Making Unimat DB/SL Steadies

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Making Unimat DB/SL Steadies

Home Forums Workshop Techniques Making Unimat DB/SL Steadies

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  • #812981
    Emgee
    Participant
      @emgee

      If the poster wants a print file joining the Unimat iO Group is a good route to take, download is FOC.

      https://groups.io/g/Unimat

       

      Emgee.

      .

      SL steady.SL steady

       

       

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      #812985
      Michael Gilligan
      Participant
        @michaelgilligan61133
        On duncan webster 1 Said:

        All it needs is a bit of flat to locate between the 2 round bars, which could be done with file and saw, screwed to  a longer bit sat on top, and a 3rd long bit underneath to clamp it all together. No accurate holes of vees. Don’t introduce spurious accuracy.

        You may be ‘technically’ correct there, Duncan … But, as Dave has repeatedly reminded us elsewhere, we should consider needs and wants separately.

        If I was making a ‘fixed steady’ for a Unimat, I would want it to include kinematic alignment with the headstock spindle [which makes the job of setting-it-up for work much easier].

        MichaelG.

        #812990
        JasonB
        Moderator
          @jasonb

          Duncans method would give 4 long contact points as would two vees so should keep it lined up. Take a look at a Myford fixed steady, If it works for myford then it should also work for a Sl and give the Kinematic alignment desired.

           

          Emgee is that designed for the Sl as it looks like the U3 type but would still have 3 points of contact and work OK if sized for the round bar SL’s ctr height?

          #813003
          Michael Gilligan
          Participant
            @michaelgilligan61133

            Sorry, Jason … I have difficulty visualising Duncan’s proposal

            I’m struggling to “accommodate” the central feed-screw in that simplistic description.

            Out all day today, so I probably won’t be disrupting.

            MichaelG.

             

            #813009
            JasonB
            Moderator
              @jasonb

              Maybe that is why it wa ssimplistic, he was describing a way to locate the steady, clearance in the middle would be upto the builder. Yes you would need to cut a clearance notch or similar for the feed screw just like the third hole if going for the drilled/bored/reamed option.

              Or two small blocks that bear on the outside of the bars would do the same job, screwed on with clearance holes they could be finally tightened up in position so reducing the need for accurate sizing of  a central block

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