2011 – 2014 aluminium

Advert

New Replies

Report Bug

Help/FAQs

2011 – 2014 aluminium

This topic has 9 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 23 September 2018 at 15:54 by martin107.

Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)

Author

Posts
23 September 2018 at 11:12 #372830
Ron Laden
Participant
@ronladen17547
I am about to buy in some aluminium stock bar, any thoughts on the choice between 2011 and 2014. I have read that they both have good strength with the 2014 listed as having good machining qualities and the 2011 having excellent machining.

Is there much difference between, it sounds as if either would be a good choice..?

Ron
Advert

23 September 2018 at 11:12 #9343
Ron Laden
Participant
@ronladen17547
23 September 2018 at 11:26 #372833
Journeyman
Participant
@journeyman
Have a look at *** Materials4me *** (part of Thyssen Krupp) they sell aluminium and have some data on their products. Have a rummage about the site for more useful info like painting aluminium etc.. I have used them a few times good service and sensible pricing.

To answer your original question, 2014 would seem best choice as it offers better corrosion resistance. More info on *** AALCO *** site.

John

Edit: typo

Edited By Journeyman on 23/09/2018 11:32:24
23 September 2018 at 11:38 #372838
Anonymous
Personally I wouldn't bother with either unless you really need the additional strength. Remember that the machining guides are for high speed, high power production machinery. I don't recall machining 2011 but I have machined 2014. It does machine well, using carbide tooling, but is somewhat abrasive due to the silicon content.

I'd go for 6082T6 as a general purpose aluminium alloy, It machines well and is widely available in a range of forms.

Andrew
23 September 2018 at 11:46 #372839
Emgee
Participant
@emgee
Ron

I use 6082T6 which is widely available at sensible prices, it is not as easy to machine as the 2011 which is free cutting and comes off in small chips as opposed to string on 6082 if the chipbreaker isn't working.

Emgee
23 September 2018 at 12:01 #372844
Journeyman
Participant
@journeyman
As an addendum to my earlier answer, I would agree with others that 6082T6 is probably the best bet, it is easy to find and machines well. Most of the bits I have made are from 6082T6, have never tried either of your original choices.

John
23 September 2018 at 13:12 #372858
JasonB
Moderator
@jasonb
As Andrew says 2014 which is basically the old HE15 is strong but a lot more expensive and harder to find in a range of sizes it mostly only gets used by model engineers for conrods on aero engines. Rest of the time 6082T6 which is the old HE30 will do.
23 September 2018 at 15:04 #372885
Ron Laden
Participant
@ronladen17547
Thanks guys, that is helpful.

It just shows that you can learn something everyday. I dont know much about the subject but for some reason I had it in my head that 6082 was a harder and stronger material than the 2000 range. I see from the specs though that 2014 for instance is stronger than 6082 and by quite a margin.

It now makes me wonder what grade my machinist friend gave me for the buffers I need to make. The material is quite hard work with HSS tooling on the mini-lathe and when I cut the blanks to size with a hacksaw I found it much harder than I expected, I will have to ask him.

Jason, you are right re the pricing, having checked costs 2014 seems to cost 50% more than 6082.

So 6082T6 looks to be the way to go.

Thanks again guys

Ron
23 September 2018 at 15:16 #372887
Neil Wyatt
Moderator
@neilwyatt
2000-series are the old Dural. They are stronger than 6082 but are more are prone to stress cracking.

6082 is strong, cheap and also easier to anodise. I do agree it is prong to long spirals of swarf, I have a large binful as proof…

Neil
23 September 2018 at 15:54 #372896
martin107
Participant
@martin107
I use 9/16" and I can only seem to get it in 2011, you are quite correct it chips rather than long strips but 2011 suits my needs as the things I make with it need the extra strength.

Martin
Author

Posts