What Did You Do Today (2016)

[Martin King 2Participant @martinking2]

Hi All,

I recently bought a large lot of circular slide rules at auction and was just going through the few that remain and came acroos this 4 page FEARNS-MEAR technical leaflet about Worm Gears. Sadly the slide rule it goes with is missing.

Reading this thread it may be of use to someone, if so please PM me with your addressand I will send it on.

Regards,

Martin

[Mick HenshallParticipant @mickhenshall99321]

Duncan I second your comment re pistol grips on power drills, many years ago in the RN we used drills with handles at the back in line with the drill like the belly braces have,much easier to use I think they were Wolfs and Bridges types,gave plenty of control, why I wonder did it ever cbhange

Mick

[Cornish JackParticipant @cornishjack]

Sam L 1 and Bob R – points re. stability (lack of) well taken!!

The intention is not to make this a constantly mobile operation, but to allow me to move it from carport to garage/workshop on the level on my own. Once in position, it will be solidly attached to the structure. One-man endeavour has, on occasion, to modify the best of H&S!

rgds

Bill

[Bob RodgersonParticipant @bobrodgerson97362]

Bill,

not quite as bad as I thought but be careful when you love it, don't try to roll it over any slight bumps, stop and move around the obstacle or sweep the floor very clean before moving it.

[V8EngParticipant @v8eng]

Speaking as somebody who has moved an ML7 between workshops single handedly, I would not risk it again!

Mine was unwieldy especially with a motor fitted, likely to go over without much encouragement.

I have to move it to a new location shortly and will definitely be getting help, I am about 15 years older than last time which would not improve matters.

Edited By V8Eng on 27/10/2016 13:19:04

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Mick Henshall on 27/10/2016 09:56:53:

Duncan I second your comment re pistol grips on power drills, many years ago in the RN we used drills with handles at the back in line with the drill like the belly braces have,much easier to use I think they were Wolfs and Bridges types,gave plenty of control, why I wonder did it ever cbhange

Mick

The answer is that you can't hold a big drill against the torque of a hefty bit with an in-line handle.

My big one has blooming great handle as well as the D, essential (if inadequate) with big drills, and a bloomin' big threaded boss for another one on top.

Neil

 

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 27/10/2016 14:31:17

[Swarf, Mostly!Participant @swarfmostly]

Posted by V8Eng on 27/10/2016 13:04:51:

Speaking as somebody who has moved an ML7 between workshops single handedly, I would not risk it again!

Mine was unwieldy especially with a motor fitted, likely to go over without much encouragement.

I have to move it to a new location shortly and will definitely be getting help, I am about 15 years older than last time which would not improve matters.

Edited By V8Eng on 27/10/2016 13:19:04

I agree that the ML7 is 'unwieldy'. When I moved house my strong, willing but untutored assistant was taken unawares by the weight of the motor resulting in one of the raising block studs getting bent! Perhaps I should have given him the tail-stock end?!

On arrival at the new premises I had to get the lathe from the car at the kerb-side to the workshop at the bottom of the back garden. This was managed quite successfully with the machine riding in a builder's wheelbarrow with me providing the lift and forward 'oomph' and my (petite) wife walking alongside to apply extra 'roll correction' when needed. The barrow has a pneumatic tired wheel that happened to be just the right pressure, neither too hard not too soft. I think the job would have been far more difficult if the barrow had been fitted with a solid tire. (I initially typed 'tyre' but the software here objected to that spelling!)

On arrival at the workshop door, we manhandled the lathe up a scaffold board ramp on to the workbench – that got it to a height that matched the lathe cabinet stand just three feet away. From there, it was a two-person lift across the gap.

I wish my workbench top were as clear today as it was back then!!

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

[MuzzerParticipant @muzzer]

Posted by Cornish Jack on 26/10/2016 23:42:14:

The hardest bit was erecting the engine lift – 80+ years and a knackered knee and back are not a good recipe for heaving large section metal about!!

Both parties seem to have survived intact, although the lift method suffers from the same flaw that my machine mover discovered the hard way a couple of weeks ago. The centre of gravity is high up (I would guess somewhere around the foot of the actual machine) but the lifting point is acting on the feet of the cabinet. Furthermore, the strap is looped under the base. So as you lift the whole contraption, it is top heavy and there is very little to prevent it toppling over, either forwards (with the strap slipping on the base) or (more likely) sideways. Once it's started, it is't going to want to stop.

