What Did You Do Today 2019

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Posted by daveb on 19/04/2019 17:40:44:

Adams oiler was leaking on my ML7, (it's about fifty years old but appeared to be in excellent condition, apologies to other ML7 owners who will know what comes next!) would empty itself over two or three days. I had a good look at it, oil seemed to be leaking past the needle. I removed it from the machine, couldn't see any problem with it, I thought there might be some debris holding the needle off the seat. So it took it apart, I carefully examined the plastic bowl for cracks – nothing! I checked and cleaned the other parts and decided to reassemble. When I picked up the plastic bowl, it fell apart into four pieces, there were cracks radiating out from the hole in the top. It seems that removing the top nut allowed the bowl to change shape and crack. I still don't know why it was leaking but I don't suppose it matters now.

I'm now looking for some 30mm glass tube. Have you seen the price of small drip feed oilers?, 50ml ones are about £3.50 frim China, why are they asking £22.50 for 25ml ones?

Daveb

plenty of perspex tube on ebay at about £8 per foot

[davebParticipant @daveb17630]

Posted by duncan webster on 19/04/2019 23:00:59:

Posted by daveb on 19/04/2019 17:40:44:

Adams oiler was leaking on my ML7, (it's about fifty years old but appeared to be in excellent condition, apologies to other ML7 owners who will know what comes next!) would empty itself over two or three days. I had a good look at it, oil seemed to be leaking past the needle. I removed it from the machine, couldn't see any problem with it, I thought there might be some debris holding the needle off the seat. So it took it apart, I carefully examined the plastic bowl for cracks – nothing! I checked and cleaned the other parts and decided to reassemble. When I picked up the plastic bowl, it fell apart into four pieces, there were cracks radiating out from the hole in the top. It seems that removing the top nut allowed the bowl to change shape and crack. I still don't know why it was leaking but I don't suppose it matters now.

I'm now looking for some 30mm glass tube. Have you seen the price of small drip feed oilers?, 50ml ones are about £3.50 frim China, why are they asking £22.50 for 25ml ones?

Daveb

plenty of perspex tube on ebay at about £8 per foot

Thanks Duncan. I was looking for glass because the perspex seems to get brittle after 50 years, I'd have to do the job again in 2069.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

but the glass is brittle from day 1. I got some lengths of glass tube for a sight feed lubricator from a scientific glassblowing company in Chester, might have been these men **LINK**

They supplied cut to length and flame sealed. If not google is your friend

Edited By duncan webster on 20/04/2019 11:02:25

[Steve King 5Participant @steveking5]

Picked up this little beauty seems to have had very little use because scraping marks are still visible on all slideways

[davebParticipant @daveb17630]

Posted by duncan webster on 20/04/2019 11:01:56:

but the glass is brittle from day 1. I got some lengths of glass tube for a sight feed lubricator from a scientific glassblowing company in Chester, might have been these men **LINK**

They supplied cut to length and flame sealed. If not google is your friend

Edited By duncan webster on 20/04/2019 11:02:25

Thank you Duncan, useful info.

Daveb

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Started making a tool holder for tool post drill, nothing complicated just an ally collar to fit the neck of a Clarke high speed drill, another nice to have item.

George

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Finished off tool post drill holder for lathe,

After drilling, boring, set up for alignment check…

Checking for alignment square to chuck… looks good t' me!

Centre height should be spot on as ally plate drilled with spotting drill held in 3 jaw

George.

[PlasmaParticipant @plasma]

This is the front facade of the fixer up property I'm currently working on. As you can see we have a little scaffolding up at present. Been on the roof all day fixing splits in the lead roof covering.

[Brian HParticipant @brianh50089]

Is that your new workshop?

Brian

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

I carried on putting items back on my traction engine after finishing most of the painting. Drilled the fire box skirt that protrudes below the foundation ring to attach the ash pan. Fitted a pipe between the mechanical oiler and oil check valve on the steam chest. Cut the steerage chains and attached them. I need to get better quality shackles as the ones I had are a bit cheap and the threads feel like they will strip is I tighten them too much

Every bit is a bit nearer to steaming.

Bri

[PlasmaParticipant @plasma]

A run out to rugely to collect a bandsaw, pryor bench marking punch and two 3 phase motors courtesy of Ebay. 225 mile round trip but pleasant and met two really nice gents into the bargain.

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Baker's dozen M6 flanged bolts in LG2 for two gauges in a casing, probably for the diesels in the local railway. The flanges are to cover oversized location holes in the square gauge facings, which in turn fit over threaded inserts for the M6s – so I used a 15mm. diameter flange and a 12mm AF hex.

Hex was milled in a vice on the vertical slide on my Warco WM250V, using the bit of larger tapped hex MS as a (sort of) jig, with a locknut in a counterbore at the far end.

I used a slot drill to cut the flats, which threw up lots of burrs, so I needed a threaded split sleeve to face, chamfer and deburr afterwards.

[Joseph Noci 1Participant @josephnoci1]

Posted by Steve King 5 on 20/04/2019 20:14:01:

Picked up this little beauty seems to have had very little use because scraping marks are still visible on all slideways

Super Little Shaper you have there! Very nice! Do you intend to clean, polish and paint it?

I wonder how many more of these gems lie hidden in strange places all over the world!

Joe

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Mowed the lawn .. before the rain comes over

George.

[Andy Rodgers 1Participant @andyrodgers1]

I made a GoPro camera mount for my son's kayak. Faced off a short length of 35 dia. alloy bar. Clearance drilled and counter- bored to take an M6 cap head screw.

