Which files should I buy

[Bruce EdneyParticipant @bruceedney59949]

[Bruce EdneyParticipant @bruceedney59949]

I know there are different types of file ( was looking at bastard, 2nd cut and smooth today) but was wondering what people use the most.

Most of my work with a file is for finishing in BMS, aluminium, and brass

I am thinking of getting a set just for brass as I have read that once used on steel they won't be as good on brass.

Any advise appreciated.

Bruce

[john carruthersParticipant @johncarruthers46255]

I use Vallorbe/Grobet files now, mainly an 8" second cut. Best money I've spent on tools.
I get mine from Axminster, there are many other suppliers.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=vallorbe+files

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

I do 90 per cent of my filing with two files: a 10" bastard for roughing and a 10" mill saw file for finishing. Both have the teeth on one edge ground off to make a "safe edge" for filing into corners etc with cutting the adjoining surface.

An 8" warding file is handy for tight spots too. And an 8" half round, square and three-sided files are right handy as well.

A set of small needle files and some riffler files can be handy when you need them, but not often used.

[Eric CoxParticipant @ericcox50497]

Any engineering supplier such as cromwell tools, buck & hickman, jones and clark will have what you want. To start with you will probably want "flat" "half round" "round" "three square" (triangular) 8" as suggested. Needle files and dreadnoughts come later.

If you buy a file without a handle, to fit a wooden handle heat the "tang" (the pointed bit) to dull red and push the handle on. Don't try and hammer it on cold.

[Roger Provins 2Participant @rogerprovins2]

This is something I must tackle. I have a great many files but many (most) are worn out, it's time they were recycled and I bought some nice new ones but I keep putting it off. Seeing those 4" Vallorbes at Axminster I think I'll make a start by getting a set of those as I know I'll use them all and it'll spur me on to sorting out a list of what I need of the larger ones. That's the plan anyway

[egaParticipant @ega]

For small files I favour the kind of handle fitted to gravers – a truncated mushroom shape which fits nicely in the palm and whose flat stops the file rolling off the bench.

This is a Stubs. No doubt someone can give the correct name for the shape.

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

It's a barrette file. I have no idea why it's called that or, indeed, why I know the name – I haven't got one. Why can I remember that and not what time I've got to go the dentist?

Rod

[egaParticipant @ega]

Roderick Jenkins:

Thank you! That certainly looks right. I can't answer *your* question but the human memory is a strange thing and doesn't always do what it is bid.

In trying to locate a reference to barrette (without resorting to the internet) I came across the "fusiform" or "cigar-shaped", a double-ended triangular file which would definitely need a handle!

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

There is a thread on files here with information from one of the file companies.

Ian S C

[JAParticipant @ja]

Remember what ever files you buy you will also need a filing card, a file wire brush, to clean the files.

I buy files when needed and seem to have an awful lot. As you said it is a good idea to keep files for copper alloys separate from others. Buy the best you can afford. As for size etc, it depends on what you are doing. I have found that erring on the small side is wise. And I don't like plastic handles.

JA

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

For cleaning single cut files, flatten the end of a bit of copper tube, 1/2" will do, and push this in line with the teeth of the file, it will take the shape of the teeth, and dig out the gunk.

Ian S C

[egaParticipant @ega]

JA:

"I have found that erring on the small side is wise."

No doubt, but the conventional advice is to the contrary: use the largest file that will do the job.

I'm with you on the plastic handles

[egaParticipant @ega]

Barrette:

I finally ran this down in a Simonds (American) catalogue where the description reads "Used to remove burrs from gear teeth and for filing corners and flat surfaces. Double cut on the wide flat side and safe (uncut) on the narrow beveled back." It is, of course, of Swiss Pattern and is trapezoidal in section.

Surprisingly, not listed in my similar-vintage Sandvik-Öberg catalogue.

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

Vallorbe from Axminster. 2nd cut for larger sizes and maybe 1st cut for 100mm ones but 2nd cut are ok at that size too but smoother than I expected.

Forget slightly bent Stubbs files that flatten with the right pressure on them at larger sizes – these are Swiss so may well bend. However I haven't bought a 12" or larger so they might. I have a huge Polish 3 square one that can remove serious amounts.

John

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[IanTParticipant @iant]

My simple answer Bruce would be get the best you can afford. For smaller work Swiss files are very good ("Swiss" as made in Switzerland – e.g. Vallorbe) and a set kept just for brass will last a long time (probably a lifetime in my case!). Consider the work you need to do and have a 'roughing' file and a finishing file – the actual size will depend on the size of your work (like many things discussed on this Forum).

