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laths and mills

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  • #800699
    sonic_m1etn
    Participant
      @sonic_m1etn

      afternoon,

      A few months back I had my late grandpas 1.5″ allchin parts passed one to me, he purchased the castings etc in 1998, and has done quite a few bits, but he died in 2009 and it went to other family who didn’t know what to do with it.

      Since it coming to me I have started on finishing the boiler and items that don’t need anything like a lathe or mill. However by the end of the year I’ll be in a position for machining parts.

      So after a bit of advice re lathe / mill please

      The lathe, I remember grandpa was adamant it had to be built on a Myford ML7 (which he duly purchased and I helped him take it out the back of his metro!), however I don’t see the need to use that as when I was in college in the mid 90’s I used Colchester Student 1800, so I feel something like that would be better as I want to do some bigger machining, and a student is more than big enough, should be able to skim off some land rover brake discs!!!

      Now for a mill I’m not too sure would say something like a mid sized mill like a Warco or other manufacture of mini and mid sized mills be plenty to finish the allchin, but have enough capacity to mill parts for up to say a 6″ scale traction engine (my son picked that size not me! so unlikely) but don’t want to have bought say Warco WM14B type for instance but then do end up wanting to make a 6″ scale something in 10 or so years and then finding too small if you know what i’m getting at.

      Many thanks for any tips to help me decide what to be looking at

      Dan

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      #800702
      JasonB
      Moderator
        @jasonb

        4″ and above traction engine really wants a Bridgeport size floor standing mill not a benchtop one. Though a benchtop will be fine for just the Allchin

        #800732
        SillyOldDuffer
        Moderator
          @sillyoldduffer
          On sonic_m1etn Said:

          … 

          Now for a mill I’m not too sure would say something like a mid sized mill like a Warco or other manufacture of mini and mid sized mills be plenty to finish the allchin, but have enough capacity to mill parts for up to say a 6″ scale traction engine (my son picked that size not me! so unlikely) but don’t want to have bought say Warco WM14B type for instance but then do end up wanting to make a 6″ scale something in 10 or so years and then finding too small if you know what i’m getting at.

          Welcome to the forum.

          I suggest there’s no harm in starting with a small mill and swapping it later for a bigger one later. No need for a hobby tool to be a one off purchase that can never be changed!

          Look at it this way, today I can order a WM14 for £1345, tax and delivery included.  If it does what I need for 10 years, it costs me 37p per day, less whatever I get for it second-hand when I swap up.  Even if the mill has been reduced to scrap, I’ve had plenty of value out of it.

          What the machine is for matters; size of the work and how fast metal must be removed.  Hobby machines aren’t industrial metal munchers. Driven with due care they’re reliable, however heavy handed owners should budget for replacement gears, motors and electronics!   Or buy a mill rated for hard work.

          A WM14 should be fine for finishing an Allchin , but check the size of the largest milled part, especially if a rotary table is needed.  Wheels?

          Dave

          #800778
          Pete
          Participant
            @pete41194

            Fwiw, a mill and adding even the basic tooling to it starts to quickly add up. Depending on what you might want for extra capability and accessories, it’s not hard at all to multiply any sized mills initial price by 2-3 times over the years. Without having a lot of experience, I’d very much agree about just buying something that’s adequate or slightly larger for your Allchin project and see how that goes. Trying to buy far larger in anticipation of much larger future projects that may or may not ever happen could get expensive and waste money. At a certain point, most of us have to decide due to available space and monetary decisions what our actual project size limitations are.

            As an example, castings, materials etc for a 1.5″ scale Traction engine (or anything else) are going to cost X amount. Double that to even 3″ scale, and the material prices alone will rise by approximately 8 times.

             

             

             

            #800800
            sonic_m1etn
            Participant
              @sonic_m1etn

              morning all,

              Thanks for the replies.

              I appreciate the information, and it seems like a good idea to find a mill that’s going to be able large enough to allow me to finish this project, and get more experience with a mill.

              I know there will be more projects to do over the years, and my son has gone in gun-ho taking Mamods apart and repairing them!!

              He is also building a model plane in his school dt club so I can possibly see the need for a larger more industrial mill in future, but not yet as at 13 he may still change his mind what he wants to do lol

              So I think a new modern mill at the moment is the better option, and it being single phase from the start means one less expense.

              However I like tools and what not, and you can never have too many of them, just have to hide any deliveries from the mrs ….I bought a metal shear, and got away with it for 4 weeks until she came in to the barn and gave me the rolly eyes look.

              Ta

              Dan

              #800813
              Clive Foster
              Participant
                @clivefoster55965

                Dan

                Fundamentally it’s down to room.

                If you have the space and plan to be a manual machinist the no-brainer option is a Bridgeport mill and a 5″ or 6″ centre height ex-industrial (preferably training or maintenance shop) lathe. Colchester Student / Master, Harrison L or M,  Smart & Brown 1024 et al. Disclosure I have a Bridgeport and a 1024 VSL which play well together with a P&W B for the bigger stuff.