Andy

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Plasma on 22/04/2019 19:19:26:

This is the front facade of the fixer up property I'm currently working on. As you can see we have a little scaffolding up at present. Been on the roof all day fixing splits in the lead roof covering.

Second home?

[Steve King 5Participant @steveking5]

Posted by Joseph Noci 1 on 24/04/2019 15:16:36:

Posted by Steve King 5 on 20/04/2019 20:14:01:

Picked up this little beauty seems to have had very little use because scraping marks are still visible on all slideways

Super Little Shaper you have there! Very nice! Do you intend to clean, polish and paint it?

I wonder how many more of these gems lie hidden in strange places all over the world!

Joe

Probably just a clean up and put it to good use.

[Johnboy25Participant @johnboy25]

Ian P – “I have a question about the actual 'O' ring you used. The majority of seals easily available are black in colour. I have seed silicone rings which look red/brown and some green 'O' rings, what type are the ones in the picture and who stocks them?”

Ian… if my memory serves me well – the red or orange ‘O’ rings are high temp silicon, the green ones are Viton (we used these on multi fuel systems in engine test bed applications) and the standard black ‘O’ rings are Nitrile. (I’ve noticed these are uv resistant)

There is an ‘O’ ring specialist in Aldershot, Hampshire under the name Mantek **LINK** unfortunately they have dispensed with their trade sales counter so it’s technical help only by ‘phone. The type should be easily obtainable. I hope that helps.

‘Usual disclaimer – no affiliation with firm but I’ve bought from these before.

John

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Posted by Johnboy25 on 25/04/2019 08:43:56:

Ian P – “I have a question about the actual 'O' ring you used.

Ian… if my memory serves me well – the red or orange ‘O’ rings are high temp silicon, the green ones are Viton (we used these on multi fuel systems in engine test bed applications) and the standard black ‘O’ rings are Nitrile. (I’ve noticed these are uv resistant)

There is an ‘O’ ring specialist in Aldershot, Hampshire under the name Mantek **LINK** unfortunately they have dispensed with their trade sales counter so it’s technical help only by ‘phone. The type should be easily obtainable. I hope that helps.

‘Usual disclaimer – no affiliation with firm but I’ve bought from these before.

John

Thanks John, I will try the supplier you suggest, most of the stockists I have tried will supply silicone rings but usually to special order withe large minimum quantities.

Ian P

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Posted by Johnboy25 on 25/04/2019 08:43:56:

Ian P – “I have a question about the actual 'O' ring you used. The majority of seals easily available are black in colour. I have seed silicone rings which look red/brown and some green 'O' rings, what type are the ones in the picture and who stocks them?”

Ian… if my memory serves me well – the red or orange ‘O’ rings are high temp silicon, the green ones are Viton (we used these on multi fuel systems in engine test bed applications) and the standard black ‘O’ rings are Nitrile. (I’ve noticed these are uv resistant)

There is an ‘O’ ring specialist in Aldershot, Hampshire under the name Mantek **LINK** unfortunately they have dispensed with their trade sales counter so it’s technical help only by ‘phone. The type should be easily obtainable. I hope that helps.

‘Usual disclaimer – no affiliation with firm but I’ve bought from these before.

John

All the viton ones I've ever bought were black, not quite as shiny as nitrile

[Johnboy25Participant @johnboy25]

Ian P

correction – I should have said the nitrile ‘O’ rings are not UV resistant. 😳 (Dyslexic)

Duncan – thanks for that. I’ll try to put that into my memory 👍

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

It may be that the red silicon rubber seals have a greater temperture range. We used red silicon rubber lipseals on engines that were going to used in temperatures of the order of -40C, where the black Nitrile seals would be too stiff to seal properly (Their limit seemed to be around -25 / -30C )

Howard

[David George 1Participant @davidgeorge1]

Hi all I bought a Newing-hall engraver cutter grinder a while ago for sharpening carbide tools with a diamond type wheel. I have only just got round to making a tool support as the original tool support is only for round cutters and here is a few pictures of my effort.

David

[Perko7Participant @perko7]

Finally got around to silver-soldering some steel components of my built-up coupling rods. Only chose this method due to lack of ready access to a milling machine to mill from solid.

Surprised how easy it was once I had sufficient heat. Ended up putting too much solder in some areas as it flashed through the gaps very quickly once melted so I was a bit unsure of whether there was enough to make a solid joint, hence added a bit more 'for good measure'. Turns out I shouldn't have.

Despite all advice about needing absolute cleanliness, managed to solder in solid some temporary spacers made from black mild steel that had only had the mill scale cleaned off with vinegar and were otherwise untouched. Seems like Tenacity flux works pretty well even on dirty steel.

Now to clean up, drill and ream holes for bushes and fit to loco. Will post some photos when they look decent enough.

[Nigel Graham 2Participant @nigelgraham2]

Today? Well, had a rest from engineering by going caving! I did enter the workshop on my return home, but only to collect the bird-seed and top up the feeder: the sparrows are eating me out of house and home!

Yesterday though… a few more hours making the umpteenth aluminium or PVC item to fit the DRO to the Myford milling-machine, trying to think how and where the vertical magnetic strip will go, so what I am building to carry the cross (Y) feed sensor won't prove to be in its way.

I used the now-installed long-travel (X) read-out for two parts, only to find they don't go together quite as neatly as hoped because I'd unwittingly mirror-imaged the datum ends!

[Author]

Posts