The rules for parting off are:
Slower than normal turning or facing.
Part off as close to the chuck as possible.
Minimal overhang of the parting tool. You need to have everything as rigid as possible.
The face of parting blade should be perpendicular to the lathe axis. (A parting blade ground at an angle will produce swarf that is wider than the groove, and likely to jam)
This where the raplaceable carbide tips score. They generally have a central groove, so that the tool mproduces two harrow streams of swarf, which curl minwards and are unlikely to jam in the groove.
Keep a slow steady feed, DON’T rush, but don’t let the tool rub! (This means that you need to have the basic skill of providing a steady feed of the tool, whatever task you are underaking on the lathe). If in dounbt, go slow!
If you can arrange a steady, if only a drip feed, supply of lubricant (Soluble or mineral oil) this will help. Machine brass and copper alloys dry, lubricate ferrous materials, but not cast iron.
If you can fit (make?) a rear toolpost, an inverted parting tool in it will improve matters (The swarf falls away, so less likely to jam)
Needless to say, the parting tool needs to be sharp (I do not use top rake; and am now so brave /over confident that I often part off under power cross feed of about 0.002″ per rev wihich leaves hands free to apply lubrication.
This is my take; others may use other methods, but H T H
Howard