Headstock oil

[Robin GrahamParticipant @robingraham42208]

I've had a gear head lathe for a couple of years which I've been running with whatever oil it was filled with when I bought it. I now need to top up the headstock box. The manual unhelpfully tells me to use 'machine oil'. I had a look at the lathes.co.uk site where 'any quality hydraulic oil of the correct viscosity' is the generic recommendation, but I don't know what the correct viscosity is. ISO 32 and 46 seem to be readily available in small quantities. Any advice as to which would be best (or alternatives)?

Robin

[Robin GrahamParticipant @robingraham42208]

[Ian McVickersParticipant @ianmcvickers56553]

I use Nuto H32 in my Bantam headstock and gearbox and it is fine with it.

[Robin GrahamParticipant @robingraham42208]

Thanks Ian, I'll go for ISO 32 then. Presumably that will be OK for the apron too.

Edited By Robin Graham on 04/10/2018 21:08:35

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

The vast majority of folks seem to use ISO32 for almost everything, with some using ISO68 for slideways.

Neil

[Robin GrahamParticipant @robingraham42208]

Thanks Neil, that's reassuring. I still have some (mega) expensive Rocol oil for slideways bought before I realised that I don't need industrial grade stuff for the sort of work I do.

Robin.

[Ian McVickersParticipant @ianmcvickers56553]

I use the same Nuto h32 for general lube on the lathe and on my mill and don't have any issues with it. Although I give the table on the mill a good covering of WD 40, rather than oil, after cleaning it then throw a large towel over it.

[clogsParticipant @clogs]

just to add,

I use the sticky chain saw chain oil on exposed back gears, 5-40w Synthetic D engine oil on everything else except enclosed gearbox's which get Dexron 3 or 4 Auto (red) gearbox oil……….

also when my last bit of Q8 suds oil gets used up will prob go for Hydraulic oil for coolant………

now what da ya think of that………?????????……….hahaha……..

ps. all the oiling points on my S7 and Col / student are now converted to gravity feed……

the stupid original Myford oil can is in my black museum never to b used again……..

and lastly, al my machines are now covered with old blankets and Duvet's with a low wattage, curly whirley bulb in a work lamp to keep condensation away…….they are on 24/7 till the spring…..roll on spring / summer……

clogs

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Use a thin oil as it is there for cooling not so much lubrication and you want it to flow through the bearings which should have a not-blocked feed hole.

[JonParticipant @jon]

They will all flow when they warm up regardless. Hence why theres multi oils ie 0W/40W where the 0W flows when cold.

Head stock gears and transmissions Hydraulic 68 or AWS68 translates to what the quality producers recommend.

[Robin GrahamParticipant @robingraham42208]

Posted by Bazyle on 05/10/2018 08:34:14:

Use a thin oil as it is there for cooling not so much lubrication and you want it to flow through the bearings which should have a not-blocked feed hole.

Not sure if I understand that Bazyle – here is a pic of the rear spindle bearing, looks like it is supposed to be lubricated just by splashing.

According to the manual I should have been changing the headstock oil every 60 days! But then it also says that pillow blocks slideways etc should be lubricated 'once per shift' – so I guess they are accounting for a more punishing regime than in my workshop.

Robin.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

At one time, automotive gearboxes and rear axles used SAE 90 or the Hypoid derivatives, but with the advent of front wheel drive and no bevel or hypoid gears, the need has gone away. Modern car gearboxes seem to run quite happily of whatever oil is in the engine. Engine oils contain all sorts of additives to prevent oxidation at high temperatures, frothing and viscosity improvers, as well as detergents. None of these are likely to be needed if used in the gearbox of a lathe or milling machine, but probably won't do any damage either.

Hypoid oils can be reactive, containing sulphur compounds which react with the gears, to attach themselves to the running surfaces to reduce friction.

Machine oils are likely to be less sophisticated than engine oils, since the temperatures are lower (I hope that no machine runs with an oil temperature in excess of 100C!), and possibly apart from rubbing pressures on the gears, the pressures will be lower.

So, at a pinch, you would probably get away with using an automotive oil. It may even work out cheaper to buy 5 litres of SAE 10W/30 than a small quantity of something specific! HERESY!!!

Howard

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Witham oils (and paints) can sort out and supply any oil specification going. No particular connection with them other than a satisfied customer for all sorts of agricultural/automove lubricants.

[JonParticipant @jon]

Valid point that Howard couldnt agree more.
The own brand or cheap oils think are around £18 5 ltrs, dearer than Hydraulic oil delivered.

Robin there should be some where a fill level, whether a window or just a marker of some sort.
Current lathe has a window for the oil level, spindle gear picks up the oil and splashes it around. Fairly sure oil level at that is below the bottom of the bearings but it does have a top feed as well same with a 140.

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