..pretty sure that the feedscrew is Acme form, mine is 5/16 x 12tpi.

There might be a couple of unworn turns right next to the handle end where you'll be able to see the original profile.

I suspect the chances of anyone having a new one are very slim indeed.

Ha ha, I don’t suppose you know what OEM stands for, either. Most people know these common acronyms.

But nevertheless, no need to post expletives to get your point across. Gives the impression of drink related from my POV. Sometimes, less language is better?

To the OP.

Doubt it is too difficult to make a new feed screw from scratch, but an alternative would perhaps be to source (or turn) a piece of the screw thread and join it to the rest of the current feed screw parts, after removing the old threaded section and carefully preparing the ends so they can mate together and be fixed in that position.

Regarding the female thread – can that be bored and bushed? Suitable taps are (relatively) easily available, for cutting the thread.  Another possibility might be to use the next size up for the threaded parts, if appropriate.

Failing on those options, I would expect the current threaded hole could be filled in and reworked.

Edited By not done it yet on 14/05/2022 07:10:51

NOS – New Old Stock – ubiquitous in classic car and bike worlds

My first lathe was an ML4 and the cross slide screw is indeed 12 tpi, which whith dials calibrated to 80 divisions is a recipe for making parts consistently undersize. Go do the maths, but don't ask me how I know! Anyway, I still have the tap I made to cut a bronze nut whichh was loctited and grub screwed into the saddle.

Having said that, if I was doing it all again I would use 20 tpi which I think could be 3/8 BSF (or isit 5/16?), then remake some decent size dials.

If you want the 12 tpi tap, PM me.

Martin

Is it possible to open up the original threaded hole and fit a top hat bush with two screws (a la ML7) and fit it with 2 ba screws.