Cowells 90ME 14×1.5 backplate question

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Cowells 90ME 14×1.5 backplate question

Home Forums General Questions Cowells 90ME 14×1.5 backplate question

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  • #583182
    Chris Veitch
    Participant
      @chrisveitch14689

      I've recently bought an older Cowells 90ME with the older 14×1.5mm spindle. It's a great machine (I've wanted one for years) and appears to in excellent condition and been very well cared for.

      However the 3-jaw chuck is came with isn't terribly accurate, I suspect due to jaw wear – it looks to me as though one jaw isn't closing right up. The chuck itself runs true with only about 0.05mm eccentricity when measured on the chuck body, but I'm not sure that this means much.

      Obviously the 14×1.5mm spindle is a problem with obtaining chucks, but it did occur to me that I have a chuck with a good backplate – this is a 3-screw plate (obviously?) of about 37mm diameter. Can anyone tell me if there are any decent 3-jaw chucks available which might fit this backplate? Better still, has anyone experience of fitting one to a Cowells 90?

      Thanks in advance,

      Chris

       

      Edited By Chris Veitch on 30/01/2022 20:46:03

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      #28550
      Chris Veitch
      Participant
        @chrisveitch14689
        #583183
        David George 1
        Participant
          @davidgeorge1

          Hi have a look at Rotagrip they have M14 mount chucks. If you have a problem ring and ask.

          http://www.rotagriponline.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=29

          David

          Edited By David George 1 on 30/01/2022 20:57:21

          #583184
          Dave Halford
          Participant
            @davehalford22513

            I would buy a 14 x 1.5mm tap and a disc of 6mm steel plate or cast iron and machine as required.

            #583194
            Robert Butler
            Participant
              @robertbutler92161

              Cowells list the spindle thread as M14 X 1 – not 1.5, RD list a number, but describe as Economy Workshop Grade. Cowells list the chuck at £345 which may not include VAT or postage!! Ouch!!

              Robert Butler

              Edited By Robert Butler on 30/01/2022 21:31:46

              #583195
              Paul Lousick
              Participant
                @paullousick59116

                The jaws on chucks do wear and can be ground with the aid of a special "spider" as shown in this link (and others on Youtube)

                **LINK**

                #583196
                Michael Gilligan
                Participant
                  @michaelgilligan61133
                  Posted by Robert Butler on 30/01/2022 21:31:17:

                  Cowells list the spindle thread as M14 X 1 – not 1.5 …

                  .

                  That’s the current version … they were originally 1.5

                  MichaelG.

                  .

                  cowells_early_spindle.jpeg

                  Edited By Michael Gilligan on 30/01/2022 21:42:05

                  #583197
                  Robert Butler
                  Participant
                    @robertbutler92161

                    Michael G thank you, I knew they had changed but only maintaining a passing interest in Cowells I was unaware of the "from what to what factor".

                    Robert Butler

                    #583198
                    DiodeDick
                    Participant
                      @diodedick

                      Yes, they were 14mm x 1.5p, but changed to 1mm pitch to enable the use of Unimat accessories. I bought a 14x 1.5p tap. Turned a backplate from round bar and fitted a Unimat 3 jaw to that. The end-mill holder in my photos uses a similar backplate for the same reason.

                      Dick

                      #583200
                      Chris Veitch
                      Participant
                        @chrisveitch14689
                        Posted by DiodeDick on 30/01/2022 21:48:32:

                        Yes, they were 14mm x 1.5p, but changed to 1mm pitch to enable the use of Unimat accessories. I bought a 14x 1.5p tap. Turned a backplate from round bar and fitted a Unimat 3 jaw to that. The end-mill holder in my photos uses a similar backplate for the same reason.

                        Dick

                        Thanks for that. I'd seen it suggested elsewhere but the opinion seemed to be that a tap wasn't accurate enough and it would need to be cut on the lathe – which I'm not confident with as I've never actually done any screw cutting.

                        However if your method worked OK I'd be happy to give at try – it's not going to cost the earth.

                        #583202
                        Andy Carlson
                        Participant
                          @andycarlson18141

                          Hi Chris,

                          Hope you enjoy your new (to you) Cowells.

                          I also have a Cowells with the M14 x 1.5 spindle. Mine had a decent assortment of chucks when I bought it but I've since made an ER16 collet holder. My lathe is set up for thread cutting so I did most of the thread using an internal single point tool and then used an M14 x 1.5 plug tap (from Tracy Tools) to finish the thread off.

