While we're at it; you've way too much overhang on that toolbit too. Pull it back into the tool holder so the amount of tool sticking out is about 1 or 1.5 times the thickness of the toolbit. Gives a way better finish due to less flex and therefore less chatter.
I'm with Ian C on not bothering to set the topslide at an angle for smaller threads.
Another way of doing it is to leave the topside in the standard position (0 degrees) and then use the topslide handle to move the tool forwards (toward headstock) a half of whatever depth of cut you are taking. This then actually moves the tool at the required 30 degree angle to do most of the cutting on the one side of the tool bit. So, if you take a 10 thou deep cut on the cross slide handle, move the top slide handle forwards by 5 thou. Tool movement forms a 1:2:3 triangle , 5 thou along, 10 thou in and 15 thou of actual tool movement along the hypotenuse. Angles of such triangle being 30, 60 and 90 degrees.
This method gives the advantage of cutting mostly on the one side of the toolbit, but saves all the faffing about changing in the topslide angle setting. Plus, it has the advantage over the angled topslide method, that when you get to the correct thread depth (which is easily read directly from the cross slide collar), you can then take another cut or two at the same depth but use the top slide to move the tool a thou or two each way each time, thus taking a very light clean up cut on one thread face at a time, giving a nice smooth finish and allowing you to fit the thread precisely to its matching nut.