                Starting smaller and trading up when needed always seems the sensible option but it’s surprising how much money dribbles away in between things. Either directly or due to outgrowing tooling.

                This antediluvian penguin had to do it that way for financial and availability reasons.

                Industrial standard machines at affordable prices are very much a this century phenomenon. Last century was a different world. My pal Mike-the-Pilot jumped straight in with a Bridgeport and Master and never regretted it. Doing inflation compensated cost comparisons with my journey was “interesting” I guess he spent under half in real terms with lots less futzing around trying to make a boy do a mans job. But I’ve always been Home Shop guy working in 12 inch to the foot scale not Model Engineer.

                Size wise mills are very deceptive. They inherently sprawl and the work envelope has to include the work holding gear and tooling so, especially on smaller mills you lose a lot of space. In particular it’s easy to overlook however much room you sometimes need to set things up. Before the Bridgeport I had one of the short, 28″, table versions of the big square column bench mills. In a practical “I don’t like being buried in chips” world the bench mill was the equal of the Bridgeport but working on that little table and peering round the big square head could be a major pain. 49″ of Bridgeport table means I can just wind it out to one side if the head gets in the way.

                These days I’d take a serious look at a Trak or similar CNC equipped Bridgeport type mill rather than automatically going manual.

                Obviously you need a good drill. I found a Pollard 15AY at a price that bought my wallet out smoking but any of the heftier breed will do fine. Import or Brit. Heck talking about saving money my mate John picked up one of the big Denbigh No 1 drills on “free if you haul” basis. Most impressively capable machine. Power down feed and all. Who cares if it looked like it came out of Noahs workshop clearance once he’d finished the Ark.

                An absolute must to find something that effectively and effortlessly sharpens drills on a walk up and do in a minute or two basis. My Clarkson is great but overkill just for drills. So nice to always have a sharp drill.

                Don’t forget stock cutting. The 7″ small import bandsaws are vastly better than the smaller 6″ x 4″ breed which suffer  due to the savage blade twist between wheels and guides. Power hacksaws such as my Rapidor are virtually given away.

                Affordable VFD boxes mean that three phase is generally not an issue.

                Last point. A very important one. One “benefit” of long life is having your nose rubbed in the fact that the world changes.

                Whether you like it or not.

                Looking back over 20 or 30 years makes it obvious. That the post year 2000 world is very different than pre 2000 means that date needs to be factored in when taking advice. Cheap computing power everywhere makes me think another shift is on its way.

                Clive

                #800816
                SillyOldDuffer
                Moderator
                  @sillyoldduffer

                  Not so much the cost as the hassle factor.   Finding exactly what’s wanted secondhand can take ages especially if one cares about condition.   Then there’s the problem of moving and installing it, the latter getting tricky if 3-phase is needed.  How tricky varies between simply adding a good-to-go off-the-shelf VFD, to a nightmare conversion of a 415V dual speed machine with  lamps, coolant pumps and other accessories, and a complex control system.   Not for the faint hearted with limited electrical skills!   Sadly, most electricity suppliers aren’t keen to provide 3-phase to domestic customers.  Experiences vary, but I guess it’s a combination of factors – cabling and metering a 3-phase to supply to a customer who burns penny packet quantities of power just isn’t worth their while! And cabling can be hideously expensive if trenches have to be dug etc.

                  Buying new saves a lot of bother.  Plenty of choice, delivery usually included, takes less than 10 minutes to order a machine, and no need to worry about condition.   If a lemon arrives or parts are missing, happens occasionally, the supplier will sort it out.

                  Having a barn reduces hassle considerably!  Most Model Engineers have to think carefully about machines because they are space constrained or have access problems.   Barns have good access, plenty of room, and their owners often have tractors and fork-lifts that make moving big lathes easy.   Might be in an industrial setting with 3-phase near too.   Owning a barn is a big plus.

                  The 13 year old is a red-herring.   This is really about dad!  The boy should be encouraged but don’t expect him to take to machining and stick with it.  More likely he will be distracted by school, university, social life, job, family, money and other grown-up challenges for decades.  And these days youngsters are more likely to get into “making” than traditional metalwork – computers, electronics, 3D-printing, quadcopters, gaming accessories, and such.  Though the seed was planted in my youth, my interest in metalwork lay fallow until retirement made time and money available.   So do your best for the lad, but buy what you want!

                  The WM14 being a bench-top machine is both good and bad.  Good that it’s a competent mill that fits into a small space.  Bad is  the size of job it can tackle is limited.   A WM16 is pretty much the same machine scaled up, so it can do more.  The WM18 is bigger again, too large for a bench, and a 13 year old will have trouble raising the head unless he stands on a box and has a strong right arm!  Small people apart, bigger mills reduce hassle because the operator doesn’t have to worry about how to squeeze big jobs on to a small machine.  And bigger tend to be more rigid and powerful too.  My ideal would be a Bridgeport style mill, but I don’t have space for it.  To own one I’d have to move house, mega-hassle!

