Flamemaster Torch

Advert

Flamemaster Torch

Home Forums Workshop Tools and Tooling Flamemaster Torch

Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #20676
    Ian Stewart 12
    Participant
      @ianstewart12
      Advert
      #595613
      Ian Stewart 12
      Participant
        @ianstewart12

        I have acquired a Flamemaster torch MkII which appears identical to ones advertised in ME in the late 1950s thru 1960. It seems to be in mint condition. i wonder if anyone has access to a manual or detailed operating instructions which could be scanned and forwarded please.

        There are a couple of brief references to this torch in ME 1954 and 1956 and again in the forum a couple of years ago.

        Thank You

        Ian Stewart

         

        Edited By JasonB on 24/04/2022 10:04:48

        #595656
        bernard towers
        Participant
          @bernardtowers37738

          Photo could be handy.

          #595658
          Thor 🇳🇴
          Participant
            @thor

            Hi Ian,

            Yes, a photo could be handy as Bernard says, I assume your Flamemaster torch is similar to this?

            Thor

            #595659
            Mark Rand
            Participant
              @markrand96270

              If it is, they don't normally get on all that well with gas/air. They were designed for coal/town gas rather than natural gas or propane. Gas/oxygen works better. Either that or a redesigned burner* with flame retention features.

              * It's on my project list.

              #595667
              Bazyle
              Participant
                @bazyle

                Could be valuable in a few years when they convert the gas main to hydrogen and propane/butane has been outlawed.

                #595669
                John Hinkley
                Participant
                  @johnhinkley26699
                  Posted by Mark Rand on 24/04/2022 14:42:08:

                  If it is, they don't normally get on all that well with gas/air. They were designed for coal/town gas rather than natural gas or propane. Gas/oxygen works better. Either that or a redesigned burner* with flame retention features.

                  If you look at another ad than the one pointed to by Thor, it states it's suitable for use with butane and compressed air, albeit the "plus" version.

                  flamemaster 2

                  Good luck with that. I think I'd get something a little more modern. The clue is in the manufacturer's name!

                  John

                  #595678
                  V8Eng
                  Participant
                    @v8eng

                    I think you will find that Chance Brothers was a major company in the glass making  industry from the early 1800s until they were taken over by Pilkilngtons in the 1950s.

                    Edited By V8Eng on 24/04/2022 18:26:57

                    #595679
                    V8Eng
                    Participant
                      @v8eng

                      Deleted double post!

                      Edited By V8Eng on 24/04/2022 18:20:56

                      #595688
                      Mark Rand
                      Participant
                        @markrand96270

                        Mine is a MkII Stone-Chance variety.

                        The one in the Labs at work was the more modern version with a flame control ring on the burner.

                        #595721
                        Ian Stewart 12
                        Participant
                          @ianstewart12

                          img_20220425_095330_resized_20220425_095803101.jpgI have uploaded a couple of photos of the torch. The fitting on the end is to retain the nozzle assembly. It has to be screwed down tightly to push the nozzle against its seat, the tapered nose pushes against the three fins on the nozzle. I assume there may have been other sizes of nozzle available.

                          I guess it all comes down to the calorific value of the fuel gases. In Australia our LPG is mostly butane with a variable mix of propane. Reticulated gas is mostly methane. I believe reticulated gas in the UK in the 1950s was derived from coal and had quite a mix of gases.

                          I have a Dillon,( ie/Henrob/Cobra) torch which works very well with LPG and Oxygen, both fed in with less than 4psi. and very low flow rates.img_20220425_094356_resized_20220425_094428994.jpg

                          #595729
                          Alan Charleston
                          Participant
                            @alancharleston78882

                            flamemaster.jpgHi,

                            I used to use one of these about 50 years ago for glassblowing in a lab. It was normally operated using oxy/natural gas for pyrex glass but I think it was also possible to use air/natural gas for soda glass. It came with three nozzle sizes for different flame sizes. I have an old Gallenkamp catalogue (probably from the 1960s) which shows it. If I've done it right, the entry should show up on this post.

