How o Remove Chester Super Lux Motor

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How o Remove Chester Super Lux Motor

This topic has 18 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 16 December 2018 at 17:21 by Colin Heseltine.

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11 December 2018 at 15:29 #385071
Colin Heseltine
Participant
@colinheseltine48622
You may have seen a post re my electrical problems with motor on Chester Super Lux Mill. The combined might of this site has determined that the problem is most likely the centrifugal switch. Unfortunately this is not located in the rear of the motor casing so I need to remove the motor to check the front casing.

I have removed the 4 cap head bolts holding motor to the head/gear casing. The motor and base plate will spin round but I do not have the strength to lift it up or there is something else holding it. The flange is completely flat against the head and cannot get a screwdriver in to ease it up and out.

Any ideas, I do not want to break a lug of the flange.

Colin
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11 December 2018 at 15:29 #13372
Colin Heseltine
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@colinheseltine48622
11 December 2018 at 16:06 #385075
FMES
Participant
@fmes
Colin,

Any point in speaking to Chester direct?

Head Office & Showroom:
Clwyd Close, Hawarden Industrial Park, Hawarden, Nr Chester, CH5 3PZ.
T: +44 (0)1244 531631
F: +44 (0)1244 531331

Regards
11 December 2018 at 16:20 #385077
John Rudd
Participant
@johnrudd16576
Manual here…

https://d28lcup14p4e72.cloudfront.net/171684/2072591/Superlux_Manual.doc
11 December 2018 at 16:50 #385080
Les Jones 1
Participant
@lesjones1
Hi Colin,
I would make a plate that fixes on the top end of the motor and fix it to the motor using the three threaded holes that retained the top end plate. Make sure that you get a good length of thread in the threaded holes. I think some reasonable thickness plywood would be strong enough for the plate. Also drill a number of holes (3 or 4) on a PCD a bit larger than the mounting flange. Make some spacer blocks from wood that have about 20mm clearance under the plate. Insert a bolt with a nut on from underneath the plate an put one of the blocks under it. Do the same with all the holes. Use the bolts and nuts to jack the plate up to lift the motor. From the link John has posted it looks like the motor shaft fits into another shaft with a keyway.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/12/2018 16:51:28

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/12/2018 16:54:47
11 December 2018 at 17:32 #385085
larry phelan 1
Participant
@larryphelan1
Not likely to be of any help,but why does the Super Lux have such a switch and does the "Common or garden" model have one too ? Just asking in case I ever come across it,since I have a LUX !
11 December 2018 at 17:44 #385088
FMES
Participant
@fmes
Posted by larry phelan 1 on 11/12/2018 17:32:40:

Not likely to be of any help,but why does the Super Lux have such a switch and does the "Common or garden" model have one too ? Just asking in case I ever come across it,since I have a LUX !

Tried that larry, nobody took any notice.
11 December 2018 at 18:25 #385099
Clive Foster
Participant
@clivefoster55965
I lifted the motor off my LUX style mill by strapping it to the roof trusses of the shed via suitable hooks and winding the head down. With assistance to unhook the straps I was able to unhook get the motor down. As I recall it mine could only be pulled out over limited arc of motion due to the pulley not passing through the off centre aperture.

Re-assembly proved not to be a reversal of the disassembly process. I ended up rotating the head through 90° so the motor, still slung from the roof, could be slid in horizontally. Still a considerable faff but by juggling head height and swing of the motor in its sling everything went back together. In retrospect rotating the head through 90° and pulling the motor out horizontally would probably have been a better way to remove it.

However my LUX style mill was a one off with two speed belt drive and VFD motor control bought in by Chester to test the market. No gearbox innards and no oil in the case so no chance of oil leaking everywhere when the head was rotated. Standard one with the mechanical gearbox may let oil out if rotated to horizontal. Best to check, hopefully the book will say.

Clive.
11 December 2018 at 18:32 #385101
Neil Wyatt
Moderator
@neilwyatt
Posted by FMES on 11/12/2018 17:44:25:

Posted by larry phelan 1 on 11/12/2018 17:32:40:

Not likely to be of any help,but why does the Super Lux have such a switch and does the "Common or garden" model have one too ? Just asking in case I ever come across it,since I have a LUX !

Tried that larry, nobody took any notice.

The centrifugal switch?

Larger motors have them they allow a starting winding to help the motor get going in the right direction and up to speed. When running fast enough the switch takes the start winding out of circuit before it overheats.

