making new lathe spindle

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making new lathe spindle

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  • #181288
    Roger Hart
    Participant
      @rogerhart88496

      Well done, an extra £60 seems good – and with horn handles too! I agree not a bad deal, enjoy your lathe. BTW, I bought an oldish ML10 – it had some nice tooling and a ropey leadscrew – but I have a cunning plan….

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      #181304
      Graeme Whitfield
      Participant
        @graemewhitfield34761

        Spill the beans then

        Square thread leadscrews seem expensive but acme thread ballscrew rods are cheap. Why cant we all just fit them (with appropriate nuts)?

        Im sure I read ml10 were a cheaper alternative to ml7 and yet they seem to be worth more money now. Why’s that?

        #181309
        Hans
        Participant
          @hans86050

          Graeme,

          Once the shaft is brought back to size, it should serve you well within its size limitations. It will likely present a challenge whilst parting, but even George Thomas discussed his difficulties parting with the Drummond.

          And if it were on my side of the Pond, I would scoop it up in a heart-beat for what you will have in it, particularly because you have many of the original accessories. I am glad that someone is bringing her back to life.

          Hans

          #181313
          Roger Hart
          Participant
            @rogerhart88496

            The ML10 replaced a very old Selig Sonneheim I'd had for 20+ years, the ML10 is very good but on the small side and no gap in the bed but suits my odd jobs. The leadscrew is worn in the usual place. Two cunning plans, one to buy a used ML7 screw and adapt it and the other is to cut a new leadscrew using the good end of the original. A purist would cut a leadscrew in one go, but I have cut screws in two goes, tricky but do-able. But as I am old, it still does the job and I don't need to screwcut all that often it may never get done….

            #181357
            NJH
            Participant
              @njh

              Graeme

              "Im sure I read ml10 were a cheaper alternative to ml7 and yet they seem to be worth more money now. Why's that? "

              The reason is that the ML7 is an " old" machine since superseded by the ML7R and the Super 7. The ML10 was introduced as a cheaper, more basic, machine alongside these models and this is why is commands a higher price compared to the older ML7. (Plenty of folk are still using the old ML7s.)

              I started with an ML4 and then went on to an ML10 – quite a good lathe but lacking in some of the refinements of its larger brothers. I've since moved on to a Super 7 and I guess that will see me out!

              Have a look HERE for the differences.

              Regards

              Norman

              Edited By NJH on 26/02/2015 18:54:47

              #181392
              Michael Gilligan
              Participant
                @michaelgilligan61133

                Just a word of warning about the ML10

                I was seriously considering buying one, but then found this page, with some totally unexpected advice.

                Quote: "Note: It is not possible to do a full bed and saddle regrind on an ML10, Speed10, or Diamond 10 Lathe. At best the top of the bed can have 0.005in. (0.127mm) removed, a once only operation, so your visual inspection is crucial."

                MichaelG.

                Edited By Michael Gilligan on 26/02/2015 21:09:42

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