How to clean a fusee cable

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How to clean a fusee cable

Home Forums Clocks and Scientific Instruments How to clean a fusee cable

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  • #496790
    roy entwistle
    Participant
      @royentwistle24699

      Hello fellow horologists ( bikers may be of some help also ) I have a skeleton clock to repair. The fusee cable has become detached at the spring barrel end. The trouble I have is that it has been well oiled. How to clean the oil off so that I can resolder the nipple. For any help from the biking community it's a steel Bowden type cable

      Thanks in advance

      Roy

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      #3889
      roy entwistle
      Participant
        @royentwistle24699
        #496800
        Adrian Downes
        Participant
          @adriandownes83818

          As a professional horologist…… I would fix it with a new one.

          #496803
          old mart
          Participant
            @oldmart

            I'm always learning something on this forum, I thought fusees were little chains.

            #496809
            Steviegtr
            Participant
              @steviegtr

              I would use cellulose thinners or Acetone. On the old bikes i used to use bakers fluid to tin before soldering the joint.

              I guess back then i would have cleaned with petrol as it's all we had available.

              A high wattage iron too. Unless you have a wee blowlamp.

              Steve.

              #496907
              Tim Stevens
              Participant
                @timstevens64731

                On brake and throttle cables I have found it helpful to make a punch with an end boring to fit over the cable – just, and with a countersink. Mild steel will serve. Grip the cable in a soft-jaw vice, with the nipple above the jaws, leaving about 3-5mm between the nipple and the punch (depending on cable and nipple size), hold the punch dead in line and tap gently. With luck and/or skill the cable will open out into a tiny rosette. Keep tapping until the rosette expands to fill the nipple countersink, remove the punch and cut (or grind) the end of the cable and knock the ends down into the nest. Apply killed spirit, dip into molten solder, allow solder to set, and then into hot water where it can stay for a few minutes (to remove the flux).

                And acetone or petrol is best to remove mineral oil – best done outside on a dry day.

                Cheers, Tim

                #496921
                Tim Hammond
                Participant
                  @timhammond72264

                  Going off-topic slightly, when I was persevering with British motorcycles many years ago, I got so fed up with nipples pulling off clutch cables that I made up new nipples from mild steel and silver soldered them to the cables. Never had a problem after that.

                  #496922
                  Martin Kyte
                  Participant
                    @martinkyte99762

                    Treat it to a new cable or gut line.

                    I wonder if these day if it would not be just as well to fill the end of the nipple with araldite or similar after splaying the end of the cable into a nicely prepared conical recess. A lot of the tension on the cable is taken up by the right angled bend as it comes out of the barrel.

                    If you solder, as I have done in the past you do get some wicking up the cable which makes it less flexible and also a certain amount of discolouration which is unsightly. The other problem with cable is it marks the barrel.

                    regards Martin

                    #496957
                    roy entwistle
                    Participant
                      @royentwistle24699

                      Thank you gentlemen. All I needed to know was how to clean the oil off the cable.

                      Roy

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