                          If you want to make a backplate and have no thread cutting setup (yet) then a second cut tap would be a better bet.

                          Out of interest, which 3 jaw do you have? I have the Pratt Burnerd tommy bar one. Mine is threaded for the spindle – there is no backplate, so I'm guessing you have the Toyo style one with the scroll gear around the outside?

                          Did yours come with any other chucks or the faceplate or is the 3 jaw the only one you have at the mo?

                          #583206
                          Chris Veitch
                          Participant
                            @chrisveitch14689
                            Posted by Andy Carlson on 30/01/2022 22:33:43:

                            Hi Chris,

                            Hope you enjoy your new (to you) Cowells.

                            I also have a Cowells with the M14 x 1.5 spindle. Mine had a decent assortment of chucks when I bought it but I've since made an ER16 collet holder. My lathe is set up for thread cutting so I did most of the thread using an internal single point tool and then used an M14 x 1.5 plug tap (from Tracy Tools) to finish the thread off.

                            If you want to make a backplate and have no thread cutting setup (yet) then a second cut tap would be a better bet.

                            Out of interest, which 3 jaw do you have? I have the Pratt Burnerd tommy bar one. Mine is threaded for the spindle – there is no backplate, so I'm guessing you have the Toyo style one with the scroll gear around the outside?

                            Did yours come with any other chucks or the faceplate or is the 3 jaw the only one you have at the mo?

                            Thanks Andy – it's certainly a beautifully made machine and makes my Unit 3 look distinctly crude.

                            Yes, I think I have a Toyo – it's the one with the scroll gear and is marked "3001 TML (UC)". I also acquired a 4-jaw with the lathe which seems little used and in very good condition – not sure of the brand.

                            I do have the facilities to cut the thread as I also have a Warco Chinese 7×10, but I've never actually used it – or any other lathe – for thread cutting.

                            #583208
                            Andy Carlson
                            Participant
                              @andycarlson18141

                              Sounds like you're good to go… it's just a matter of choosing which way to tackle the job

                              The tap should give you a decent thread. What it won't necessarily do is give you brilliant concentricity… but you can work around that by doing the threaded hole first and then mounting the incomplete backplate onto your Cowells spindle and doing the rest of the job that way. Anything cut after that should be concentric to your threaded hole.

                              Naturally it's not quite that simple… you also need a face that will locate against the spindle shoulder that is perpendicular to the thread, plus the register recess (the plain bit next to the spindle shoulder) so you will still have some thinking to do… but most jobs have a snag or two like that… keeps the brain exercised.

                              A single point threading tool on the other hand should give you a thread that is nicely concentric to the job in whatever you are holding it in… but it won't give you a proper thread form because it's just a simple 'V'… so finishing with a tap is still a good option for that reason. Of course if the job was held in something inaccurate when you single pointed the thread then the concentricity goes out of the window as soon as you take it out.

                              #583479
                              Howard Lewis
                              Participant
                                @howardlewis46836

                                On any lathe, making a backplate, once the tread has been cut, the plate can be reversed and the register machined.

                                The backplate can now be fitted "Right way Round". It should now be concentric to the spindle, so that the backplate can be faced, and the register for the chuck turned, to minimise ecentricity (or maximise concentricity- if you want to put it that way )

                                HTH

                                Howard

                                Fat fingers strike again!

                                Edited By Howard Lewis on 01/02/2022 16:13:10

                                #583520
                                Colin Heseltine
                                Participant
                                  @colinheseltine48622

                                  I also have a Cowells ME90. This also had the M14x1.5 spindle. Because of the various chucks and tooling for my Cowell milling machine, Aciera and BCA machines I opted to upgrade to the later M14 x1.0 spindle. I can now move chucks, faceplates, collets around between all machines including my Myford Super 7.

                                  Enjoy your Cowells lathe, they are great little machines.

                                  Colin

                                  #583653
                                  metalfettler
                                  Participant
                                    @metalfettler

                                    Thanks MichaelG for posting the spindle drawing for the Cowells lathe. The drawing includes date and address of Cowells in Norwich.

                                    This interested me since I have never seen reference to the original firm before (going back to 1950s) although the 'Horsford Ironworks' was still standing when last I looked. Web searches have never elicited the origins of the marque – even Tony at lathes.com (Buxton) only details the current Cowells company.

                                    My father served some of an apprenticeship at the original Cowells, disrupted by wartime. He recounted a story of the firm purchasing govt. surplus nuts and bolts which needed sorting from their packaging in old oil drums – not nice in the 1947 winter. One drum served as a crude paraffin heater !

