Stuart ‘Victoria’ : a beginners tale..

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Your best bet would have been to grind up a "knife tool" from HSS which would have allowed you to get close enough with the tailstock ctr in place when turning the long end. Something like this that I pinched from one of Ramons engine build threads

To face off the ends of parts like this where there is a larger dia that stops the chuck gripping near the end I drill a suitable hole through a bit of aluminium, in this case 1/4" OD by about the same length would do. You can then slit this with a junior hacksaw making a split bush. When held in the 3-jaw the jaw pressure will close it around your 1/8" dia part.

 

J

Edited By JasonB on 19/11/2013 17:14:34

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

Allan. Can I make a request? Please post some photo's of the build with the machine covered in chips

Jason's just put me at ease…

Steve

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

Seriously though, I would have used a 4 jaw chuck or a collet chuck to grip the body and turn both ends. I would also have used a piece of HSS ground for the job as Jason recommends. For very light cuts, carbide tips need grinding to reduce the edge radius anyway – or a least that's what I do.

Steve

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Thanks both, sounds like I need to get in a few more Lathe tools..

Cheers.

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Can I ask a quick question please – going to make this little stud next but could anyone please tell me what the O/Size reference means – it seems to be the only such reference on the whole drawing?

Thanks very much.

Cheers.

Allan.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Not knowing where the part goes makes it a bit difficult but I would assume it goes through a part or parts that total 3/8" thick.

If you made it exactly 3/8" then as the nuts are tightened it would lock the assembly solid, if you make it a few thou "Oversize" the pin will be free to allow the parts to move around its axis but not have excessive sideways movement.

J

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Ah, thanks again Jason.

Cheers

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Day 37.

Stud.

Just another very small update – all the smaller studs are ready supplied with just this one to make. No problems with this although it would have been good to have had a smaller parting tool to have cleaned the unthreaded 'shoulder' to allow the nuts to travel fully. The thread lengths will likely need to be shortened slightly when it comes to assembly. The central unthreaded section is 11 thou oversize, don't know if that was a bit too much, have to see when it comes to assembly..

My shopping list is growing but hopefully will start the next project slightly better equipped – long way from that yet though..

The Stud Drawing.

Turning the Stud.

Threading the Stud 5BA. Pulled the chuck around by hand to thread.

The finished Stud 1.

The finished Stud 2.

Regards.

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Day 38.

The Eccentric Strap.

The main problem here was not having a suitable tool to do the recess on the internal diameter. I did look on the internet and expected to find something like a parting tool set at 90 degrees but couldn't see anything. Could someone please tell me what I should have used and possibly where to get one (10mm shank) – I used the boring tool which was definitely not the thing to have done…. thanks.

The Eccentric Strap, Rod and Clevis Drawing.

The Eccentric Strap Gunmetal casting as supplied.

Facing the Eccentric Strap.

Drilling the bolt holes in the Eccentric Strap, starting with the Centre Drill.

The Eccentric Strap cut into two. My saw cut was not too good and so had to mill the joins back flat – resulting in loosing some excess material… I have a small slitting saw which I think I will try for doing this next time around.

Tapping the Eccentric Strap bolt holes.

Had to extend the 7BA bolts thread because of the lost material in the casting in having to mill flat the poor saw cut..

(the left one as supplied).

The two half's of the Eccentric Strap bolted back together.

Initial drilling of the Eccentric Strap bore, started at 3mm and used a drill bit up to 10mm.

then over to boring to the final diameter..

Checking the Eccentric Strap bore size 1.

Doing the internal diameter recess on the Eccentric Strap. Used the boring tool which was a big mistake..

Milling down the fixing arm for Eccentric Rod.

Tidying up the Eccentric Strap on the mill.

Drilling the Eccentric Strap Rod fixing holes.

The finished Eccentric Strap.

Regards

Allan.

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Hi Allan

For cutting that groove in the eccentric strap I made a little boring tool.

The left hand one is a boring tool(!) and the right hand one is like a tiny parting tool and this was used ( in the left hand holder) to make the slot.