                            Regards,

                            Alan

                            Edited By Alan Charleston on 25/04/2022 08:05:19

                            #595756
                            Sandgrounder
                            Participant
                              @sandgrounder
                              Posted by John Hinkley on 24/04/2022 16:55:34:

                              Posted by Mark Rand on 24/04/2022 14:42:08:

                              If it is, they don't normally get on all that well with gas/air. They were designed for coal/town gas rather than natural gas or propane. Gas/oxygen works better. Either that or a redesigned burner* with flame retention features.

                              If you look at another ad than the one pointed to by Thor, it states it's suitable for use with butane and compressed air, albeit the "plus" version.

                              flamemaster 2

                              Good luck with that. I think I'd get something a little more modern. The clue is in the manufacturer's name!

                              John

                              That's very interesting, I worked at Pilkington for 30 years and have visited two Chance factories, Smethwick and St Asaph and seen plenty of gas torches but never knew Chance made them.

                              John

                              #595762
                              SillyOldDuffer
                              Moderator
                                @sillyoldduffer
                                Posted by Ian Stewart 12 on 25/04/2022 04:33:29:

                                I guess it all comes down to the calorific value of the fuel gases.

                                I suspect more to do with getting the gas/air mix right. My unmodified bunsen burner stopped working after the UK switched to natural gas. Men did something to the central heating system, cooker and gas fires just before switch over, and they flared off the Town Gas before letting us relight them.

                                I think a wider nozzle is needed to burn Methane, and they may have adjusted the air-intake as well. Town Gas was mostly Hydrogen and Carbon Monoxide, whereas Natural gas is mostly Methane. The ratio of Hydrogen to Oxygen is 1:8, whereas Methane to Oxygen is 1:4, so to burn both a torch would need a wide adjustment range. A torch driven by compressed air might well be OK for that.

                                Dave

                                #595779
                                Bazyle
                                Participant
                                  @bazyle

                                  The problem with methane is that it burns more slowly and needs more air relative to the volume of gas. Therefore in an old Bunsen burner the flame will rise up above the end of the tube when you turn the throttle up as it win't burning as fast as the gas was coming out of the tube. As the gas spreads out at the end of the tube it slows down which is why it was able to burn fast enough a little above the end of the tube. The flame is then susceptible to drafts and can blow out.
                                  So the burner end is modified with an additional ring fed by holes so some gas can slow down and ignite just above the end of the tube. This part of the flame is able to reignite the main jet.

                                  It may just be a case of finding the design of the replaceable brass nozzle bit.

                                  #595801
                                  Mark Rand
                                  Participant
                                    @markrand96270

                                    The nozzles are a very simple design with gas or air being admitted at the centre and air or gas being admitted via an annular hole, with both mixing in the nozzle's tube. I've just checked mine and it appears that the aluminium shroud which retains the nozzle has actually got a small radial clearance between itself and the end of the nozzle.

                                    It's probable that the reason for this is to avoid heating the shroud, but it does leave the possibility of drilling a small radial hole into the end portion of the nozzle to allow a leak of mixture to exit via this radial gap. That would act as a flame control ring.

                                    I've got too many other pots on the boil at the moment (See what I did there? cheeky) But when I get the round-tuit recommissioned, I might try such a modification on a copy of a burner nozzle. That's much simpler than the design I had originally considered.

                                    #595819
                                    Ian Stewart 12
                                    Participant
                                      @ianstewart12

                                      The Flamemaster has a few subtle details. The labels A and B indicate plungers operated by the trigger, A has much greater travel and adds ?fuel while B hardly moves and adds ?air/oxy. The mixing chamber looks remarkably similar to the Dillon.

                                      It will be relatively easy to make new orifice pieces to screw into the base piece. The only item which may be damaged is C1 and C2, the screw is obviously a bodge and I am unsure of the details inside C1, it looks as if it is meant to be an adjustment.

                                      burner dissection.jpg

                                    Viewing 17 posts - 1 through 17 (of 17 total)
                                    • Please log in to reply to this topic. Registering is free and easy using the links on the menu at the top of this page.

                                    Advert

                                    Latest Replies

                                    Viewing 25 topics - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)
                                    Viewing 25 topics - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)

                                    View full reply list.

                                    Advert

                                    Newsletter Sign-up