Warco WM 16 drawbar ejection

[Matt Homer 1Participant @matthomer1]

really having to hammer drawbar to eject MT chuck or drill chuck

[Matt Homer 1Participant @matthomer1]

Had issues with this ever since had mill….really struggle to eject collet chuck with M10 drawbar and have same issue with 3/8 drill chuck arbor.

Presume you have to loosen off retaining nut a bit then loosen off the drawbar 3 turns then tap with rubber mallet ??

Don't know if I have a particular tight MT spindle or I am tightening up the drawbars too much but I really have to goto violent measures to knock the chucks out …. I have even took retaining nut off with just the drawbar left…3 or 4 turns and hit it and sometimes still will not budge ???

I know loosening off too much can damage the threads when whacking it (so making another drawbar soon just in case) but I seem to be hitting it harder and harder these days.

Don't know if I am doing completely the wrong procedure but getting frustrated as spend 10 odd minutes trying to eject chucks when switching opertions i.e. mill and drill.

Thanks Matt

[Dave AttwoodParticipant @daveattwood58220]

For the WM16 / Chester /Amadeal 25

1. Don't loosen the retaining nut

2. Hold the end of the retaining nut (or the collet) in a spanner

3. Turn the end of the drawbar anti-clockwise – it may be quite stiff after half a turn, but carry on

4. When loose, you can then unscrew the collet by hand.

Hope this helps (don't hit the poor thing – it really is self ejecting)

Dave

 

Edited By Dave Attwood on 27/02/2016 23:24:52

Edited By Dave Attwood on 27/02/2016 23:27:37

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Lightly Oil tool taper before inserting
Barely tighten more than hand tight.
Make sure tool is warmer than mill spindle before inserting.
Check whether your mill spindle has a ejector slot in the side when the spindle is fully down – if so use it.
Look into chuck removal wedges (currently out of stock on this link) Arc may do them.
Release and eject tool (at least to hang on drawbar) as soon as you have finished using it – while still warm, not next day, even if you will be using it again tomorrow.

If you end up hitting the drawbar fist lower the spindle a bit and provide support with bits of bar and plate from the actual rotating bit of the spindle down to the bed so that you are not putting the strain in the bearings. Tricky but possible.

Edited By Bazyle on 27/02/2016 23:23:58

[Matt Homer 1Participant @matthomer1]

Thanks Guys will have a look today…many thanks

[Rik ShawParticipant @rikshaw]

Probably most of the chuck ejection problems are caused by over tightening of the male and female morse tapers. You should NEVER need to bash the draw bar to free the taper if you do you have been to heavy handed.

Eventually, I found the best way to avoid problems when fitting a chuck is to remove the draw bar and cylindrical retaining nut, pop the chuck up into the taper gently, hold it there while you fit the draw bar until it is finger tight. Now screw the spindle nut down unti it stops then back it of half a turn or so. Holding the spindle with a spanner use an appropriate tool to tighten the small square end on the draw bar – it only wans to be a snug fit – do not over tighten. Finally, tighten the spindle nut – you can use a little more force here – to secure the assembly.

When removing a chuck slacken of the spindle retaining nut half a turn or so then hold the spindle and undo the small square on the draw bar. As the two tapers come apart you should get a gentle crack as they release.. If it sounds complicated it soon becomes second nature with a little practise.

My "appropriate" draw bar spanner is an old brass gas tap handle about 3" long that fits the draw bar square end.

Rik

Edited By Rik Shaw on 28/02/2016 09:45:26

[Matt Homer 1Participant @matthomer1]

Thanks guys for your replies.

Followed Dave Attwoods procedure and works a treat….also will follow everyones advice and not overtighten everything which I think I have been doing.

Thanks again

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

I use a very similar method as Rik; the only difference is my draw bar spanner is a 6" 1/4" drive ratchet plus a 9mm 12 point socket for the draw bar square. I snug the draw bar hand tight only as the ratchet has enough leverage to secure whatever I happen to be using, as for undoing I get a definite 'crack' as the two tapers disengage, also I always check both tapers & give all tapers a wipe over to ensure that there is no grit or such like on any taper.

George.

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

I believe sometimes, especially in cold conditions the male/female morse tapers can kind of wring together. As someone said earlier, put a little oil on the taper before inserting to try and prevent this. The WM16 is designed to be self ejecting and the drawbar is tightened against the retaining nut to release it.

The barrel at the end of my draw bar started to slip not so long ago, if this happens to yours, drill two holes either end of the barrel and rivet it together and grind flat.

Michael W

[Mark P.Participant @markp]

I use a mini (car that is) 6mm square drive brake adjusting spanner on mine.
Mark P.

[MWParticipant @mw27036]

I dont know if they're any good but on ebay you can buy long handled spanners, i find i keep hitting my knuckles with an 8mm stubby spanner and i'm half the mind to get one.

Michael W

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