [last pic ] good thinking! using the chuck and the chuck key to turn it you are not going to be using any great amount of force , the plot is to try find a little bit of movement using the least possible amount of force, you got the idea though ,,trying to smooth the burr down is what i was trying to get across, can you get 12mm threaded rod through the spindle ? at the end of the day i think this is how its going to go,smoothing the burr down just makes it go a bit easier.. the 8mm is a bit on the light side, but may be enough,….. see how it goes.

Bodge

[RainbowsParticipant @rainbows]

I think 8mm is the biggest that will pass. However you are probably right on using the wood compared to anything else. Gonna try that tomorrow.

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