If you want to see what a top heavy 3 tonne machine does when it is lifted by looped straps through the feet, take another look. I wish I'd been there to see it go – I was sweeping up the receiving area at the time and nearly had kittens when I saw it. Luckily I was able to right it again without anything getting nadgered.

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Posted by duncan webster on 27/10/2016 00:34:04:

Finished drilling over 300 holes for linking the rails for track circuiting at our club. Am I glad that's over! Question, why don't they put the handle on electric drills in line with the drill, it would get rid of that twisting action on your wrist.

Duncan

There have been a few responses to the question you posed but I'm still unclear as to what orientation of handle-to-chuck axis, you think would be better?

More or less everything that a person can hold in one hand requires the wrist to provide support of some sort.

No idea how big the holes are that you were drilling but a Dremel type tool has the handle 'in line' (concentric) to the axis.

Ian P

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Duncan,

For modest capacity drilling … Get hold of [literally] one of these, and see if it fits your hand.

https://www.howetools.co.uk/bosch-gsr10-82lilbox-2x2a-10-8v-drill-driver-10mm-keyless-chuck?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=COWurbGU-88CFeQy0wodn1sO_A

They're not as robust as one might hope, but they are compact, beautifully balanced, and the drill axis is surprisingly close to the fore-arm axis.

MichaelG.

[Cornish JackParticipant @cornishjack]

Muzzer et al

Thank you for your concerns, which were, indeed, taken on board. I've just completed the move, no dramas (or crises!) and the Myford is now safely tucked up in its proper place. Now to see if I can get the VFD back into operation … THAT really does worry me

rgds

Bill

[Sam Longley 1Participant @samlongley1]

Posted by Ian Phillips on 27/10/2016 15:05:44:

Posted by duncan webster on 27/10/2016 00:34:04:

Finished drilling over 300 holes for linking the rails for track circuiting at our club. Am I glad that's over! Question, why don't they put the handle on electric drills in line with the drill, it would get rid of that twisting action on your wrist.

Duncan

There have been a few responses to the question you posed but I'm still unclear as to what orientation of handle-to-chuck axis, you think would be better?

More or less everything that a person can hold in one hand requires the wrist to provide support of some sort.

No idea how big the holes are that you were drilling but a Dremel type tool has the handle 'in line' (concentric) to the axis.

Ian P

When i had my joinery business I had air screwdrivers, for speed, that were rather like the dremel to handle. My joiners moaned ( well actually they moaned at just about everything) if they had to use them all day screwing the risers into the backs of treads using the screwdrivers as they were such an awkward angle to hold. They much preferred the standard battery drill type screwdrivers.

I do recall, however, earlier Black & Decker drills where the handle was in the end of the drill at right angles to the shaft. If they snagged they gave ones wrist a right old twist. Especially as the early B & D were really powerful drills & could be sent for relatively cheap service & came back with a gold paint to indicate refurbished

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 27/10/2016 16:06:57

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Plenty of drills still made with the handle behind the chuck axis, just look at all the SDS and SDS+ drills, these can all be used without the hammer function for large drills like core bits, mixers and augers as well as drilling metal. Also unlike the old "gut buster" type drills Neil showed they have a safety clutch so you won't get wrapped around them when the bit jams.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Posted by Swarf, Mostly! on 27/10/2016 14:51:51I initially typed 'tyre' but the software here objected to that spelling!)

That's possible because you have the wrong language installed? Quite happy with tyre here!

Neil

[Ed DuffnerParticipant @edduffner79357]

Spent most of today under and over the car (SAAB 95 1999 2.3t).

I was offered a job this week (hopefully this means some modelling projects in the near future) and in between going for the interview and getting the confrmation the car decided to blow its turbocharger. I have an oil leak around the sump seal and the oil blew out starving the turbo which then failed and started emptying oil into the air intake. This is the second time. A replacement turbo costs £550 or so but I managed to get just the inner cartridge a lot cheaper from a UK company who also balance them. It's been a bit hectic! Hopefully I can get it fixed before I start the new job or it's bus and walk for a while.

Ed.

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

The Myford habit of falling over backwards is easily cured by bolting a decent thickness of timber (2" x 1" won't do) across the cabinet feet, front to back, and sticking out about 18" at the rear.

Castors can be attached, or movers placed under the ends of the timber.

[Swarf, Mostly!Participant @swarfmostly]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 27/10/2016 18:04:58:

Posted by Swarf, Mostly! on 27/10/2016 14:51:51I initially typed 'tyre' but the software here objected to that spelling!)

That's possible because you have the wrong language installed? Quite happy with tyre here!

