Myford ML7 Restoration of Sorts

[AJCParticipant @ajc]

Restoring my Myford ML7 – a total beginners tale!

I have long wanted to get a good lathe. It is fair to say that I’ve struggled to buy a machine which is within my budget. The Myford 7 always seemed to be the default which everyone went after. The prices reflected this and made a good machine hard to come by. Then, a stroke of luck I managed to secure one. Bought from ebay in July 2014, this is my story to bring it back to life. From the out set, this was about getting a machine which will work for me, do some model engineering and (hopefully!) make me a steam engine. I have not included prices paid, it is slightly more than I would have liked, but alot less than other machines I have seen. The machine was pallet delivered to me and after investigation the condition was running, but fair to poor. I was not expecting this to become a restoration job, but that is what it has become.

As it was so hard to find a machine which is affordable and in good condition, ebay was not the best route – it was the only route available to me, although you can sometimes get lucky.

My goal was to eventually get a machine which is a hard worker, reliable, not exhibition standard, but fit to last me and get me making steam engines! Where possible I’ve done my best to use the correct materials and paints available to the knowledge of a novice. The serial number suggest it was from the 1950s.

I have had to purchase a few new bits, some necessary, some because I wanted it to look better and function better. I have not restored every piece, only the ones which I 'felt' needed to. I have also hoped to preserve as much of the original machine as possible. Ain't broke don't fix! I hope you enjoy my pictorial tale!

This was the original condition.

Motor

Cleaning Starts – Using Gunk from Halfords and a wire brush, then wiped clean with a rag, and also hot soapy water and a scrubbing brush. WD40 promises to clean but didn't really make any difference for me.

Motor cleaned with a small rotary tool wire brush, to remove rust and lose paint – Wear eye, ear and dust mask protection! You have been warned.

Motor with Humbrol Matt black Enamel paint (wet)

Motor dry

More in next post!

[AJCParticipant @ajc]

Buying, restoring and installing my ML7

[AJCParticipant @ajc]

Story Cont:

Etch prime the bed, Paragon (on the internet) paint matt undercoat

Before and during painting (after cleaning) bearing housing

Bed and headstock

Top paint coats going on – Paragon Enamel Myford Satin Grey

Didn’t want to paint over the Myford badge even if it is a little tatty!

Let it all dry for a day or three and then red Humbrol Gloss on the lettering – looks great! Phone camera makes the paint look really runny!

Motor mount and tail stock re assembled

Where else would these fantastic machines have been made!

So that is the story for far as of today, 25^th May 2015. Once I have assembled it, I will go through the bits I had to buy and why I had to. Thanks for looking all!

[OldMetallerParticipant @oldmetaller]

An interesting thread, AJC. I'm looking forward to when you get to the cross slide, as I've been putting off fixing the play in mine for too long!

Regards,

John.

[Brian OldfordParticipant @brianoldford70365]

Great photo-story. Please keep us updated of what was found. The good, the bad and the ugly. I was a little surprised you painted the rear seating face for a (quite rare) taper turning attachment. Perhaps you don't envisage doing long tapers.

Good stuff.

[Swarf, Mostly!Participant @swarfmostly]

Hi there, AJC,

This looks like the start of an interesting thread.

I'd better declare my interest – my ML7 has the early headstock but I have acquired one of the more recent headstock castings (the type with the cast-in lug for the lever-operated collet chuck) plus enough parts to complete it.

The thing that has, so far, deterred me from building up that headstock and fitting it is the fear of difficulties in aligning the mandrel to the bed. Is it sufficient to simply push the headstock casting back against the rear shear with the two push-screws?

I recently fitted a quick-change gearbox and that would have to be removed to gain access to those push-screws.

(I hope this thread won't be distracted by Myford vs Asian lathes controversy. Those arguments have been sufficiently exercised elsewhere!)

Best regards,

Swarf, Mostly!

[Brian OldfordParticipant @brianoldford70365]

Sorry to drift OT but may be relevant.

My clunker of a Mk1 S7 has shocking rotational play on the tailstock barrel. If anyone knows of a easy (inexpensive) fix please let me know.

[ianjParticipant @ians]

Brian.

Fitting a new one of these will improve your tailstock I would think.

**LINK**

Ian

[davebParticipant @daveb17630]

Posted by Swarf, Mostly! on 26/05/2015 11:55:48:

The thing that has, so far, deterred me from building up that headstock and fitting it is the fear of difficulties in aligning the mandrel to the bed. Is it sufficient to simply push the headstock casting back against the rear shear with the two push-screws?

Yes, make sure both location in the bed and the headstock base is clean, fit headstock and finger tighten the four headstock screws, tighten the push screws firmly, they're not that big so don't overdo it, then tighten the headstock screws. I use a long Allen key on a 1/2" socket adaptor, available from Halfords, Etc. If you have not previously removed the headstock, you need to be aware the the headstock screws are TIGHT. A good quality Allen key/adaptor as described should shift them but you may need to resort to an impact driver.