Neil
11 December 2018 at 18:56 #385105
John Rudd
Participant
@johnrudd16576
My Chester 9 x 20 had a 3/4hp motor, that had a cs. Does that class it as a larger motor?
11 December 2018 at 19:13 #385110
not done it yet
Participant
@notdoneityet
A required extra for installations that start under even a fairly light load. Most bench grinders have one and likely all compressors, too, as examples.
11 December 2018 at 22:01 #385157
Colin Heseltine
Participant
@colinheseltine48622
John Rudd,

Thank you for the link to the manual. For some reason it only opens up as total gobbledygook as it appears to have lost all formatting. Is there any other way of sensing the link,

Colin
11 December 2018 at 22:11 #385161
Colin Heseltine
Participant
@colinheseltine48622
Les,

I understand how your suggesting I do this. The three screws which hole the read end cover are 5mm pozi which go into the motor body somewhere around 5mm. If I leave the rear end cover off and use M5 all-thread screwed in 10mm hopefully that will take the load.

Colin
11 December 2018 at 22:14 #385163
FMES
Participant
@fmes
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 11/12/2018 18:32:17:

Posted by FMES on 11/12/2018 17:44:25:

Posted by larry phelan 1 on 11/12/2018 17:32:40:

Not likely to be of any help,but why does the Super Lux have such a switch and does the "Common or garden" model have one too ? Just asking in case I ever come across it,since I have a LUX !

Tried that larry, nobody took any notice.

The centrifugal switch?

Larger motors have them they allow a starting winding to help the motor get going in the right direction and up to speed. When running fast enough the switch takes the start winding out of circuit before it overheats.

Neil

I think that some of these machine motors are PSC types, the 3hp Single Phase 2-Pole Motor on my compressor certainly didn't have a CS.
11 December 2018 at 22:35 #385171
Les Jones 1
Participant
@lesjones1
Hi Colin,
I did not realise that the screws were so small. I dont think I would risk them for lifting the motor. You might be able to use two pieces of wood to lever it up on the bottom end of the cooling fins. It would be a good idea to get someone to help by steadying the motor as you are levering it up. Another possibility would be to clamp two pieces of wood (Say about 4" x 1" cross section with one or two lengths of threaded rod each side of the motor. Yoh could then screw blocks of wood to the pieces clamping the motor and use jacking bolts to lift against the blocks..

This is the picture from the document in John's link showing the gearbox. It does not show the coupling to the motor very well. I think the end of the motor shaft fits into the end of the shaft item 31 on the drawing.

Les.

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/12/2018 22:38:28

Edited By Les Jones 1 on 11/12/2018 22:40:01
11 December 2018 at 22:50 #385176
Jon
Participant
@jon
Took some lifting off its a good fit in top casting.
Simple just prise it up and lift off standing on a bench.

Sure mine has a woodruff key for cog attached, the whole lot came out each time had it off.
14 December 2018 at 21:28 #385708
Colin Heseltine
Participant
@colinheseltine48622
Having a good fight with this motor. Spent several hours today trying to move the motor. Initially trying to use wedges to raise the motor. Moved it about 20thou but no more. The motor will turn in the head casting so it is not being held by the flange. Made a wooden clamp to go round the motor body so as to be able to use a hydraulic wedge in conjunction with the wedge and large screwdrivers.. No effect whatsoever. Engineer friend of mine came round to assist for half an hour. With two of us trying one each side we were able to get the flange about 1mm clear of the casing. The motor flange does not appear to be held in any way. All we can think is that the keyed motor shaft is held tight in the shaft in the gearhead. We will have another go on Sunday but I am extremely worried about breaking the aluminium motor flange. I am going to try and buy some wedges tomorrow so we can try and get it from 3 locations.

Colin
16 December 2018 at 14:04 #385969
FMES
Participant
@fmes
Looking at the similarity of one of our work mills, it may be that you have to remove the whole top plate as the gearbox input shaft is pinned to the motor shaft and the whole lot comes out as an assembly.

Regards
16 December 2018 at 17:21 #385994
Colin Heseltine
Participant
@colinheseltine48622
It took two of us, plus three large H/D flat blade screwdrivers, two of the old fashioned wedge type taper breakers and a couple of copper headed hammers and half hour of hammering and levering before it came free. It was absolutely solid in the spindle in the head.

So its out, now to dismantle. To see the problem look at the other thread re failed Chester Motor.

Colin
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