Fixing side-tanks and cab to running boards

This topic has 3 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 22 April 2011 at 19:24 by Weary.

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22 April 2011 at 15:15 #67346
Tony Martyr
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@tonymartyr14488
I was intending to investigate this question at the Harrogate Show but the closure of the camping area at the show-ground (Why?!) and the cost of fuel has led me to cancel the trip.

What is the generally accepted way of joining the cab and integral side-tanks to the runner-boards on a 31/2″ loco? I have fitted brass angle along the base of the cab area and at the leading end of the side tanks and it is clear that attaching it along their length will pull the running boards nice and straight.

Is it usual to screw the parts together with nuts under the boards or rivet the four parts (2 x boards + 2 x sides) together permanently ?

of course if I rivet I will have to paint or at least prime the parts before fixing.

I can’t really wait until the Midlands Show in October to look at other engines to find the best alternative!

Tony
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22 April 2011 at 15:15 #5487
Tony Martyr
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@tonymartyr14488
22 April 2011 at 17:20 #67356
Philip Rowe
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@philiprowe13116
Hi Tony

Don’t know if this is an accepted method by the ME fraternity, but on my Rob Roy and Spencer (both 3.5″) I soft soldered some offcuts of 1/4″ brass into the bottom of the tanks during construction and then secured the tanks to the running boards with 3mm screws from underneath the running board into blind tapped holes in the brass offcuts.

So far – (about 15 years for Rob Roy) there have been no problems, nor any leaks and it does allow the tanks to be removed quite easily.

Phil
22 April 2011 at 19:24 #67358
Weary
Participant
@weary
I like to make the tanks ‘self-contained’, with their own internal bases flush with the bottom of the sides. I then secure the tanks to the running boards using captive bolts soldered in the bottom of the tanks, to be nutted underneath the running boards. I realise that this is rather wasteful of material as it requires a brass tank base and some additional angle or similar, but it makes a very sturdy structure, makes sealing the tanks with solder easy, and they are easy to remove and replace as no seals are disturbed in doing so.

If you go for this system or some variant of it I suggest that you plot out the position of the bolts very carefully to ensure that they are easily accessible beneath the running boards and do not conflict with any valve gear or other structures. You can probably guess why I make this additional comment!

Regards,

Phil
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Fixing side-tanks and cab to running boards

Fixing side-tanks and cab to running boards

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