Tool bits were made from 5mm dia silver steel hardened and tempered. The holders are just mild steel with the tool bit held in place by a grub screw. Not pretty maybe but quick, simple and effective. ( The sit in a drawer with lots of other "special" tools awaiting the next occasion!)

Good progress on your Victoria.

Regards

Norman

Edited By NJH on 01/12/2013 11:55:00

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

Hi Allan,

For the internal recess you need a tool that you can hold with its shank along the axis of the lathe and a cutter that protrudes back towards the operator. A bit like an internal boring or threading tool.

I would use a boring bar I have that takes 1/8" square HSS toolbits at either 45 or 90 degrees. One at 90 degrees with the end ground down to match the width of the groove would do it.

Another way would be to turn a disk of suitable diameter on the end of a piece of silver steel with a suitably narrow neck. grind or file away a quarter of the disk that harden and temper to 'straw colour'. I have a small version of such tool that can be poked into really small holes to cut grooves. If you have a suitable grinder you can make a tool from HSS rod, but not a practical proposition with an offhand grinder.

Neil

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

I made a suitable tool(used it when I made an eccentric strap for the Stuart S9), it is a bit of 1/2" dia. steel from the junk box, with a chip off an industrial hack saw blade brazed at right angles, it's rough, but it works.

Ian S C

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

Still NO chips or swarf to be seen. Clearly new to this model engineering game

Really good to see the engine coming to life picture by picture.

This is the tool I made to cut the groove. It's an old letter stamp, warmed up and bent through 90, then ground to shape.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/aihoogln882mgy0/P1030393.JPG

Before you turn the eccentrics really think through how you are going to sequence the turning jobs so that that the groove is in good alignment to the male part of the eccentric – I'm scratching my head but can't quite remember, one of the other guys will be able to call it out.

Steve

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Thanks everyone, thats really useful. I don't have a grinder at the moment but I'm beginning to see that I should maybe get one, I can remember grinding is a very skilled task but It would be good to at least have a go at some of the 'simpler' looking jobs – although I don't have room on the bench for a fixed one so have to see if I can find a portable bench type. I guess one with an integral work piece / tool steel holder would be too much to hope for?

Cheers

Allan.

[NJHParticipant @njh]

Allan

You will, without doubt, need bench grinder pretty soon! Yes precision grinding is very skilled but we are not talking about that here! A simple double ended bench grinder is all that is required. You do need to keep this away from your lathe etc though as grinding dust is bad news for machinery. My solution is to do my grinding in the garage ( OK – general store/ junk area – a car has never been in there). Mount the grinder on a piece of board and , on the underside of the board, screw a length of 2"x2" timber. Use this to hold the board and grinder in your workmate. ( OK it doesn't need to be a workmate – I bought one like THIS in one of their sales for very little money.) HSS tool blanks are cheap and easily ground for those special fiddly little bits of turning.

Have a look at Harold Halls site for various accessories you can make to help with grinding

Regards

Norman

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Norman

Thanks very much for that, it sounds a perfect solution for me – and I do already have a workmate!

That's exactly what I'll do then!

Cheers.

Allan.

[Anonymous]

Allan: Contrary to popular opinion there is nothing difficult about freehand grinding HSS toolbits. Here's one I made earlier:

I will admit that the curve on the front was done on a cylindrical grinder, but everything else, rake, side and front clearances and side relief, were done by hand on a small bench grinder that my father bought 45+ years ago. And here is the tool in action, the material is EN8:

I'll say it again; it's an urban myth that it is difficult to grind basic HSS tool bits on a bench grinder, so go for it.

Regards,

Andrew

[NJHParticipant @njh]

One other thing Allan – when you buy your grinder buy some safety specs too, keep them with the grinder and ALWAYS wear them when you use it. A bit of hot steel in the eye is something to be avoided at all costs. ( Even if you are a spectacle wearer bits of steel embedded in those expensive glasses are a bad idea!)

