EN1A or EN8 which is best for hot bending?

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EN1A or EN8 which is best for hot bending?

This topic has 6 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 24 May 2020 at 18:45 by Chris V.

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24 May 2020 at 16:54 #474528
Chris V
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@chrisv
Good evening all,

I need to make a couple of tight 90 degree bends in 3/8" round steel bar.

Heat source to warm it up will have to be all I have, a couple of butane/propane mix gas lamps from the DIY store.

Out of the two, EN1A or EN8 which would be best to use, or is there nothing to speak of in it?

The parts are replacements for a turnbuckle tensioning device for bench countershaft. One end of each will be threaded, probably after bending.

Edited By Chris V on 24/05/2020 17:16:33
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24 May 2020 at 16:54 #27395
Chris V
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@chrisv
90 degree bends in 3/8″ round bar
24 May 2020 at 17:17 #474535
Chris V
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@chrisv
As I need to make them longer…
24 May 2020 at 17:35 #474542
Thor 🇳🇴
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@thor
Hi Chris,

If the turnbuckle is for your lathe – as shown in your second photo – I doubt you need a medium carbon steel like EN8, it can't be a high stress situation? EN1A is a free-cutting steel so I guess it would be easier to thread. If you use EN8 let it cool slowly after bending to prevent hardening before threading.

Thor
24 May 2020 at 17:51 #474545
not done it yet
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@notdoneityet
I suggest you only need to make one? The clockwise threaded one would be the better choice? Thread before bending? – Easier to fit the bar in the lathe for threading before bending. Threading too much and needing to shorten is far better than better, unless you are worried about aesthetics.🙂
24 May 2020 at 18:26 #474556
vintage engineer
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@vintageengineer
Either will be suitable. I would thread them first. And like Thor said just leave them to cool slowly so as not to induce any hardness.
24 May 2020 at 18:45 #474565
Chris V
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@chrisv
Thanks to all three of you.

Ok EN1A and I will thread it first. I did think of doing that initially but I am concerned when I put it in the vice hot to bend it will get marked/deformed. I guess I could make a split pinch block so at least I'm cramping with a round former, and maybe something similar for the free end to save marking that.

What the photos don't show is the threads have both been shortened and as I will be using a flat belt, possibly leather I want all the adjustment I can get to take up the stretch. Plus the other end of each where the holes are are not long enough to go through the castings and allow washer & split pin. Neither the turn-buckle, countershaft nor lever arm came with the lathe which explains why they don't quite fit. Had it not been for these reasons yes I would only be replacing one and yes the RH threaded one! (I found out why earlier today…££!)

Good aesthetics, yes of course! (-:

Cheers

Chris.
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