I have a HSS tool ground 45deg on each side like a 90deg threading tool, held along the lathe axis it will do both internal and external corners.

Edited By JasonB on 01/08/2020 16:04:44

Since the burr usually needs to be removed when the part is finished you could just use a hand deburring tool when removed from the chuck I use a Noga tool – excellent for remiving both external and internal burrs.

+1 for Jason’s solution and I notice this is a popular method with YouTube demo’s.

Mike

This might not be relevant to the post but it could help.

I have a tool like Jason's but the other end I use during parting off. It's set in a quick change tool holder to be on the exact centre of the parting tool. At some time during parting off I change tools and I can take the burr off the back off the component and put a nice little chamfer on the next at the same time. Swap back to parting tool and finish the parting off.

I use a broken 6mm carbide end mill shank. I ground a 90-degree point on it then ground it flat across the diameter. Put a tiny radius on it and set it into a piece of cold rolled with a grub screw to hold it.

It does inside bevels, outside bevels and it'll take light facing cuts.

I generally de-burr the rim of a bore by hand BUT (see Clive Foster's advice) with the machine OFF and the tool out of the front QCTP.

Using a scraper-type de-burring tool takes only seconds but seems to work better on larger diameter bores.

Another way, which needs a bit of deft twiddling, is to generate the tiny bevel with the top-slide and cross-slide together – best on the outer perimeter and where the chamfer is not critical, within reason.

I like Pete Rimmer's idea though, for the reasons he says; and in fact made a set of tools on that principle for my EW lathe.

Get thee behind me, Satan.

Although I showed the lathe tool that I use it comes out more when I want a very slight chamfer as opposed to just taking off a burr, for that I may use a file which is a narrow pillar file with the end teeth ground off and shaped like a scraper so depending on hole I may use the end or the cutting teeth.

Also have the hook type deburring tools and for small holes I use one that has a CSK type tool on a cranked handle that is very good for holes less than 6mm. Or I may just hold a CSK bit by hand and hold it in the hole as the lathe is coming to a halt.

The OP is asking about deburring drill and/or bored holes in the lathe. If you have a DRO fitted why not set the top slide to 45 degrees so the tool that has just bored the hole can deburr or chamfer the hole? The DRO takes care of length measurements so the top slide becomes somewhat redundant and therefore ideal for finishing off the job with a nice chamfer.

Both my lathes have DRO's, the "default" position for the top slide is 45 degrees, anyone else do that?

John

I use a long half inch square toolbit mounted in a Dickson toolholder ,the tool protrudes out each end of the tool holder ,one end is ground with a 45 degree angle plus some top rake so that it will chamfer say the end of a bar from a tiny chamfer up to a large chamfer, the other end of the tool bit is ground with a 45 degree chamfer plus top rake and with lots of front clearance similar to a boring bar so that it will again produce a fine chamfer or a large one. the tool is a permant fixture in the tool holder , to cut internal or internal chamfers all that is required is to rotate the main tool holding block through 90 dergrees,or just change the position of the tool holder. this works well and will deal with most materials including brass on my Colchester.For the Myford I have have a similar set up with a long 5/16 square tool bit though I find that the top rake does not cope with brass so well so I also have a zero rake similar tool. when instrument making usual shop practice was to use a M&W 3 cornered triangular scraper for bores, mainly in brass turning, and a very fine 6 inch file for taking the edge off external corners ,sometimes a graver would be used if a sharper profile chamfer was required , personally I found the M &W scraper a bit too large ,so made a finer scraper from a 4 inch triangular file with a turned up wooden handle,60 years later I still have it. The long toolbit chamfer tool was not my idea,I found one in a box of tools donated to me,the property of a deceased toolmaker,its in constant use and have the Dickson holder visiblaly marked so that I can grab it quickly.

Does not look like it gives a 45deg chamfer to me unless you were to mount the holder at an angle?

Something more like this that holds square inserts at 45deg would give what you say you wanted