Restoration of bench drill

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Restoration of bench drill

This topic has 26 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 7 February 2015 at 10:21 by Ian S C.

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4 February 2015 at 12:04 #178420
andrew winks
Participant
@andrewwinks64215
Hi all

I have started cleaning up an old Waldown bench drill of an era when Australia had a machine tool industry. Its in good condition, not bad for $50 at an auction and a solid machine at that, but the apprentice(s) must have had a hatred for the table as you can see.

I've thought of filling in the holes with JB weld or similar as a cosmetic fix but wondering whether its worth it. There's probably enough undamaged surface to just use a vice. Has anyone had experience with the repair of these? Certainly don't want to put heat anywhere near it. (nor will the rest of the machine get any new paint!) Cheers

Andrew
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4 February 2015 at 12:04 #23702
andrew winks
Participant
@andrewwinks64215
4 February 2015 at 13:52 #178424
Gordon W
Participant
@gordonw
I am not one for tarting things up, esp. tools, but I would have a go at that table. JB weld or similar, just to fill the hollows and stop a build up of coolant sludge.
4 February 2015 at 14:17 #178426
Gordon A
Participant
@gordona
Hi Andrew,

You could get a piece of gauge plate cut to size and bolt it onto the surface of the table with countersunk screws.

Gordon.
4 February 2015 at 17:55 #178438
“Bill Hancox”
Participant
@billhancox
Andrew.

I am not sure how much coin of the realm that you want to put into your project. Having said that, the series of holes appears to occur in a uniform arc radial to the pillar. An option would be to have the arc of holes slot milled and a piece of matching material machined to fit the slot. Might even be accomplished by bending a piece if bar to fit the slot. All followed by a milling of the table to bring everything to plane; grinding if you are really fussy.

Bill
4 February 2015 at 20:43 #178465
Johnboy25
Participant
@johnboy25
Hi Andrew.

I have an old Viceroy floor standing pillar drill that has been abused by means of numerous artistic drillings on the adjustable table. I don't have the facilities to preheat and fill in the dimples with weld but what I had thought about and I'm sure I'm going to hung out to dry on this 😉 ! – was to fill the drillings up with a hard epoxy then skim off to flatten it down to the original metal surface. I don't know if there is a suitable ITW Devcon product available which has metal filler that would do the job. Just a thought😀

John

Edited By Johnboy25 on 04/02/2015 20:45:47
4 February 2015 at 21:10 #178471
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
Posted by Johnboy25 on 04/02/2015 20:43:19:

… what I had thought about and I'm sure I'm going to hung out to dry on this 😉 ! – was to fill the drillings up with a hard epoxy then skim off to flatten it down to the original metal surface. I don't know if there is a suitable ITW Devcon product available which has metal filler that would do the job. Just a thought😀

.

John,

I presume that's exactly what Andrew had in mind when he mentioned JB-Weld.

MichaelG.

.

P.S. … I think Bill's suggestion is excellent.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 04/02/2015 21:11:39
4 February 2015 at 21:11 #178472
Neil Wyatt
Moderator
@neilwyatt
> suitable ITW Devcon product available which has metal filler that would do the job.

That's just the sort of thing JB Weld is, you can use it to mend cracks in cylinder blocks.

Neil
4 February 2015 at 21:17 #178473
andrew winks
Participant
@andrewwinks64215
Good advice all. I'll chew it over some more.

Andrew
4 February 2015 at 21:21 #178474
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
Posted by andrew winks on 04/02/2015 21:17:50:

… I'll chew it over some more.

.

That table has been chewed-over enough already !!

MichaelG.
4 February 2015 at 21:24 #178476
andrew winks
Participant
@andrewwinks64215
True that!
4 February 2015 at 22:16 #178479
Robbo
Participant
@robbo
Andrew,

Had a similar problem with a pillar drill, and just cleaned out the holes and filled them with "plastic metal" so as to present a smooth surface and stop them getting filled with gunge.

There was no loss of structural integrity, so that was all that was needed.

Phil
4 February 2015 at 22:23 #178483
andrew winks
Participant
@andrewwinks64215
Yes, I agree, probably the easiest way.

I haven't used JB Weld since late 70's and unsure as to the quality these days or better alternatives.

Any suggestions?

Andrew
4 February 2015 at 22:48 #178486
Anonymous
JB Weld doesn't seem to have had it's recipe changed like a lot of other "gone green" products, I'm still using it and can't see a difference from years ago.
4 February 2015 at 23:11 #178489
Jesse Hancock 1
Participant
@jessehancock1
Are you sure that what you have isn't the phases of the moon and summer solstices?

School was the last tiime I saw anything like that.

Oh joy I can still see the metal work teacher as he convulsed red in the face and his fists clenched white at the knuckles.

Jesse.

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 04/02/2015 23:14:07
5 February 2015 at 04:23 #178497
Roger Provins 2
Participant
@rogerprovins2
Posted by Jesse Hancock 1 on 04/02/2015 23:11:25:…………

Oh joy I can still see the metal work teacher as he convulsed red in the face and his fists clenched white at the knuckles……….

I worked in a school for many years and we used to send a bill to a child's parents for damage to school equipment.

We couldn't enforce it but many paid up, hopefully with a few strong words to their offspring.

Roger
5 February 2015 at 10:08 #178516
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
You can make quite a good filler for Cast Iron. Araldite or similar, and fine Cast Iron chips from the lathe(fine as you can get, mix the two together, clean out the holes, and fill them, the deep ones might be best if filled in two or three goes. The finished patch should be almost as hard as the table it's self.

Ian S C
5 February 2015 at 10:17 #178518
martin perman 1
Participant
@martinperman1
Ian,

When I repair the bakelite/plastic caps for magneto's I mix carbon dust with Araldite to match the black of the cap.

Martin P
5 February 2015 at 10:31 #178521
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
Posted by martin perman on 05/02/2015 10:17:14:

When I repair the bakelite/plastic caps for magneto's I mix carbon dust with Araldite to match the black of the cap.

.

That's interesting, Martin

Doesn't that risk problems with H.T. 'tracking' ?

MichaelG.
5 February 2015 at 10:42 #178523
martin perman 1
Participant
@martinperman1
Michael,

Never had a problem, I use it for cosmetic purposes on the outside, cracks and breakage.

Martin P
5 February 2015 at 10:59 #178526
Michael Gilligan
Participant
@michaelgilligan61133
Posted by martin perman on 05/02/2015 10:42:13:

Michael,

Never had a problem

.

Good to know … Thanks

MichaelG.
5 February 2015 at 13:07 #178543
Bazyle
Participant
@bazyle
When you think about what the table does in a drilling machine filling it with chewing gum will be adequate. Chew a bit of liquorice too to get a colour match.
5 February 2015 at 15:02 #178564
Jesse Hancock 1
Participant
@jessehancock1
Roger, I went to school in Australia… My parents bought everything I used down to the last paper clip and pencil. In metal work you had to pay for any materials used and a percentage towards wear and tare on tools benches. Indeed I remember not only giving my parents a bill for two glass covers used in science class but I also received two strokes of the cane across the backside for breaking the first one. Happy days.

Jesse.

Edited By Jesse Hancock 1 on 05/02/2015 15:02:52
6 February 2015 at 10:21 #178663
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
If you were worried about insulation you could crush up some old Bakelite to powder/fine chips.

Ian S C
6 February 2015 at 10:49 #178671
Russell Eberhardt
Participant
@russelleberhardt48058
Carbon black pigment is available both in conducting and non-conducting forms – don't know how it's made non-conducting though.

Russell.
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