Strip Down to Clean New Warco 250V

[JourneymanParticipant @journeyman]

Can't say that I can see the need to run the lathe without the change wheel cover. Lots of bits all going round just waiting to catch clothing, swarf, the chuck key that fell off the rubber mat, not to mention throwing oil or grease all over the workshop.

The chuck guard I agree needs to be swung out of the way (or removed) on occasion for example turning large lump on the faceplate and I have done this a couple of times but always reinstated afterwards. As Dave says it stops you getting a face full of swarf.

John

Edited By Journeyman on 18/02/2018 17:56:30

[John Hall 7Participant @johnhall7]

I’d remove the tail stock and dismantle it…the casting on mine was full of black casting sand….I used a small wire brush in a drill to remove it all …I then etch primed and painted the rough surface..

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

It sounds like a lot of you are standing in the wrong position relative to your lathe. I stand to the right of the saddle at all times. This is aided by the position of other machines or benches in my small workshop leaving only emergency access to the area in line with the chuck.

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Posted by Bazyle on 06/03/2018 18:10:26:

It sounds like a lot of you are standing in the wrong position relative to your lathe. I stand to the right of the saddle at all times.

…

Well, it's true that it often makes sense to stand to the right of the saddle, and not very often in line with the chuck. But the skilled machinist will stand where he can see what he's doing and where he damn well likes.

[Mike PooleParticipant @mikepoole82104]

I always avoid standing in the firing line if at all possible, apart from the key all sorts of crap come out of a spinning chuck, bits of swarf and oil and even the job if you forget to tighten the chuck.

Mike

[John Hall 7Participant @johnhall7]

 

 

 

Edited By John Hall 7 on 20/03/2018 13:13:18

[Mick B1Participant @mickb1]

Posted by Mike Poole on 06/03/2018 18:45:09:

I always avoid standing in the firing line if at all possible, apart from the key all sorts of crap come out of a spinning chuck, bits of swarf and oil and even the job if you forget to tighten the chuck.

Mike

The main exceptions in my case would be:-

• when watching for a boring bar or internal threading tool emerging from the back end of a bore at low revs or on a very light finishing cut;
• when knurling or parting close to the chuck and the action needs close inspection
• when forming (typically radii) across a broad cutting face at low revs.

Plus, of course, with most lathes without a clutch and with headstock switchgear, it's necessary to reach across the line to switch on and off. So all-engaged threadcutting – forward and reversing out – should probably be added.

I think it's a matter of knowing what the risks are, and which ones to take and when.

[John Hall 7Participant @johnhall7]

I’ve removed the chuck guard and clamped a 125mm long rod to the end of it vertically with a red knob screwed on the end…It’s used as an extra safety stop button, and is easier to access than the one on top….

All it needs is a quick tap backwards to operate the off switch…works well…simple to do..👍

[Author]

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