Hammerite Paint ,undercoat

[ManofkentParticipant @manofkent]

I am just starting to paint my loco.

I am using Hammerite smooth black paint for the tender top.

Trying to get a smooth finish I assumed you painted a "build" undercoat which can be rubbed down to within an inch of its life before applying top coats of Hammerite.

But the Hammerite always seems to blister when put on my undercoat meaning a complete rub down again.

I used etching primer first by the way, which seems stable enough.

So my question please – does anyone know of an appropriate undercoat or flat coat that us suitable for use with Hammerite?

Many thanks

John

[ManofkentParticipant @manofkent]

[DustyParticipant @dusty]

It appears you are getting a chemical reaction between the primer and the Hammerite As I understand it this is a paint that does not require an undercoat, and I hasten to add not a usual paint for locomotives certainly not for the superstructure. I have known it used for frames where its hardwearing qualities are utilised. You will need to go right back to bare metal before you apply any other finish otherwise any residue from previous finishes may affect new paint. My advice is bin the Hammerite and invest in any of the proprietary paints used for locomotives, they will be easier to use and give a better finish. I have even seen wonderful finishes from a 'rattle' can.

[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

I remember the "Old" hammerite paint tin instructions saying leave six weeks before applying a second coat. I still have an ancient tin somewhere I will try and find it to confirm. You will most likely get good results with an enamel, I have used "Tractol" from a agricultural supplier on machinery in the past with pleasing results.

[pgk pgkParticipant @pgkpgk17461]

I used the new hammerite smooth black last year on a length of 1" square mild steel tube (agri spray boom repair) and used it direct on bare metal. At first i was disapointed compared to 'old hammerite' – it took three brushed coats to get a decent build up (and the time between coats) but to be fair the end result was indeed smooth and it's taken abuse since and looks fine.

[Tractor manParticipant @tractorman]

I use Teamac machinery enamel on all my machines and models. They do a huge range of colours and the proper primers for the paint. If it’s good enough to paint tractors then it will cope with being on a model.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

there is also Craftmaster paint, both coach enamel and engine enamel (more hard wearing, higher temperature). It is available by post, and 500ml tins, so less expensive.

**LINK**

[mechman48Participant @mechman48]

Not a loco but Stuarts engines, my two latest engines were primed with grey etch primer, then followed up with 'Rattle can ' spray, then a coat of 'rattle can' clear lacquer & both look very pleasing… to my eye… all spray cans bought from my local Halfords ( usual disclaimer ) … in effect car body paint…

​George.

[ManofkentParticipant @manofkent]

Thanks for all your replies.

It looks like Teamac or Craftmaster will be the way to go next. Teamac to a huge range of colours, and Craftmaster have an excellent looking Heritage range. I had not come across either range prior to this thread, so that gas been very helpful.

I rubbed the tender top plate down to bare brass yesterday, finishing with a 1500 grit paper.

Two coats of Hammerite later and I have a mirror finish – albeit a bit too glossy. This was just the tender for Bantam Cock which had got a bit tatty, and I wanted it completed in time for a visit to the club next week.

My next loco – GWR tank is fast approaching paint stage. I just have to set the valve gear and mount the boiler.

SWMBO says it should be black as Bantam Cock (a TENDER engine) is green and otherwise how will she tell the difference. Oh dear.

John

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