[Raymond Sanderson 2Participant @raymondsanderson2]

What a great restoration WiP.

I will be interested in your reply as to Daveb ??

I am lucky n that my ML7 is in great working and well cared for order. I have concerns for the bearings although no noticable sings of wear or movement.

[Michael Garbutt 1Participant @michaelgarbutt1]

what ever happend to this ?

[AJCParticipant @ajc]

Hi There,

Yes sorry about updating this. After I had got this far, we decided to move house. So the whole lot got put in boxes and stored.

Fast forward to now. We have moved and after settling in, the Lathe was top of the list to get going. I have taken pictures however I have not got to upload them yet.

So here is what has been done:

Strip stand, sand, remove nails from wood, sand some more, varnish with Yacht Varnish

Paint Metal frame of stand

Built mount for ML7 to fit onto the stand

Fit Lathe bed, leveling and made sure it was on flat ground

Re assembled head stock, everying went together well. Found the shims on the bearing to be not myford origionals. Got some from Myford – bearings are in very good condition, hopefully nothing to concern here.

Gear box when on nicely, I did find I need to replace two gears, one just worn out, the other had a missing tooth.

Replaced the oilders for bearing housing – mine were cracked and no good

Now to the saddle, this required a new felt from myford and sadly one of the slides needed a new screw as it was bent. It must have been thumped at some point.

Afew cosmetic bits were pickup up from ebay on the cheap.

Right, now the big problem landed. I fitted new shims from Myford under the saddle strips and found LOADS of play between the saddle and the lathe bed. Great. Tweek the saddle up and down the bed and, as is often typics on a 1950s machine, I found it slack with play nearer the chuck end and very tight thing at the other end. No matter how much tweeking could get a happy medium. The simple fact was my bed was worn. Then I looked at the saddle underside and sadle strips, they too were rather worn. Taking measurements confirmed this.

Only one option, Re grind the bed, sadle and sadle strips.

So lathe was almost finished apart from a few bits. The next step was to find some one who could re grid it.

I first called Myford and they quoted a small fortune, which to be frank was an astronomical amount. Far exceeding twice what I paid for the entire machine – just for the re grind. So that was out as an option.

Then I left a post on this forum asking for help. This worked and I found Slideway Service et al, who can Re grid my machine.

The one issue is the waiting list. There was a minimum 8 weeks wait before even sending it. The price is VERY reasonable on quote.

I have now, yet again, totally stripped the machine, got a pallet, and now I have to send it away to the re grinding hospital. With any luck this will be in the next two weeks.

So that is where I am with this ML7, I'm hoping no more unknown 'major' jobs will appear, but you never know.

It has been fun, frustrating, I've learn't LOADS, absolutly LOADS. Hopefully more to come.

In the mean time, built a small garden railway 32mm, sorted the final castings for my Tich and Juliet and settled the kids into the new home.

I do ask myself should I have bought a new machine, but everyone I ask, says the Myford is a lovely machine – keep it, or I'll buy it from you!

It is a nice machine and I've learnt every bit of it. I will get the photos and finished artical on here as soon as I can.

Regards to all.

[Michael Garbutt 1Participant @michaelgarbutt1]

Thats bad news about the bed . Hope the regrined sorts all your problems out. Thats my worry about buying off Ebay a machine iv never seen. But it maybe my only option to owning a myford

[HopperParticipant @hopper]

Posted by AJC on 05/06/2016 22:17:56:

I do ask myself should I have bought a new machine, but everyone I ask, says the Myford is a lovely machine – keep it, or I'll buy it from you!

It is a nice machine and I've learnt every bit of it. I will get the photos and finished artical on here as soon as I can.

Regards to all.

Well worth the effort, I am sure. Once you get it sorted it will be like a new machine and only a pleasure to use. There is no substitute for quality. And if you can get it at a reasonable price by going the route you have done, and enjoy the learning process, you are even better off!

Can you tell us the price range for the bed/carriage/cross slide regrind job at Slideway Services you decided upon?

[AJCParticipant @ajc]

Hi All,

The Lathe is back from the Re Grind. Here is what she now looks like. I will post full work in progress when I can, but here's the taster.

[AJCParticipant @ajc]

This is what it used to look like:

[AJCParticipant @ajc]

Restoring the stand

How many nails

Metal painted and Yacht varnish

Assembling the stand

Fitting the lathe bed

Rebuild

Bed after the re grind

Saddle after the re grind

[AJCParticipant @ajc]

New felt on the Saddle

Fitting the saddle

Saddle finished

Lead screw gears

Motor ready to go on

Last few bits now

Covers added

This is just about it

Stuff I replaced:

• Oilers
• Felt
• Belt covers (cheap ebay)
• One gear (tooth missing)
• Shims (on main bearing)
• Belts
• A few bolts here and there
• Lead screw bracket assembly the thread was gone (ebay)

Still to do:

Belt covers need a spacer and new bolt. I'll probably make the spacer.