                                    Anyway thanks for updating my awareness of another historic toy.

                                    Regards, Les

                                    #583656
                                    duncan webster 1
                                    Participant
                                      @duncanwebster1
                                      Posted by Howard Lewis on 01/02/2022 16:12:27:

                                      On any lathe, making a backplate, once the tread has been cut, the plate can be reversed and the register machined.

                                      ……….

                                      Edited By Howard Lewis on 01/02/2022 16:13:10

                                      I wouldn't do it that way round, I'd have the faceplate with the back facing out, machine thread spigot and locating face all at one setting, then fit it to the Cowells and face it off. It is then guaranteed to be concentric and face square to axis.

                                      I also agree that thread be got near to size by screwcutting, only clean it up with a tap.

                                      #583685
                                      Andy Carlson
                                      Participant
                                        @andycarlson18141
                                        Posted by LG on 02/02/2022 18:07:09:

                                        Web searches have never elicited the origins of the marque – even Tony at lathes.com (Buxton) only details the current Cowells company.

                                        I'm not sure if the company was around prior to the lathe but the origin of the lathe design is a tale of its own. I think a lot of it is on Tony's site but you may need to hop around a bit.

                                        The lathe design was the Perris lathe before it became Cowells. Brian Perris died in 1976 and Cowells took over the design and started selling it soon afterwards – initialy pretty much unchanged but over time things evolved, for example the headstock casting, handwheels and most obviously the current cast base.

                                        The antecedents are reckoned to include the Flexispeed Meteor, Simat and then the Perris. Personally I struggle to see how to turn this into a set of evolutionary steps From Flexispeed to Cowells and in fact it's not as simple as that. I think that several of the designs were available at the same time from various companies in Norfolk. The Wexler Hector is another one that has strong connections – the bed design is very different but they share a lot of parts in common with the Cowells. I've even have a sales flyer with the Hector badged as a 'Cowells 100E'. As far as I know this particular badging did not get beyond the sales flyer.

                                        Also bear in mind that there is a 'Cowell' shaper – this is another company entirely.

                                        #583686
                                        Michael Gilligan
                                        Participant
                                          @michaelgilligan61133
                                          Posted by LG on 02/02/2022 18:07:09:

                                          Thanks MichaelG for posting the spindle drawing for the Cowells lathe. The drawing includes date and address of Cowells in Norwich.

                                          […]

                                          .

                                          You’re very welcome, Les

                                          That drawing was sent to me when I enquired about the dimensions, prior purchasing the spindle to upgrade a little Goodell-Pratt polishing lathe [sometime in the mid1970s, if I recall correctly].

                                          MichaelG.

                                          #583722
                                          michael potts
                                          Participant
                                            @michaelpotts88182

                                            I also have an early Cowells lathe with the 14 X 1.5 mm mandrel purchased about ten years ago. It came without very many accessories, until someone decided to sell many accessories with this spec of mandrel. Having collected them, I decided to check the lathe over as the mandrel bearings had been remade after one of the bearing caps had been fractured. This was the first time I had ever done this, and the results were not good. The dowell pins in the headstock had been filed – not a good sign. Then the alignment was not correct, the mandrel was pointing up and to the rear. So I checked it again and then again the following day. No changes could be seen, so I took the head stock off the bed. On inspection I found two pieces of brass swarf under the head stock. I cleaned everything, obtained new dowell pins and reassembled the lathe. Realignment took well over an hour to complete, but at the end everything lined up to within about half a thou. I decided that this was adequate, if not perfect, sat back, wiped my brow and had a cup of tea.

                                            I fitted the lathe on an old sewing machine stand, and it worked very nicely. The only problems are slipping belts.

                                            The ins and outs of the Perris lathe, its variants, and the Cowells lathe seem to be complicated to put it mildly. The article ' Evolution of the Perris Lathe ' on the lathes.uk website is worth reading. How much is fact and what is opinion is difficult to work out. Brian Perris seems to have been killed in a car accident at the end of 1976. Within a year the PL90 lathe was back in production as the Cowells lathe. It says something that it is still with us.

                                            The design was metricated very quickly, if only partially. Perris lathe dimensions are still used, notably on the mandrel, and there is one BA threaded hole on the cross slide. Care is needed when the smaller and less used screws have to be dealt with, or replaced.

                                            Mike Potts.

