What Did You Do Today 2019

[OxymoronParticipant @oxymoron]

Finally complete my first engine. It's far from brilliant, learnt loads whilst building it, especially about machining sequences and checking the plans are right before drilling holes. But it RUNS

And hopefully Ive worked out how to post photos. Now a video is the next challenge!

Dave

[Brian HParticipant @brianh50089]

You should be very proud of yourself with that, Dave, well done!

Brian

[OxymoronParticipant @oxymoron]

A crude video of the V10 running. Sorry about the quality, just wanted to prove I could add a video.

Dave

Edited By Oxymoron on 11/02/2019 16:16:04

[OxymoronParticipant @oxymoron]

Thanks Brian, yes, very pleased its a runner but feel could have done better. On to another project I think.

Looking back to your silver soldering earlier in this thread, that is very impressive. I struggled to solder the crankshaft for this little Stuart, I've a lot to learn.

Dave

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Well done Dave; always a nice beginners engine, always gives you that 'chuffed' feeling when it runs for the first time.

George.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Well done Dave – making a 10V truly is a rite of passage.

Neil

[Jeff DaymanParticipant @jeffdayman43397]

Well Dave, a runner is a runner, and it looks terrific. You have achieved something many others have not. I'm sure you have learned all manner of new skills and improved others you had already. Great job! Onward and upward.

[OxymoronParticipant @oxymoron]

Thanks for the kind comments Guys.

Santa bought me a book by 'L. C. Mason' so I'm sure you can guess what my next project is. Just hope I'm not getting too ambitious. Stand by for questions………

Dave

[Martin King 2Participant @martinking2]

Oxy, well done! it looks great and has inspired me to make some time to get on with mine, also my first go at an engine. If it turns out as well as yours I'll be a very happy bunny!

Cheers, Martin

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Not actually 'done' but received a 50 ml bottle of Loctite 638 high strength retainer ordered off eBay, at a what seems to me a reasonable price… £9.99… compared to the standard 10 ml bottle price… £7.99 ( average ). Should see my days out as I don't use a lot on what I make at the mo'…

Usual disclaimer applies.

George.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Something strange occurring, George

Your 638 photo is in your album, but not displaying in your post.

**LINK**

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/albums/member_photo.asp?a=37853&p=824350

MichaelG.

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

I guess it got stuck !
BobH

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Strange; it's showing ok when I open post at my end ?…

George.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Curiouser and curiouser, George.

Your earlier post still shows a blank frame with "loctite 638.jpg" at the top.

Your later post shows the image.

MichaelG.

.

Edit: Just realised that the file reference in the earlier post is a link

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/images/member_albums/69121/824347.jpg

… did you move the image from one album to another ?

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 12/02/2019 22:48:09

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Nice 10V Oxymoron!

If built to drawing, running it fast exposes the lack of counterbalance to the crank, and it's hard to find a solution that justifies pulling it to bits again.

I just delivered 30-off carriage window sash locks to the local steam railway, for whom I do volunteer machining. This has made me think more seriously about getting a QCTP, because the 4-way on my WM250V can only really take 2 tools of normal length. I could use a single tool to turn the parallel and thread diameters and do the undercut behind the thread, but was still left with the knurl, the radius undercut for the chain hook, and the the domed end on the 2nd op after parting, and the changes inside the cycle got a bit tedious.

A small capstan would've come in 'andy…

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

MichaelG… methinks I did.

Mick B1… nice bit of batch production there.

George.

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Mick, nice work, a small cnc lathe would be a simple solution,

Emgee

[John MCParticipant @johnmc39344]

A few years ago i was given most of a horizontal mill, I have the space for it so rather than see it go to the scrappy I gave it a home. The intention was to convert it in to a surface grinder, but after some thought a second mill would be far more useful, particularly a another vertical.

Eventually I acquired a suitable head to adapt to fit the machine, specifically one from a Chinese lathe/mill. This had a 3MT taper, I need 4MT so the tooling is interchangeable with the other mill, so made a new spindle with a 4MT.