Personally – I don't use a file card on my better files – I have pieces of brass that get pushed across the face to clean them up. Much kinder and they rapidly become the right 'fit' for the file.

One other thing I've not seen mentioned in this thread – is that it is very useful sometimes to have a safe edge (e.g. no teeth) on one edge of your files – saves inadvertently cutting things that you don't want to. I'm not sure what the norm is in this area but I've seen some (cheap/unbranded) ones recently that had teeth on both edges.

Regards,

IanT

[OuBallieParticipant @ouballie]

Bruce,

Your third sentance is correct.

They don't immediately skate across brass, but when they do after some usage on steel, the air turns blue in frustration.

I now have two sets, having learned from experience.

Geoff – Oh the pleasure of a file that does as designed.

[Anonymous]

Posted by IanT on 08/01/2016 14:57:21:

One other thing I've not seen mentioned in this thread – is that it is very useful sometimes to have a safe edge (e.g. no teeth) on one edge of your files – saves inadvertently cutting things that you don't want to. I'm not sure what the norm is in this area but I've seen some (cheap/unbranded) ones recently that had teeth on both edges.

Errr, in the third post? I don't think that safe edges are a case of cheap versus expensive; it's more the range that the manufacturer cares to offer.

I use Vallorbe needle and riffler files. However, I have a need to revamp my larger files. Anecdotal evidence suggests that my older (70+ years) files still cut well, but newer files, bought from commercial tool suppliers, seem to wear fairly quickly.

I have in my mind that Nicholson (?) files are supposed to be good quality? Does anybody know if this is the case?

Andrew

[AjohnwParticipant @ajohnw51620]

I mostly use 4" files on the lathe plus a 6" with a safe edge. I also use 6" in round, 3 square and half round.but not much. The 4" are the set of Vallorbe that Axminster offer.

Personally I think that Vallorbe are well priced really. There are some cheap decent sets of 4" 100mm usually referred to as warding or machinists files that can be ok. The have orange dimpled plastic handles with a "keyhole" in the end of them for hanging them up.

These seem to be they – ebay number 301835661840 – except for the handle colour.

"Dirty job files". I've had my set for a very long time and am pretty sure I paid more than £1.50 for them. Mine came off Graham Engineering when they had a showroom in West Brom and they assured me that they were ok. They have been too.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 08/01/2016 16:50:39

[Raymond AndersonParticipant @raymondanderson34407]

Andrew, Re, Nicholson files , They used to be amongst the best ,but the current ones the quality is not as good.

I would suspect they are not even made in the US of A any more ,but stand to be corrected. I prefer Pferd ,as I have had them for years and they are still sharp. They are quite pricey but very good files.

[bodgeParticipant @bodge]

I have in my mind that Nicholson (?) files are supposed to be good quality? Does anybody know if this is the case?

Andrew

Yes they are on a par with Stubbs. or at least used to be . If you can still get them ?

b.

[john carruthersParticipant @johncarruthers46255]

>>I have in my mind that Nicholson (?) files are supposed to be good quality? Does anybody know if this is the case?<<

Yes, the older Nicholson files were good, I have a SnapOn branded set of Nicholson warding files from the 70's, as good as the day they were made.
I believe their newer files are sometimes stamped 'Brazil'

Edited By john carruthers on 08/01/2016 17:59:02

[HughEParticipant @hughe]

Andrew,

I have some Nicholson files from years back and they are still very good. I bought some about 8 years ago made in Brazil one was fine the other lasted 1 job before having nice shinny ends on the cutting edge, suspect they were rejects that should have found their way into the skip. Buy from somebody you can trust!

I was told to add chalk when filling ali which does help to prevent clogging.

Hugh

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

For big stuff 2nd cut is useful for me, but different people have different preferences. I have a nice big millenicut-type file with ridges rather than teeth that eats metal.

Small models demand small files and I had an excellent a Vallorbe 'needle file' for many years. Must replace it, its worth having just one.

Otherwise I treat small cheap swiss/needle files as disposable and bend or grind them if and when required.

Neil

[Bruce EdneyParticipant @bruceedney59949]

Thanks everyone for the discussion. I have not seen Vallorbe or Nicholson brands in NZ but I do know of some other good brands. I will have a good look at some of our Engineering suppliers when I get home from holiday.

Thanks again.

Bruce

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