                                            #583725
                                            Frances IoM
                                            Participant
                                              @francesiom58905

                                              Brian Perris would appear to have a hand in many designs including those to be sold under different names – possibly he over extended his small company as Cowells seemed to have picked up the company and assets in a fire sale shortly after Perris’s death – I too have a late Perris ME90 but without the screw cutting extras – as many have said a great little lathe

                                              #583739
                                              Andy Carlson
                                              Participant
                                                @andycarlson18141
                                                Posted by michael potts on 03/02/2022 11:23:29:

                                                The ins and outs of the Perris lathe, its variants, and the Cowells lathe seem to be complicated to put it mildly. The article ' Evolution of the Perris Lathe ' on the lathes.uk website is worth reading. How much is fact and what is opinion is difficult to work out. Brian Perris seems to have been killed in a car accident at the end of 1976. Within a year the PL90 lathe was back in production as the Cowells lathe. It says something that it is still with us.

                                                The design was metricated very quickly, if only partially. Perris lathe dimensions are still used, notably on the mandrel, and there is one BA threaded hole on the cross slide. Care is needed when the smaller and less used screws have to be dealt with, or replaced.

                                                Thanks for that. I think I have read that article before but it was good to read it again. I think it stops short of suggesting that the Perris is a descendant of the Flexispeed/Simat designs but I've seen it said elsewhere. I'd steer clear of saying so too – even the very first Perris on Tony's site has a slotted bed and tailstock design that looks like the current Cowells and completely different from the Flexi and Simat. The (worm?) power feed drive design on the Flexi and Simat is also something that as far as I can see never appeared on the Perris models.

                                                Maybe there is a 'missing link' somewhere out there that will convince me otherwise.

                                                I hadn't spotted the point before now that Brian Perris had a hand in the Hector, so clearly Norwich/Norfolk is not the only common factor.

                                                A few other minor quibbles…

                                                I don't think the colour scheme changed between Perris and Cowells as stated in the article – the tourquoise blue hammered finish of the early Cowells can definitely be seen in photos of later Perris lathes. IMHO it's the best of all the colour schemes. I always thought I was unmoved by such shallow cosmetic questions, but it seems not

                                                Having the 'Cowells' name cast in was also not immediate – the early ones had a recess with a sticker in it and no lettering on the tailstock.

                                                Most Cowells have a number stamped into the end of the bed… but I have come across at least one proveably early Cowells example that has no stamped bed number. AFAIK the Perris made lathes did not have a stamped bed number but I haven't asked many people so I could be wrong.

                                                Still an excellent article though.

                                                Sorry, I'm going on a bit… It's a bit of a pet subject of mine.

                                                #583938
                                                Chris Veitch
                                                Participant
                                                  @chrisveitch14689
                                                  Posted by Andy Carlson on 03/02/2022 13:27:26:

                                                  Posted by michael potts on 03/02/2022 11:23:29:

                                                  Most Cowells have a number stamped into the end of the bed… but I have come across at least one proveably early Cowells example that has no stamped bed number. AFAIK the Perris made lathes did not have a stamped bed number but I haven't asked many people so I could be wrong.

                                                  Still an excellent article though.

                                                  Sorry, I'm going on a bit… It's a bit of a pet subject of mine.

                                                  Not at all – this archaeology is fascinating to me, especially as I’ve only come into contact with a Cowells very recently (obviously). Can you tell me where exactly the serial number is usually to be found? I’ve had a look for one on mine in the hope that it would tell me a little more about it but couldn’t find one.

                                                  #583972
                                                  Andy Carlson
                                                  Participant
                                                    @andycarlson18141
                                                    Posted by Chris Veitch on 05/02/2022 08:19:31:

                                                    Posted by Andy Carlson on 03/02/2022 13:27:26:

                                                    Posted by michael potts on 03/02/2022 11:23:29:

                                                    Most Cowells have a number stamped into the end of the bed… but I have come across at least one proveably early Cowells example that has no stamped bed number. AFAIK the Perris made lathes did not have a stamped bed number but I haven't asked many people so I could be wrong.

                                                    Still an excellent article though.

                                                    Sorry, I'm going on a bit… It's a bit of a pet subject of mine.

                                                    Not at all – this archaeology is fascinating to me, especially as I’ve only come into contact with a Cowells very recently (obviously). Can you tell me where exactly the serial number is usually to be found? I’ve had a look for one on mine in the hope that it would tell me a little more about it but couldn’t find one.

                                                    p1080050.jpg

                                                    #583976
                                                    Colin Heseltine
                                                    Participant
                                                      @colinheseltine48622

                                                      Out of interest can anyone put approximate dates to serial numbers.

                                                      My Cowells is 1524.

                                                      Colin

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