How do I know this? – well happily not from first hand experience! I can though remember my Dad coming back from the hospital where he had just such a piece removed from his eye. ( He had a joinery business and often spent time grinding up complicated cutters for the spindle moulder)

Regards

Norman

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Hi Norman

Yes thanks, I have some and always use them when using the Lathe, Mill and Drill – think I would likely use a full face mask though when using a grinder…

and cheers Andrew, can but give it a try! My Lathe tools are all very small so not sure if that will make things more awkward..

Regards

Allan.

[Steve WithnellParticipant @stevewithnell34426]

Grinding HSS tools on a bench grinder is not difficult, bit of patience bit of practice. In fact it can be quite relaxing

Apart from grinding HSS blanks, I've made few boring tools from silver steel rod bent to requisite shape, ground to the right profile (ish), hardened and titivated and they can be as good as anything at a fraction of the cost of a tip tool. Actually, I do enjoy making these tools, even though they might turn out a bit ugly!

Steve

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Day 39.

The Last of the 4 Glands.

After not doing a very good job with the first three glands I was hoping to do better with this one after now having a bit more practice, and a with slightly different approach…

First time around I did the central hole on the Lathe and the fixing holes on the drill not marking out the fixing holes until after parting off in the Lathe ( mistake I think and didn't manage to get the holes lined up as a result..) – this time around as Jason suggested I marked out the three holes first, and then did all three on the lathe, a much better way I think..

( As I haven't filed the Gland boss profiles on the Cylinder Covers / Valve Chest I flattened off the Elliptical shape on this one slightly as for me it looks better ).

The Gland drawing.

After facing off the bar in the Lathe the holes marked out first.

Drilling all three Gland holes on the Lathe. The fixing holes done first and then the central hole, outside diameter and another light facing cut done on the same and final 'chuck setting' before parting off…

The Cylinder Cover without the Gland.

Test fitting the Gland to the Cylinder Cover.

The Gland after parting off in the Lathe.

Setting the depth stop on the drill before spotting through the 7BA holes from the Gland to the Cylinder Cover.

Tapping the Gland fixing holes in the Cylinder Cover.

Test fitting the Gland with the bolts to the Cylinder Cover.

The Gland fitted to the engine.

Regards

Allan.

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Day 40.

The Eccentric Sheave.

I found this quite difficult – not having a suitable 'grooving' tool when I did the Eccentric Strap resulted in the internal recess being slightly off centre and made doing the Sheave more awkward. The overall finished size came out at 10 thou over, so hoping I can at least skim a little if it helps with alignment when it comes to assembly..

The Eccentric Sheave Drawing.

The bar supplied for the Eccentric Sheave.

The Eccentric Sheave faced and turned to the overall maximum diameter.

Turning the Eccentric Sheave raised 'lip'.

Test fitting the strap to check for the recess alignment.

Finding the Eccentric Sheave bar centre to mark out for the off centre bore.

Starting the Eccentric Sheave bore 9/64" off centre with a Centre Drill.

Reaming the Eccentric Sheave bore.

The Eccentric Sheave so far.

Turning the other side of the Eccentric Sheave with a parting tool.

Finding the centre to drill for the Eccentric Sheave grubscrew.

Tapping the grubscrew hole in the Eccentric Sheave.

The finished Eccentric Sheave.

The Eccentric Sheave in the strap 1.

The Eccentric Sheave in the strap 2.

Regards

Allan.

[MM57Participant @mm57]

Another really good installment Allan – great photos in a great sequence.

Have been (silently) watching this thread since the start – as a raw beginner (really raw) myself, it's been a great education of tools and techniques

Many thanks, and look forward to more

[GarryCParticipant @garryc]

Thanks very much Martin, its good to hear someone else has also been following – sounds like we may be on the same learning curve..

Cheers.

Allan.

[Alan .204Participant @alan-204]

Posted by Martin Millener on 13/12/2013 12:06:29:

Another really good installment Allan – great photos in a great sequence.

Have been (silently) watching this thread since the start – as a raw beginner (really raw) myself, it's been a great education of tools and techniques

Many thanks, and look forward to more

Totally agree with Martin a great read been following from the start, keep up the good work.

Al.

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