Farm Boy

[Ian HewsonParticipant @ianhewson99641]

Hi

As you have found, they are close, but there is enough meat in the taper for them. It needs carefully measuments when turning the boss, I nearly made them too small and had the same problem.

Fortunatly the tapered wedges cover any viewing.

Ian

[Ian Hewson]

On Ian Hewson Said:

Hi

As you have found, they are close, but there is enough meat in the taper for them. It needs carefully measuments when turning the boss, I nearly made them too small and had the same problem.

Fortunatly the tapered wedges cover any viewing.

Ian

Yes they certainly are close but as you say due to the taper there is plenty of meat for the screws to hold them in.

[Ian HewsonParticipant @ianhewson99641]

Couple of pics of my finished Farm Boy.

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Very nice Ian. I hope mine turns out like that

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Managed to get the Fly wheel locking collars completed and could not resist a part dry fit with they in place.

I have been putting off cutting a test tube to complete the oiler for the engine. So I tried to use a glass tube cutter which failed, and it shattered, so a good clean up and vacuum got rid of the broken bits. Next I wrapped the tube in some masking tape (I have about ten tubes as that was the minimum I could get at the time) this was gently gripped in the lathe yet strong enough not to slip, a Dremel was used with a small diamond disk and a short section soon parted ways from the tube. This section was rubbed on some very fine wet and dry paper to get rid of any sharp edges (With the tablets I am on if a cut myself it takes forever to stop)

As most of the parts were already made from brass, the only other part was the control needle, which is from silver steel (tool steel depends on where you are in the world). This needed a point on one end and then cut to length and fixed into the top adjustment piece.

The complete oiler ready for the engine once completed as there are still bits that need making. Without measuring it I would say between 1 1/4″ to 1 1/2″ tall.

 

A question about the oiler if you make your own what do you use to seal the glass tube to prevent oil leaks

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

A couple of models I have made supplied cork “washers” about 1/32″ thick. But gasket paper would probably do as would liquid gasket, you can get a clear one.

[JasonB]

On JasonB Said:

A couple of models I have made supplied cork “washers” about 1/32″ thick. But gasket paper would probably do as would liquid gasket, you can get a clear one.

Thank you, Jason

[Blue HeelerParticipant @blueheeler]

Thoroughly enjoyable thread.

[Blue Heeler]

On Blue Heeler Said:

Thoroughly enjoyable thread.

Glad you are enjoying this build. Things have slowed a little as one part I am remaking for the third time down to my silver soldering I have followed numerous people and still managed to stuff it up, I will get there in the end.

 

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

After two failed attempts at the governor assembly, I manage to silver solder the two arms on and now happy with the outcome.

Now onto some other small parts and a base for it to sit on so that I can attach the flywheels.

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

After making some pins I am able to do a test fit of the governor assembly hopefully this makes a little sense where thing go

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Not done much lately. But I have made a start on a fuel tank. Turned the main body and ends which is a cylinder at the moment need to make a filler cap and fuel cut off outlet.

Tank sitting on two blocks which will become the supports

The supports cut from a larger piece which had some holes luckily the hole shown is machined out

 

Here I had machined out the bulk of what was not needed ready for some shaping.

After machining the curved section, they are now a lot shorter but still leaving enough room for an outlet from the tank.

By machining them instead of using solid blocks makes for fixing to base and tank a lot easier as well as lightening the appearance of them.

A test fit of one of the supports, not sure which will look better, the foot facing in or out. Facing in would give a little more room for the outlet if I need to work on it when it is complete.

 

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

More work on the Fuel tank. First a little late I managed to get both stand uprights completed all except the fixing holes. As well as the end cap fixing screws.

 

Onto today drilled the filler hole and fuel outlet this was threaded 1/4″ x40. Turned some brass for the outlet elbow and did the same method as I did for the carbaretor elbow by milling at 45deg most of the way through heating and bending before silvers soldering.

Twisted the tank upside down to show outlet pipe in position. I need to take apart to clean swarf out of the inside

 

 

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Now that I have the tool which I showed in another thread, I have managed to get into the workshop with orders from the wife just to give me a break from my other duties.

The tool I speak of is the spring winder I now have the valve springs made for the engine. I may remake the valves again as I am not happy with them.