But how to get the taper running absolutely true? I've done this in the past by finishing the taper on the mill by angling the head over at the right angle with a boring bar clamped vertical on the table , that is to say finishing the spindle off its own bearings.

Problem is that the head does not have the tilting facility. The attached photos show how I did the job. I borrowed a second fixed stead so I could "clamp" the quill to the lathe bed and used a cranked carrier to drive the spindle, (from a chuck jaw). I was pleasantly surprised at the rigidity of the setup.

John

[John HinkleyParticipant @johnhinkley26699]

Great exitement in the household today – well, MY half of it, anyway – because the surface grinder arrived by pallet courier and I've unpacked it to check if it has sustained any damage en route from the Orient. None, so far as I can see, so, engine hoist out tomorrow and wriggle it into what little room there is left in the garage/workshop.

Hopefully, I'll now be able to make high precision errors in my machining.

John

[Andy CarruthersParticipant @andycarruthers33275]

Fixed the donkey saw by adding weight to the hacksaw end – now it cuts rather than skates across the surface

Messed around with the WM180 banjo, 3D printed another to try out new geometry in the hope of adding a tumbler reverse gear, way to go yet, but it's promising – or I could wait until I can afford a half-decent lathe

Tried the mig welder which has been sat for a while – no joy, looks like the control board has a fault, intermittently feeding wire, motor is fine, another thing to fix

I was going to weld up a bracket to tension the shaper motor, but I'll have a G&T instead, slimline…

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Made a new whistle spindle for the S160s – big WW2 American locos, of which our railway has 2.

There were 2 questions I had to ask the top loco fitter – was the 13 thou back taper on the shaft of the original meant to be there? and is that approx. 1" spherical radius on the valve seat surface critical, or can I just offhand-grind a form tool and finish with emery wet-and-dry?

Answers were that the taper's spurious, so I turned it parallel within about a thou, and the seat's supposed to be a 45 degree cone, so that's what I did. They'll soon let me know if there's an issue – but I've seen that loco fitter practically rebuild one of the S160s, and he's in the middle of an 8F now, so I'll not be arguing with him!

I can hear the S160s whistle from my house on a quiet day, so it'll be nice to hear it work as and when it's fitted.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by mechman48 on 12/02/2019 22:16:55:

Strange; it's showing ok when I open post at my end ?…

George.

Note: those are 150mm tiles

[Perko7Participant @perko7]

Finally got some time abusing metal after several weeks filled with house renovations. Managed to make a start on the loco buffers by turning up the shanks. Once they are done I can turn my attention to the housings and then the buffer faces. Just need to find a lump of 50mm dia steel bar which I can slice up with the bandsaw.

[Joseph Noci 1Participant @josephnoci1]

Once must be careful when starting a post with ' I Finally completed my XYZ thingy…'.!

Some post back I showed my 'finally' completed stepperised rotary table/Hobber and the electronic controller I made for it.

The controller did angle steps, division steps , continuous rotation and a hobbing mode. And that was done…

But, I had left out some very obvious requirements..The is no manual mode to rotate the table manually, as you would a none electronic table, and no way to jog the table to a set position to begin stepping from of hobbing from.

So..Here is the finally finished all new version…With a manual mode and the controls a little better consolidated.

Had to make a new housing for it – the last ( nice) plastic box was all used up and I could not find more..

Ready to bend..

And to paint..

And the new front panel engraved and routed.

Paul White ( also a fellow forummer) iis going to built one as well, but with some added features – he has two rotary tables , one small, one large, with different gear ratios, and a gear hobber with yet a different gear ratio and autofeed on the hob.

Also a few more controls..

So Paul's panel functions are so:

Joe

[Ian McVickersParticipant @ianmcvickers56553]

Decided that I needed a more robust fly cutter so dug out a bit of round bar and got to work. Ended up with a decent looking fly cutter which fits into a 19mm collet. The cross bar is 25mm diameter and drilled to accept a 12mm Hss bar. Now I need to learn to grind the Hss bit correctly and get some test cuts done.

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