Fully oil the machine and then line up everything with some test cuts.

Conclusions:

So that's it. Just about finished, it is looking good. After I added it all up, it has cost less than a new Chinese machine and I've learn't lots about the machine. It has taken time. The serial number says it was made in 1950, so hopefully it will still have a long life.

If you are thinking about buying an ebay machine, take your time and see how much they are currently going for, don't bid on the first machine. Don't buy on a weekend evening ending auction – the price will be stupid money as everyone is at home bidding against you – wait for a mid week ending auction.

Don't be worried about it being worn out too much, you can get the bed, saddle, slides etc re ground without too many issues – but there is a MASSIVE waiting list as these companies are very busy (shop around again someone might do you a great deal). And don't worry about dirt – elbow grease is good for you!

You can get parts, Myford have quite a lot in stock, ebay does deliver as well if you are happy to wait for a part to come along. Phone around everyone – there are lots of people with bits.

It will take 10 times longer than you think – I got this machine in July 2014. I have a family, work full time, have moved house and have a million other hobbies to take my time.

If you just want to get building something then buy one of the fantastic new machines which are available, mainly from China. Many of the suppliers advertise on this site. I have spoken to some for advice along the way and they are always incredibly helpful, often even when I haven't bought anything, a total credit to this hobby.

If you can go and see a machine before you buy – do. Move the slides back and forth, check if it is tight at each end and loose/slack in the middle, this could be wear. Check all slides as well.

This was sent to me about measuring the wear, though it might be useful:

To check the bed, measure the width across the front shear (if your lathe is a narrow guide) along its length and see what sort of deviation you have.

Also measure the thickness of the front shear along the length of the bed (nominal 0.500" and again make a note of any deviation and then do the same with the rear shear.

Preferably you don't want any deviation at all over the width of the shears but 0.001" at the most

The thickness of the shears aren't as critical but you don't want any more than 0.002" max.

I hope this was interesting, all I need to do now is make something…..

 

 

Edited By AJC on 27/07/2016 21:53:24

[Simon CollierParticipant @simoncollier74340]

I found this thread very interesting as I own an ML7. On mine, if you take off the oilers from the tops of the bearing caps and look in, the oil hole in the bearing shell on the left hand side is not directly under the oiler position, but to the left of it. This can't be correct can it? Can AJC or anyone enlighten me on this?

[Jon GibbsParticipant @jongibbs59756]

Hi Simon,

Mine is the same as yours – i.e. the left hand olier hole doesn't line up exactly.

I have a slightly different comment/question…

My motor pulley is a lot smaller than the one shown in the pictures above which would lead to a much slower range of spindle speeds. Is mine an odd-ball? Mine seems about 2 inches diameter but the counter-shaft pulley looks standard and my belt is the usual SPZ875.

Jon

[Richard S2Participant @richards2]

Posted by Jon Gibbs on 28/07/2016 10:37:25:

Hi Simon,

Mine is the same as yours – i.e. the left hand olier hole doesn't line up exactly.

I have a slightly different comment/question…

My motor pulley is a lot smaller than the one shown in the pictures above which would lead to a much slower range of spindle speeds. Is mine an odd-ball? Mine seems about 2 inches diameter but the counter-shaft pulley looks standard and my belt is the usual SPZ875. Jon

Oiler hole on left bearing is correct and noticed the same when I replaced the Glacier T1 Bearings back in 1986 during a major refurb on my 1949 ML7.

As for Motor Pulley size, the standard is 1 7/8" and an optional one was available with 2 1/2" dia for slightly higher spindle speeds.

The Countershaft Pulley which you should have Jon is about 7" dia and will take as you say the standard belt (34.5" Inside length).

AJC- Good job done on the ML7. I should have mine reground really, as I've replaced many parts and it's only the Bed Ways that let it down.

Regards.

.

[Simon CollierParticipant @simoncollier74340]

Mine is small too, 1-7/8. I just measured it as I happen to have the belt cover off at the moment. With the oiler, it can't go any further over as it is already hard up against the belt cover, so they are probably all like this and I can forget my concern (??)

[Jon GibbsParticipant @jongibbs59756]

Hi Richard,

Thanks very much for the information about the pulleys. It seems then that the one belonging to the OP is perhaps too big?

I think Simon has identified the reason why the oiler hole is offset – My olier is hard up against the belt cover as it is and couldn't go further left.

Jon

[Raymond Sanderson 2Participant @raymondsanderson2]

Thanks for the journey its been great following it. My ML7 has just been given a new drip tray, new oilers and repainted stand after our move. One day I will strip it down I am sure of it.

I might have to find some one or teach myself how to redo the original bearings I saw an old mechanic do it once on his car bearings what an artist scraping them.

I do hope you repainted that saddle tho it would leave it looking out of place.

[Author]

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