3D Filament Printer Upgrade

Advert

3D Filament Printer Upgrade

Home Forums 3D Printers and 3D Printing 3D Filament Printer Upgrade

Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #797117
    Julie Ann
    Participant
      @julieann

      My 3D filament printer (Ultimaker2) recently stopped working; the extruder failing to heat up. The heater cartridge measures correctly, so something else in the chain has failed.

      The Ultimaker2 is 12 years old, has printed thousands of parts, and has had a series of print issues recently. The printer is no longer supported by the manufacturer and while some limited spares are available from third parties they are a pain to purchase. While I could continue to troubleshoot the problem I have done enough debugging professionally to not be thrilled about doing more. Given these points, and the fact that 3D printing has moved on in the last 12 years, I decided to invest in a new 3D filament printer.

      Having bought a 3D resin printer from Prusa a few months ago I looked at their new 3D filament printer, the CORE One. Unsurprisingly this is leaps ahead of the Ultimaker2, so I ordered one. I went for the assembled version of the CORE One rather than the self-assembly kit as the cost saving wasn’t great and the word is that kit assembly takes a lot of time. It took about a month to ship and I got it at the beginning of this week. I’ve been away helping my mum for a couple of days, but have finally got to use the printer. Here is the CORE One in situ:

      Prusa CORE One

      Setting up the printer was fairly simple, just follow the instructions on the LCD display. The only hiccup was connecting the ribbon cable connector on the back of the LCD module. Not sure what make of connector it was but not one I would ever want to use in my designs. After printing a test piece I printed some of my own parts:

      3D Printed Painting Fixtures

      These are simple fixtures to hold parts for my engines while they are being painted. Nothing fancy but I am very impressed with the speed of print and the print quality. The build quality of the printer is also very good.

      Julie

      Advert
      #797188
      Fatgadgi
      Participant
        @fatgadgi

        Very nice indeed Julie!

        I bought a Mk4 last year and it’s been exceptional – it just prints perfectly every time. Well, that is once I started priming the hotplate with pva to stop the petg sticking 🙄

        Hopefully you’ll get another 12 years out of yours 😊

        #797385
        Julie Ann
        Participant
          @julieann

          When I bought my 3D resin printer I was influenced by my neighbour who has had a Prusa filament printer for some years. I am not sure what the original model was but it is now up to the latest Mk4 version with a 5 colour filament feeder. My neighbour mostly uses PETG so I ought to try it in due course. A big plus for me is that the Prusa printers just work. I want to make parts, not faff about trying to make tools work.

          For painting fixtures PLA is good enough and of course the fixtures get recycled after use so no point in using spendy filament. The new printer has been busy today while I was outside weeding in the garden. Among other items printed were the firebars, based on full size drawings, for my engines; an outside one (with the serrations) and a simpler inner one:

          3D Printed Firebars

          Eventually the 3D printed firebars will be used as patterns for iron castings.

          Julie

          #797433
          noel shelley
          Participant
            @noelshelley55608

            If you are printing foundry patterns from drawings don’t forget the draft angle and as important any machining allowance plus the  shrinkage allowance.  Those prints look very good. I know that 3D printing has come a long way but simple/cheaper printers gave prints that only with much remedial work were any good as patterns due to the ridges between layers. Best wishes  Noel.

            #798724
            Julie Ann
            Participant
              @julieann

              Thanks for the tips; the parts incorporate draft as the firebars are tapered to allow ash to fall through without getting stuck. No machining will be needed! I’ve been advised by a foundry to allow about 0.5% for shrinkage; at the lower end for cast iron but I’d rather the parts were smaller than nominal than oversize.

              Julie

            Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
            • Please log in to reply to this topic. Registering is free and easy using the links on the menu at the top of this page.

            Advert

            Latest Replies

            Viewing 25 topics - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)
            Viewing 25 topics - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)

            View full reply list.

            Advert

            Newsletter Sign-up