Anyway, picture of the valves, springs and caps. This is the first attempt at making springs

 

[Dalboy]

On Dalboy Said:

[…] This is the first attempt at making springs

That looks very encouraging

MichaelG.

.

P.S. __ I do like your fuel-tank supports.

[Michael Gilligan]

On Michael Gilligan Said:

On Dalboy Said:

[…] This is the first attempt at making springs

That looks very encouraging

MichaelG.

.

P.S. __ I do like your fuel-tank supports.

Thank you, Michael, I did have to think of the best way I was going to fix the supports I could have used a solid support, but I felt it would look too heavy for the size of the tank.

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Just a few photos and what I am halfway through on the engine.

First a picture of the spring I made in position on the head.

And all the ignition bits and bobs as well as the spark plug, a 1p piece for scale.

And finally, a part machined plastic piece to hold the wiring and sensor. A magnet will be in a part attached to one of the flywheels, which I have yet to make.

Still needs some machining, but this shows where it will fit

 

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Been machining the fly wheels today first was the governor flywheel drilling and tapping the holes for the governor weights and machining the groove on the inside.

Onto the second flywheel again, milling a groove on this one also. This was followed by drilling a hole in each spoke to hold the pulley that fits on the side. While it was set up, I milled the seat for some small blocks which the pulley will eventually fit onto. These are attached with some JB weld now, waiting until tomorrow before drilling for a bolt to secure them so that I can turn a curve on them

 

 

 

Machining the flats for the mounting blocks

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Final work on the last flywheel before painting.

After leaving for a good 24hrs for the JB Weld to set and securing with bolts from the back the step to align the pulley was machined. (I forgot to photograph, so this is just mocked up)

 

Locked the flywheel down onto the pulley removed the original bolts and drilled a clearance hole right through and fitted the bolts to secure the pulley.

Turned over with the bolts the right side still need to secure them as waiting for some nuts to arrive

As can be seen this was made easier by the use of the platter I made, well worth the effort making it

Next job they need painting

 

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Made a start on the base unit for the engine today, put both pieces through the thicknesser and the large base over the surface planer, bringing both to size and square.

 

Marked out the bottom for some hollowing out where the electronics will sit out of sight. Not worried about the knot as most of that will be removed from the bottom and the small amount that is on the top will be hidden under the other piece.

 

Test with the engine in place to see how it will look, I will chamfer all the main base edges top and bottom to give the appearance of a thinner base.

 

 

 

 

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

That’s looking really smart.  Nearly there!

Rod

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

👍..watching with interest ‘cos I’m going to have to do one soon and I don’t have any woodworking equipment apart from HSS shell mills..

[Diogenes]

Thank you guys.

On Diogenes Said:

👍..watching with interest ‘cos I’m going to have to do one soon and I don’t have any woodworking equipment apart from HSS shell mills..

Look forward to seeing your progress when you start.

Today I hollowed the base for the electronics also took the engine apart so I could reach the securing holes which will be the next job.

 

I took the bulk out with a forstner bit and wood router leaving a very small margin which I took out on the mill, this meant all the shavings stayed in the hollowed out portion as long as I stopped and vacuumed out regularly. I had to do it that way as I did not have a router bit which would reach the full depth but did have a 1/2″ milling cutter.

I still need to drill some holes for the wires to the sensor hopefully keeping them out of sight and one other for the spark plug lead.

 

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

Base finished took longer than expected as went down with a chest infection followed by the wife being rushed into hospital, both now on the road to recovery.

So ready to assemble the engine onto it. I had to remove the hopper assembly so that I was able to get all the securing holes in place. This was done before the final finish was applied, as I needed to drill extra holes for wiring.

The hole on the side is covered by the sensor bracket and the other which has the earth and spark plug leads has a brass insert to make it look tidy.

 

 

Underside showing the wire holes and the fixing holes for the engine

 

 

Engine first fix the studs are brass as the base is oak and I felt that steel would not react with the tannins in the wood very well

 

 

Sensor bracket in lace but not yet attached, this is to hide the wires as well as hold the sensor in place

 

As described above, exit hole for earth and spark plug lead.

 

[Author]

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