Mini mill or handtools for this job (rectangle with slots)

[Jim Dalton 1Participant @jimdalton1]

[Jim Dalton 1Participant @jimdalton1]

Hello all

The aluminum pieces in the link below look reasonably straightforward to make. Question is, would a pair of these be a realistic diy weekend project and if so, would it be achievable with hand tools?

If a mini mill is called for, would a Sieg x1 or x2 be up to the job?

https://tsoproducts.com/accessories/tds-10-dog-stops-for-20mm-worktops/

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

Easily made with hand tools if a mill is not available. Any mill would do

Paul

[Jim Dalton 1Participant @jimdalton1]

Thanks Paul. How would I go about doing this? Sorry this may be a really basic question.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Paul Lousick on 02/09/2019 23:05:34:

Easily made with hand tools …

.

… I've just looked at the photos: **LINK**

https://tsoproducts.com/accessories/tds-10-dog-stops-for-20mm-worktops/

MichaelG.

[MadMikeParticipant @madmike]

Jim if you have access to a Sieg mill then I would use it. It will give you a much better finish, repeated accuracy and in a fraction of the time you would take with hand tools. Although I have not made any of these I have recently made some aluminium adjustable brackets of similar proportions and with similar slots. They took minutes on my Sieg.

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

Jim,

A mill would be the quickest and easiest method but not too hard to do it with hand tools.. Drill a series of holes (smaller than the width of the slot) and use a round file to cut between them. Then use a flat file to finish the slot to width. Or just a hole at either end of the slot, use a round file to make it big enough to insert a hack saw blade and saw down each side of the slot. Finish with a flat file.

Paul.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Paul Lousick on 03/09/2019 03:32:30:

Jim,

A mill would be the quickest and easiest method but not too hard to do it with hand tools.. Drill a series of holes (smaller than the width of the slot) and use a round file to cut between them. Then use a flat file to finish the slot to width. Or just a hole at either end of the slot, use a round file to make it big enough to insert a hack saw blade and saw down each side of the slot. Finish with a flat file.

Paul.

.

Did you look at the fourth picture in the sequence, Paul ?

MichaelG.

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

The slots are undercut so actually quite a challenge to make with hand tools. You would have make a lot to justify buying a mill.

Robert G8RPI.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Robert Atkinson 2 on 03/09/2019 07:18:32:

The slots are undercut so actually quite a challenge to make with hand tools. You would have make a lot to justify buying a mill.

Robert G8RPI.

.

… You spoiled it, Robert

I was hoping that people might be encouraged to look for themselves.

MichaelG.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

And with the larger slot being in the region of 25mm quite a large cutter for a small machine unless you opt for a smaller one and don't have rounded ends to the larger slot.

[Robert Atkinson 2Participant @robertatkinson2]

Just a thought as these in light alloy and are for woodworking use you could just about use a router on lowest speed. Make up a jig in MDF rough out blanks with a hacksaw, chain drill the through slot first…..

Robert G8RPI

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Frankly … Given the positive review of this product, and noting that these are really 'setting pieces' not 'clamps' … I would say they are very good value at the price.

MichaelG.

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

I don't see why they couldn't be fabricated from two "L" shaped "sides" bridged with stepped ends to keep them rigid.

This would open up far more possibilities, as the steps could be cut with an end mill on any a small mill, or as Robert suggested, a router ( -table?), or you might even find that a suitable extrusion is already available..

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

It could be more easily fabricated in two parts with hand tools if only personal use is contemplated. Depends on why the poster might wish to make rather than buy.

[Nick WheelerParticipant @nickwheeler]

They're fairly simple to make, but on such a small mill will take ages compared to the cost of buying them. Time better spent on actually using them.

[DalboyParticipant @dalboy]

If as you say they will be made from Aluminum and you have a woodworking router you can buy router bit for that purpose but it will take several passes as most of them are designed for thinner material

[Paul LousickParticipant @paullousick59116]

They are not precision machining jigs so why make them so complex ? They are used on a router/saw table and are located in drilled holes on a wooden top. The stepped slot is not necessary.

A simple slot in a piece of flat bar would be just as good and would not require the stepped location dowel/nut. It could be made from a piece of round bar with a tapped hole. The hand wheel could even be replaced with a standard bolt.

Paul.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

In your position, I'd use hand tools.

But I would make the slot the right width to fit the studs and get rid of the awkward step and use washers under the clamp knobs instead.

Alternatively use a wider slot and make stepped washers, if you have a lathe.

<edit> it seems the studs are 'loose' in which case, Paul's alternative will work fine.

Neil

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 03/09/2019 10:41:16

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

If you already have their dogs( or just about any other make) then you need the recess particularly for thin work as the top of the dogs is larger than the spigot that fits in the euro standard 20mm hole of the MFT.

If I were making some I would consider a hard plastic as the bare aluminium will mark work without anodizing to stop it. Also kinder on cutting edges if you have a mishap. I'd also make the dogs with flats to fit into the wider groove so they don't rotate when the knob is tightened.

 

 

Edited By JasonB on 03/09/2019 10:52:35

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

Corian. Cut with router.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I'd go with something a bit more forgiving than Corian as it's a bit brittle in my opinion and easily cracked

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Maybe expanding rubber threaded inserts would work on plug duties if they can be found in a suitable size. Trim to length in the lathe removing the lip on the top so you don't need the stepped base. If the whole of the insert is within the bore it will expand and grip well. No need to go well through to make a "nut substitute' bulge on the bottom for this sort of job. Nut bulge makes for an immensely strong fitting if something needs to stay fixed tho'.

I have done similar in the past, albeit with smaller 5 or 6 mm threaded ones and recall sffiicient of clearance to slide in and out but sill enough grip to hold when you start the screw.

One type shown here **LINK** .

Called well nuts in that link but I searched for "expanding rubber threaded insert" and got a host of results of varying relevance. I imagine variations might come up with more directly relevant ones.

Clive

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

"Rawl Nut" after Rawl who first introduced them gives good results.

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Paul Lousick on 03/09/2019 10:25:57:

They are not precision machining jigs so why make them so complex ?

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… simply because that's what was referenced in the opening question.

MichaelG.

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