Anyone with a Chester 626 mill can help me with a little problem?

[GavlarParticipant @gavlar]

I didn't think of milling with it and I'm not sure I can now as I've messed up the inside of the reducer driling through the flats. I put a bolt through and used a cordless impact driver (not the sort you whack with a hammer!) with a slotted socket, to try and vibrate it out. Didn't work.

I have used a full can of freeze spray in earlier attempts. Didn't work either.

I like the puller idea. I'll try it over the next couple of days. Thanks.

[old martParticipant @oldmart]

You might find that the MT2 used a 10mm or 3/8" drawbar which passed through the 12mm thread in the adaptor. If you can shine a light down the spindle and use a mirror to look up the adaptor, if you are lucky, some threads will be visible. Then a length of 12mm studding could remove it.

I have a slitting saw arbor in MT2 which fits in an R8 MT2 adaptor and the pair are held in the spindle with a 10mm drawbar. The 7/16" standard R8 drawbar thread is still present in the adaptor.

Flats are often put on MT centres for lathe tailstocks. Putting a spanner on and giving it a sharp tap with a copper hammer will usually break the taper.

Edited By old mart on 02/11/2020 21:41:52

[chris stephensParticipant @chrisstephens63393]

Do i understand correctly that you drilled a hole through the stuck sleeve, if so put a bar through the hole and beat soundly on a drift down the quill. I'm probably getting it wrong so dont shoot the messenger.

[Stephen DohertyParticipant @stephendoherty35581]

Can I ask if you have tried squirting some plumbers freeze gently so you don't get it on the quill?

[GavlarParticipant @gavlar]

Hi Steven, the problem was solved 15 months ago!!

I ended up removing the whole quill assembly and taking it to a local welder. (I don't weld) He filled the end of the reducer with weld to facilitate knocking it out with a rod down the quill. He gave it a tap whilst it was still hot and it popped out. No damage and no ill effects.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

For the benefit of anyone who has this problem, the first of my albums shows an extractor that I made for just this problem The reason that there are two split fittings is that the larger one is intended for use with a 5MT sleeve

The split sleeve, has an internal taper, made with a centre drill, and the cone (Loctited to the studding ) has an external taper to match. When the long nut is tightened on to the recessed cap, the tapers cause the split sleeve to expand to larger than the end of the 2-3 MT sleeve to extract it from the the quill.

The recess in the cap needs to be just a little deeper than the protrusion of the sleeve from the quill.

The nut on the studding, just below the split sleeve is so that it can be driven through, and out of the 2-3MT sleeve. The chamfer on the leading part of the split sleeve, allows it to enter, so that it can collapse to pass through.

I used 1/4 BSF, but M6 would be quite suitable, or a larger and stronger fine thread say 5/16 BSF, 5/16 UNF or M8.

You may be surprised by just how much load a 1/4 inch fine thread can exert to remove such a sleeve.

Howard

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