                  Finally, the WM machines are badged by Warco, a supplier I’ve used without grief, including them fixing a problem!  Similar machines are available from other suppliers, so you might check them.  They advertise on the forum and in the magazine.  Another hint, the British manuals are thin, but pretty much the same machines are sold in the US by Grizzly.  Their manuals are noticeably better and free online.

                  Dave

                   

                   

                   

                  #800821
                  sonic_m1etn
                  Participant
                    @sonic_m1etn
                    On Clive Foster Said:

                    Dan

                    Fundamentally it’s down to room.

                    …..

                    Morning Clive,

                    Room is not too much of an issue at the moment. I would be looking for a student 1800 type lathe, in any case, but take on your thoughts about the mill.

                    Didn’t think of set up space and work space etc for mills and interesting about even a smaller bench mill could be harder to use than the bigger ones, but makes sense the way you have described it.

                    I’ll be honest I’ve never thought about going straight in and look at older CNC machines, I think maybe because all I did at college 30 years ago was manual work, then when I did a few bits after with grandpa it was on his Myford ML7 – ultimately I am an electronic engineer working on critical DC and battery systems now as specialised that route of engineering after doing the general engineering NVQ at college.

                    Creating 3ph is not an issues as can either use VFD’s or even build my own converters.

                    I also prefer the industrial used machines as they will have dinks and what not on them already, which means if I add another dink to the paint work i’m not going to be miffed if it was brand new.

                    Thanks for your input.

                    Regards

                    Dan

                    #800825
                    sonic_m1etn
                    Participant
                      @sonic_m1etn

                      Hi Dave,

                      Thanks for you comments as well, yeah my son is being encouraged (he loves woodwork – better at it than me!, learning about model engineering, and repairing household item etc), I am not a pro machinist, just a hobby, as I went the electronics route after college, and work in DC power and batteries.

                      If I need 3ph it not an issue as I can create it using electronics or even the old way of an old induction motor and load of capacitors. I would have to create my own as the transformer that feeds us is single phase only, and don’t want to pay national grid for a new one hahaha

                      Again thanks for you input, certainly allows me to make a decent and informed choice.

                      Regards

                      Dan

                      #800858
                      Clive Foster
                      Participant
                        @clivefoster55965

                        Hi Dan

                        After doing the  redundancy / part time consultant thing in 2004 I upgraded my home workshop into something sufficiently industrial to take in part time paying work. Initially planning to supplement consultancy income and, later, generate some money alongside aged parent carer duties. So I got a first hand look at how things had changed from when I built up the original shop between 1975 and 1995 (ish). In the event the consultancy thing was much more lucrative than expected (3 years full time!) so I did very little paying work but got some serious help from the taxman towards a very nicely kitted out toybox.

                        These days a Bridgeport style machine with Anilam, Trak or whatever “finger-cam” CNC box can be got at an inflation corrected price pretty equivalent to the installed cost of my Bridgeport after essential overhaul and adding a Sino DRO glass scale set.

                        Cost of upgrading old electronics is dropping steadily too so moving form a more basic box to full “direct from 3D CAD” CNC has become much more practical. It’s noteworthy that getting stuff to do the once popular manual Bridgeport to CNC conversion has gotten much harder since maybe 2020.

                        Concerning lathes have you considered looking into the “teach” type CNC/Manual crossover machines. After correcting for inflation real world used machine prices seem to be dropping towards something similar to what I paid for my 1024 in 2004.

                        Before getting the Master and 1024 respectively Mike-the-Pilot and I took a very serious look at retrieving a pair of Harrison Trainer 280 CNC teaching lathes from deepest darkest Wales before ruling it out due to cost professional  transport cost to Sussex. In the event this would have been viable due to simple CNC running off (basically) a BBC micro with plain stepper drives making them easily upgradable. More modern machines are much more useable as is.

                        Now that 3D CAD programs like Fusion et al are readily available old style manual only is starting to look as obsolete as chalk marks on the dial and calipers. There is no doubt that modern 3D CAD and CNC vastly expands what it is practical to do. If i were 10 years younger I’d likely be mid way through switch.

                        Fundamentally what you get now is likely to nail your situation for the next 20 years. By which time shifting a pure manual machine may well be near impossible.

                        Clive

                        #800874
                        Vic
                        Participant
                          @vic

                          Given the budget and the space I would say to get the biggest mill you can. Mills definitely benefit from having more mass. A small mill may do all that you require size wise but may be limiting in the depth of cut and surface finish.

                          #800877
                          Dave Halford
                          Participant
                            @davehalford22513

                            Big mills are cheaper.

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