Neil

Hi there, Neil,

Thank you for your suggestion. I've just checked my Windows settings and I'm on English (UK) that's in Win 7, 64 bit.

Or were you referring to a language setting on this web-site?

By the way, in this posting window, all the instances of 'tyre' have wiggly red underlines.

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

I'm assuming you don't use the site's built in spell checker (defaults to English and accepts tyre) , but one that's a plug in for your browser? I use one in firefox and that accepts Tyre too as it's set for UK english.

If you use Microsoft a browser, I would expect it to use the windows dictionary/language.

Neil

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Dirty cylinder 

Clean cylinder 

 

Drove to Ashington mended a machine drove back 6 hours driving 4hours mending machine. At least it did not rain🌅

99.9% water .1% Sodium hypochlorite 

Used to wash your operating theatre. 

Amazing how it crystallised. 

 

Edited By Boiler Bri on 27/10/2016 20:22:53

[martin perman 1Participant @martinperman1]

I'm glad I'm not the only daft bugger, I've got to do a four hour service on an industrial washing machine tomorrow in Leeds with a six hour drive thrown in, I can only assume i've upset somebody in the office to get this job on a Friday.

Martin P

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 27/10/2016 15:15:12:

Duncan,

For modest capacity drilling … Get hold of [literally] one of these, and see if it fits your hand.

https://www.howetools.co.uk/bosch-gsr10-82lilbox-2x2a-10-8v-drill-driver-10mm-keyless-chuck?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=COWurbGU-88CFeQy0wodn1sO_A

They're not as robust as one might hope, but they are compact, beautifully balanced, and the drill axis is surprisingly close to the fore-arm axis.

MichaelG.

I can se the difficulty of resisting the torque if there was only a handle at the back. What I find myself doing is holding the handle in my right hand to get the drill started, then pushing on the end of the drill body with my left. If I just use the handle one handed, my wrist starts to complain after several 10's of holes as it is having to resist the off axis force of the drill. You'd think they would employ some ergonomics and put a flat area or a second handle at the back to push against. I'm only drilling 3mm holes, but I'm getting old and achy joints!

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by duncan webster on 27/10/2016 20:34:15:

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 27/10/2016 15:15:12:

For modest capacity drilling … Get hold of [literally] one of these, and see if it fits your hand.

… You'd think they would employ some ergonomics and put a flat area or a second handle at the back to push against. I'm only drilling 3mm holes, but I'm getting old and achy joints!

.

Duncan,

That's why I mentioned the Bosch … excellent ergonomics!

For 3mm drilling, it's the best single-handed drill I have used.

MichaelG.

[BSc Ergonomics with Human Biology, a long time ago]

[Clive HartlandParticipant @clivehartland94829]

A few years back i was using a heavy duty B & D drill, this had a handle at the front that could be set at any angle and was on little square blocks. I was drilling some damp would and the drill stuck and twisted and the front handle shifted on the plastic squares allowing the drill to swing around and breaking my third finger by twisting. I should have had a go at B & D, I could not work for a week or so until the swelling went down. Even now I can feel the broken joined bone in that finger. If it had been metal it would not have twisted out of the clamped handle.

Clive

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 27/10/2016 21:27:43:

Posted by duncan webster on 27/10/2016 20:34:15:

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 27/10/2016 15:15:12:

For modest capacity drilling … Get hold of [literally] one of these, and see if it fits your hand.

… You'd think they would employ some ergonomics and put a flat area or a second handle at the back to push against. I'm only drilling 3mm holes, but I'm getting old and achy joints!

.

Duncan,

That's why I mentioned the Bosch … excellent ergonomics!

For 3mm drilling, it's the best single-handed drill I have used.

MichaelG.

[BSc Ergonomics with Human Biology, a long time ago]

Regarding ergonomics, this tool drill is in a different league to most drills on the market nowadays.

Ok is not battery powered and not being double insulated needs a 3 core mains lead. I have it fitted with a very flexible silicone cable, the drill is quite light weight and I have often used it 'upside down' held like a die grinder.

One of its best points is that the top of the drill is about the same height as the OD of the (small) 1/4" chuck so it can drill holes very close (16mm) to an obstruction. Engineering wise it is a really well optimised design, its fully ballraced with two layshafts in the gearbox to reduce the small diameter, very high speed armature to a sensible value without having a large diameter final gear.

Its done, and still does, sterling work so my original 12 Guinea investment was a bargain.

Ian P

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

That looks a very sensible design, Ian

What make is it ?

MichaelG.

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