Moving a Myford VMC advice needed thanks!

[Dave BarrParticipant @davebarr43722]

pictures re above post

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Well done, Dave. Easy, really, with no safety risks or ‘hic-ups’.

I had the benefit of a sturdy little sack barrow with which to move the base (and the column) of my grinder for most of the distance required.

The planks I used as an inclined plane were 2 off, 1.5m long, 200mm wide and 45mm thick. They were not likely to bend! With a fall of about 650mm, I had to pull the base down the slope. I removed the motor from the base before moving the base – but particularly because it was to be taken apart to convert it for 230V operation.

Other parts (head, table, cross slide, knee, motor and mag chuck) were carried with no great difficulty (table was heaviest).

It looks like your mill would only present a lifting problem (needing two people), with the base (perhaps) and the column if it were dismantled further, to its main components – but as it is I think it may need something better than one of the cheapest engine cranes on the market, as that lump certainly looks heavy!

If I don’t have a pump truck, or other easier alternative, I roll a pallet along on pipes, if on a good surface. Slopes and turning corners is ‘fun’ one can do without.

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

Gonna buy: another engine crane, more lifting straps and shackles, buy/make a dolly with castors etc. so I can get this built up, but all in good time no rush.

If you are in no rush. I would certainly dissasemble the table, cross slide and knee. Give it all a good clean inside, relubricate or take the oportunity to fit an oiling system and then reassemble once the column is on the base. If you are fitting DRO's you will obscure the table oiling points anyway. Once you have it running you will not want to take it to bits again to do this.

It's not difficult to strip down and much more manageable weight wise. Unless you really want another engine crane there would be no need to buy one.

regards Martin

[Tony Pratt 1Participant @tonypratt1]

Posted by Dave Barr on 07/10/2020 09:22:54:

Anyone suggest a source of a missing quill handle/broken knob at the end etc?

Thanks, Dave.

Berger tools, WDS etc do knobs similar to the broken one.

Tony

[VicParticipant @vic]

I got fed up with the single quill feed handle so I made a new one. Balls from eBay.

[Roger BestParticipant @rogerbest89007]

That looks fabulous Vic.

[VicParticipant @vic]

Thanks Roger. I was gifted the material and it was easy enough to make. It’s so much more convenient to use than a single lever.

[Dave BarrParticipant @davebarr43722]

Tony, thanks for the tip about Berger.

The missing rod is a shame as it's a bit that probably never wears out or breaks or gets lost except on this occasion. It's just a piece of 1/2 inch steel rod with a 1/2" BSW thread at the machine end and a 3/8" BSW and the other. Not got access to a lathe so might approach a local machine shop see if they will turn down the 3/8 end for me. Not seeing it as a bit I'm likely to come across anywhere…

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Not got access to a lathe so might approach a local machine shop see if they will turn down the 3/8 end for me.

No local model engineering club local? Likely pay a year’s subscription if the local machine shop charges the going rate. Also, I’m surprised its not threaded metric?

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

Just dis-assembled the VMC I'm moving this week and learned another little trick for removing the head. You need to be able to stand on the left of the mill. Retract and lock the qill, remove the collet chuck and motor. Large block of wood on the table. Raise the table untill just touching the quill. Remove column hold down nuts. Raise table a little, lift back of head and slip a 6mm wooden packer behind, raise table a little more supporting the head with left hand. Head assemble is now sufficiently free of the suds to rock forward on the quill and rotate to a good lifting position where it will gently fall into your arms. It's a lot easier than trying to lift the head over the studs. The trick is keeping your arms close to your body, taking the weight on both arms either side of the head and having a clear bench to put it down on.

PS don't try this at home unless you are confident.

regards Martin

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Martin, having mentioned lifting carrying the head at some time before re-assembly please can you weigh it , and any other sizable chunks you end up with so people in the future can judge whether they can handle things the same way.

[Martin CargillParticipant @martincargill50290]

Dave,

If your anywhere near Fife I have an engine crane and lifting gear. I also have a lathe if you want to make a new handle.

Martin

[Dave BarrParticipant @davebarr43722]

Martin, many thanks for your kind offer. I've just taken delivery of an SGS 2 tonne crane today which I will use to build up the machine in my 'back garage'.

Meanwhile I am busy tarting up the swarf/suds tray with Halfords garden green spray enamel as well as other bits of the machine. I don't have the time or inclination to go chasing a perfect colour match just want to build up a neat and tidy machine that I can use.

I expect before the end of the year I may have a 7 inch length of 1/2" steel rod in my hand that needs one end turned down for a 3/8 thread so if you are still available at that time I might give you a shout.

Someone said earlier that they were surprised that a 'metric' machine would have imperial threads on it. So far my limited experience with this one machine is that it has a mix of both thread systems.

Cheers and best regards, Dave.

[Dave BarrParticipant @davebarr43722]

[Dave BarrParticipant @davebarr43722]

So after some extra expense and hassle I have tonight finally 'made some chips'.

Bought a Vertex VK4 mill vice. Smaller than I expected but DOH my VM-30 at work actually has a VK5 fitted though I mistakenly thought that it was a '4'. Still will do fine I think.

Work light from Ikea. Will get me started but really need something better.

VFD is an Invertek unit 1.5kW, I have used their 18.5kW drives at work so was happy to pay a bit more for this brand. Need to make a remote switch box, running from the front panel for now. Initially it was tripping my house sockets RCD but after unscrewing the 'filter contact screw' on the side this is resolved.

Some quick and cheap spraying of a few bits (mainly the rusty suds pan) using Halfords 'Garden Green' enamel spray paint and the grey spray primer as well.

2 new drive belts but only using the new front one as the rear belt quoted in the manual is too wide??? Hmmmm…

Some new revolving handles for the handwneels from eBay cheap but fine.

Made a new rubber cover sheet for the Y leadscrew using the original stainless profiles and a grey silicone rubber dog bowl mat from Amazon

Fair bit of cleaning and application of 3 in 1 oil.

Wouldn't have got this sorted except for my new 2 tonne SGS engine crane. Huge but a lifesaver.Also excellent service and straps/shackles from SafetyLiftingGear.com their 2 tonne stainless shackles are so lovely I could weep.

[ZanParticipant @zan]

Looks a nice machine glad it worked out, but two points. Dump the swivel base, I have used mine twice in 20 years so converted it into a horizontal spin fixture.
More important, the vdf is very vulnerable to swarf which will fly far and wide, esp when fly cutting aluminium. it needs a decent ventilated enclosure with mesh to keep the grout out. The one on my Bridgeport is in perforated box mounted on the back of the column

[Dave BarrParticipant @davebarr43722]

Zan, thanks for your reply. I know swivel bases don't suit everyone but the things i do and the way i work I find them very useful. Good point about the drive and swarf I'll maybe re-site it or perhaps make a guard from acrylic sheet cheers!

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